2wd suspension questions
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2wd suspension questions
Alright, I know it isn't the most popular, but some of us don't have 4wd. Mine is a '95.
After owning this truck for a decade, and a decade of it carrying around my fat ass, the front suspension was getting a little saggy. Especially on the driver's (left) side. Hence, the reason for mentioning my fat ass.
I read the FSM about how to adjust the torsion bars, got under the truck and got to wrenchin'. After a few tries of tightening the adjusting nut, lowering the truck from the jack stands, jacking back up and tightening some more, I got it pretty close to level.
First off, the FSM gives the height to measure the 2wd suspension for ground clearance, but doesn't say *where* to measure it from. So, will "eyeballing" it be OK? For the past little while the front of the truck sagged to the point that it almost looked like I had a flat tire if observing the truck from across a parking lot, so anything is better at this point.
Secondly, I don't think I over tightened the adjusting nut, but after several turns(5-10 full turns), I got worried that it might bottom out the nut causing undue stress to the torsion bar. Is it possible to snap off the stud from the anchor arm? Is it possible to put too much stress of the torsion bar adjusting it in this manner? Anyone think I'll actually break something?
After owning this truck for a decade, and a decade of it carrying around my fat ass, the front suspension was getting a little saggy. Especially on the driver's (left) side. Hence, the reason for mentioning my fat ass.
I read the FSM about how to adjust the torsion bars, got under the truck and got to wrenchin'. After a few tries of tightening the adjusting nut, lowering the truck from the jack stands, jacking back up and tightening some more, I got it pretty close to level.
First off, the FSM gives the height to measure the 2wd suspension for ground clearance, but doesn't say *where* to measure it from. So, will "eyeballing" it be OK? For the past little while the front of the truck sagged to the point that it almost looked like I had a flat tire if observing the truck from across a parking lot, so anything is better at this point.
Secondly, I don't think I over tightened the adjusting nut, but after several turns(5-10 full turns), I got worried that it might bottom out the nut causing undue stress to the torsion bar. Is it possible to snap off the stud from the anchor arm? Is it possible to put too much stress of the torsion bar adjusting it in this manner? Anyone think I'll actually break something?
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yes, you can bottom the adjuster out. yes, you can break things. yes, tightening the bars causes more stress on the bar- and considering the bar has already been stressed (which is why it's sagging) adding more stress isn't anything more than a temp solution.
measure each side from the ground to the lip of the fender (just above the front tire) and adjust the low side to match the high side. occasionally measure the higher side and if it starts going up, lower that side back to the original reading.
keep an eye on the rear too since raising a front corner will cause the opposite rear corner to drop.
if you cannot get both front heights to match each other, and also have the rear heights match each other as well, your frame may be twisted
also, for less than 300, you can replace the torsion bars.
measure each side from the ground to the lip of the fender (just above the front tire) and adjust the low side to match the high side. occasionally measure the higher side and if it starts going up, lower that side back to the original reading.
keep an eye on the rear too since raising a front corner will cause the opposite rear corner to drop.
if you cannot get both front heights to match each other, and also have the rear heights match each other as well, your frame may be twisted
also, for less than 300, you can replace the torsion bars.
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Thanks for the input, I'll be getting some new torsion bars on there as soon as the cash flow allows. For right now I was just seeing how much adjusting it could accomplish, hopefully without damage.
That brings up another question though, is it that easy to twist/bend the frame on these trucks? It's never been in a serious accident, but I have hit my share of speed bumps and pot holes.
That brings up another question though, is it that easy to twist/bend the frame on these trucks? It's never been in a serious accident, but I have hit my share of speed bumps and pot holes.
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yes, you can bottom the adjuster out. yes, you can break things. yes, tightening the bars causes more stress on the bar- and considering the bar has already been stressed (which is why it's sagging) adding more stress isn't anything more than a temp solution.
measure each side from the ground to the lip of the fender (just above the front tire) and adjust the low side to match the high side. occasionally measure the higher side and if it starts going up, lower that side back to the original reading.
keep an eye on the rear too since raising a front corner will cause the opposite rear corner to drop.
if you cannot get both front heights to match each other, and also have the rear heights match each other as well, your frame may be twisted
also, for less than 300, you can replace the torsion bars.
measure each side from the ground to the lip of the fender (just above the front tire) and adjust the low side to match the high side. occasionally measure the higher side and if it starts going up, lower that side back to the original reading.
keep an eye on the rear too since raising a front corner will cause the opposite rear corner to drop.
if you cannot get both front heights to match each other, and also have the rear heights match each other as well, your frame may be twisted
also, for less than 300, you can replace the torsion bars.
