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3.0 missing,poor idle,strong exhaust smell

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Old 12-07-2010, 04:54 PM
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3.0 missing,poor idle,strong exhaust smell

Hello all,

need some help. i have a 89 1 ton dually yota with a flatbed auto trans 3.0 engine. it's missing at idle and i'm pretty sure it's flooding, has a really strong exhaust smell and sucks gas.

i replaced the plugs,wires and cap plus rotor button today and it didn't really help. the old plugs were black like gas flooding. i don't know where to look to fix the problem anyone have any ideas what it could be?

it starts good and all but it is sputtering and missing at idle and right off idle and sometimes when taking off it shakes when accelerating like it's flooding.

thanks
Old 12-07-2010, 05:39 PM
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Cold start injector and cold start injector time switch.
Coolent temp sensor.
Fuel pressure regulator.
Old 12-07-2010, 05:56 PM
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does the coolant sensor work the temp gauge? if so that is working.
Old 12-07-2010, 06:13 PM
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No, there is a temp sender that works your gauge. The ECT( engine coolent temp sensor) tells the ECM( computer) what your coolent temp is and uses this info to adjust your injector on time ,also has a hand in your cold start injector operation. The ECT is considerd a master sensor and controls many other aspects of engine operation.
Old 12-08-2010, 10:04 AM
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Hey my truck does the samething but it is a 22r carbed
Old 12-08-2010, 01:59 PM
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alright changed the coolant temp sensor, no change. also switched out the mass airflow meter and still no change. which one do you guys recomend that i change next?
Old 12-08-2010, 03:11 PM
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Dont just change them, test them first. You have to test the whole circuit, the problem could be in the part , wiring , connector.
Cold start injector and time switch.
Fuel pressure and regulator.
Old 12-08-2010, 04:08 PM
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i dont know how to test them. can you give me a little insight on what needs to be tested next? i'm thinking maybe the pressure regulator.
Old 12-08-2010, 05:39 PM
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Unbolt your CSI from the plenum, but leave the electrical connector and fuel line hooked up to it. Place the CSI in a jar and turn the ignition switch to on. Look at the CSI in the jar - if it is seeping fuel you more than likely just found your problem.

The CSI is supposed to spray briefly at start up, then quit. If if keeps seeping fuel, you wind up with a flooded condition, it runs crazy rich, barely holds idle and the exhaust smells like gas.

This is a really easy thing to rule in or out and thus a good place to start.
Old 12-08-2010, 05:53 PM
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does the truck need to be cold or warmed up when i do it?
Old 12-08-2010, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrenchinjoe
Unbolt your CSI from the plenum, but leave the electrical connector and fuel line hooked up to it. Place the CSI in a jar and turn the ignition switch to on. Look at the CSI in the jar - if it is seeping fuel you more than likely just found your problem.

The CSI is supposed to spray briefly at start up, then quit. If if keeps seeping fuel, you wind up with a flooded condition, it runs crazy rich, barely holds idle and the exhaust smells like gas.

This is a really easy thing to rule in or out and thus a good place to start.


Wish I knew that when I had my 3.0 and it made it test as a gross polluter! Is it pretty common for that to go bad?
Old 12-08-2010, 08:40 PM
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If you suspect its not opening, ( not your case) then you want to test it when its cold,
It should shut off right after starting 10 seconds or less. Warming it up is fine. You want to give the time switch enough time to heat up and turn the injector off. Then test it as described above.There are manuals for just about every year truck on this site. They will give you all the test procedures.

Last edited by sam333; 12-08-2010 at 08:46 PM.
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