3.4 swap q?
 

Me and a friend are doing the swap right now on my 1994 4Runner V6 but I have read from somewhere that the a/c would not work if so has anyone here been able to get it to work? Need info or tips to make it work since eventually the warm/hot weather is closing in and I would need it.

Thanks in advance.

You need the electronic card from the 3.4L A/C cooling unit located behind the glove box in the donor vehicle. With the 3.0L configuration the card receives a signal from the negative side of the ignition, in order to work now it will now need to receive a positive signal from the ECU instead. You will need Toyota wiring diagrams to figure this one out.

Just so you know.

Voltage Differences Require Use Of The 3.0L Oil Pressure Sender To Prevent Damage to 3.0L Gauge. Or you can use the 3.4L gauge. Some people claim to not have a problem but more than not have fried the stock gauge.

Yotaman, I had the wiring harness made by ORS; so would I still need to install the 3.4L gauge and also replace the A/C electronic card? Someone gave me a tip on installing a 10K resistor at the back of the 3.0 speedo and that should make that speedo work.

Also, where do you install the oil pressure sender? Sorry, if I had to ask for guidance.

Thanks.

Chard

I don't know much about the ORS stuff. The speedo should work fine without any mods. I was talking about the oil guage.

Even using the ORS harness I'd think you'd still need to change the A/C card. I'd give ORS a call and ask them about it.

Will a 3.4 hook up directly to the tranny in a 91 that has the 3.0? Is there a big difference between the two as far as gas milage or power?

Jack

The 3.4 will hook up to the R150 (5 speed) trans that's behind the 3.0. I don't know about the auto.

I'm not sure about mileage but I'd think the 3.4 will get better mileage than the 3.0. The 3.4 has 40 more HP than the 3.0 so it does have more power.

I installed a 3.4 into my 94 4 runner and was able to make my ac work without the 3.4 ac card. I have forgotten how I wired it but it wasn't that hard. I believe the main thing is to wire the tach signal from the igniter to the 3.0 ac card.

I have to look into that one. BTW, what size wire did you use?

Also, with this swap, I am doing a 5spd (R150F) swap. I have read a few links but with a Supra and would like to know if others have better views on this one. I am interested to find more info on the pedals swap as well as what circuit mods were done for the rear brakes and back-up lights to work.

Thanks.
Chard

Manson, do you have any other info that you could share? Thanks.

Chard

This is the same exact swap I have performed. As far as the manual tranny swap, the brake lights have a swith above the brake pedal so when you swap the pedal cluster just put the swaitch from the auto cluster onto the manual cluster. When you do you swap get the 4wd and reverse light wires from a manual tranny. Just hook these to your 4wd and reverse wires coming from your harness or ecu.

As far as the A/c I haven't recharged mine but when I cut it on to check it sounded like it was working. I used the 3.4 compressor but didn't swap the card. The tach mod is easy. Do a search cause someone has the pic of exactly where to solder on the resister. The resistor goes on the back of the tach but be careful not to move the needle out of adjustment cause the reading will be wrong. You'll just have to reset it by turning it back to 0.
The 3.4 should give you better gas mileage unless your heavy on the pedal and the HP and torque is very noticeable over the 3.0. You also have the option of getting more!!!

Hektikwon, thanks for those great tips.

What about for the auto to manual pedal cluster swap and also for the shifter, do you have something that you have followed to do it? I am
confused on which ones to remove and those that needs to be removed since there are lots of stuffs underneath the panel of the steering wheel.

Thanks in advance.

Does the exhaust require much modification to go from 3.0 to 3.4? What about the motor mounts? I found a 3.4 at a salvage yard with 82000 miles and 190 lbs of compression for $1100. Does that sound like a good price?

Jack

I am planning to let an exhaust shop do this part. As far as what I have read from others, the 3.0 motor mounts would also work for the 3.4. I dont know what a good or great price for the 3.4 since some people have gotten all of the parts in the same donor truck unlike for me that I have to fish out a few more parts like the emission parts.

Hey Manson,
Did you buy the ORS kit for your conversion?

Jack

Hey RBA. Just remove all the padding around the pedal cluster and you will see the scews holding the cluster in place. If you look at you pedal cluster you will notice a hole to the left of the brake pedal. Also there may be a small hole on each side of the big hole but I can't remember. Use these holes as a template for drilling through your firewall. Watch out for you cruise contol if you have one. Take the whole cluster out with the brake pedal attached.The manual cluster bolts up the same way as the auto does and if you have the holes predrilled then it will slide right in and the master cylinder will go right on. The clutch line fasteners are already under your hood, as you will see. For the shifters, you will need to trim the floor a little so that there is enough space for them to come into the cab. Get the plate, boot leatherette, and plastic that the leatherette fits in and attaches to the center console. Don't worry about the wires that hooked to the auto shifter. Also don't throw anything away until you are finished.

Thanks Hektikwon for those tips.

Chard

Yeah what are people doing for the exhaust part. I just fitted my 5vzfe into my truck today. All I have left is exhaust and finding the right engine wiring harness to complete my swap......I think.

I wired everything myself. A little more work but a lot cheaper than buying the harness. I didn't take many notes or pictures when doing my swap and its been a while so I have forgotten most the specifics about the swap. Otherwise I would be able to help more. Sorry :dunno:

For the exhaust part of the swap you have a couple of options. 1) You can buy the crossover pipe from ORS and install it onto the stock manifolds. 2) Buy headers fort he 3.4 and then take it to an exhaust shop and have them re-route the exhaust for you. There are some things you need to look for in order to clear everything under there. 3) If you know how to weld and are good with your hands, make your own cross over.

By now I'm sure you get the idea of all the options. It all depends on how much money you are willing to spend. Also search. Tons of info out there....