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Thanks for the input, I'll be getting some new torsion bars on there as soon as the cash flow allows. For right now I was just seeing how much adjusting it could accomplish, hopefully without damage.
That brings up another question though, is it that easy to twist/bend the frame on these trucks? It's never been in a serious accident, but I have hit my share of speed bumps and pot holes.
That brings up another question though, is it that easy to twist/bend the frame on these trucks? It's never been in a serious accident, but I have hit my share of speed bumps and pot holes.
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Also....this is what downey says...
A WORD ABOUT TORSION BARS
NHK manufactured the Torsion Bars your Toyota was equipped with at the factory. NHK bars are “forged” to produce stronger splines and have longer life with excellent memory (always knowing where home base is). Downey’s upgraded bars are also “forged” by NHK - sweet deal. What’s the option? American made “machined” bars with weaker splines and practically no memory whatsoever. Machined bars are the ones that lose an inch of lift every time you go wheelin, the ones you keep re-cranking until the day they finally snap! You wanna buy non-Downey bars, just make sure your cell phone works in the desert.
A WORD ABOUT TORSION BARS
NHK manufactured the Torsion Bars your Toyota was equipped with at the factory. NHK bars are “forged” to produce stronger splines and have longer life with excellent memory (always knowing where home base is). Downey’s upgraded bars are also “forged” by NHK - sweet deal. What’s the option? American made “machined” bars with weaker splines and practically no memory whatsoever. Machined bars are the ones that lose an inch of lift every time you go wheelin, the ones you keep re-cranking until the day they finally snap! You wanna buy non-Downey bars, just make sure your cell phone works in the desert.
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Thanks for the input, I'll be getting some new torsion bars on there as soon as the cash flow allows. For right now I was just seeing how much adjusting it could accomplish, hopefully without damage.
That brings up another question though, is it that easy to twist/bend the frame on these trucks? It's never been in a serious accident, but I have hit my share of speed bumps and pot holes.
That brings up another question though, is it that easy to twist/bend the frame on these trucks? It's never been in a serious accident, but I have hit my share of speed bumps and pot holes.
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Also....this is what downey says...
A WORD ABOUT TORSION BARS
NHK manufactured the Torsion Bars your Toyota was equipped with at the factory. NHK bars are “forged” to produce stronger splines and have longer life with excellent memory (always knowing where home base is). Downey’s upgraded bars are also “forged” by NHK - sweet deal. What’s the option? American made “machined” bars with weaker splines and practically no memory whatsoever. Machined bars are the ones that lose an inch of lift every time you go wheelin, the ones you keep re-cranking until the day they finally snap! You wanna buy non-Downey bars, just make sure your cell phone works in the desert.
A WORD ABOUT TORSION BARS
NHK manufactured the Torsion Bars your Toyota was equipped with at the factory. NHK bars are “forged” to produce stronger splines and have longer life with excellent memory (always knowing where home base is). Downey’s upgraded bars are also “forged” by NHK - sweet deal. What’s the option? American made “machined” bars with weaker splines and practically no memory whatsoever. Machined bars are the ones that lose an inch of lift every time you go wheelin, the ones you keep re-cranking until the day they finally snap! You wanna buy non-Downey bars, just make sure your cell phone works in the desert.
Isn't Downey "american made"?
Last edited by abecedarian; 06-14-2008 at 09:24 PM.
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I'd buy springs or torsion bars from Suspension Techniques before I'd ever buy anything Downey recommends.
Can we also add that if NHK was so good, why do Toyota torsion bars sag?
Can we also add that if NHK was so good, why do Toyota torsion bars sag?
Last edited by abecedarian; 06-14-2008 at 09:42 PM.
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