2nd Generation Auto to Manual Tansmission Swap
02-27-2006, 07:28 PM
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2nd Generation Auto to Manual Tansmission Swap
Hello, I'm new to the forum and have been searching answers on possibly doing an automatic to 5 spd swap. I got a good deal on a 94 4runner 3.0V6 with 86k, all the goodies and thought I could live with the automatic but I'm just a "stick" kind of guy.
Since I'm finding very little in my research, I'm starting to wonder if the swap is just cost prohibited. If not, aside from mounting the new pedal assembly and extra odds and ins (I would find a donor vehicle), what are some other problems that I should expect to encounter? I would plan on keeping the 3.0. Any info would be great. Thanks!
Since I'm finding very little in my research, I'm starting to wonder if the swap is just cost prohibited. If not, aside from mounting the new pedal assembly and extra odds and ins (I would find a donor vehicle), what are some other problems that I should expect to encounter? I would plan on keeping the 3.0. Any info would be great. Thanks!
03-09-2006, 07:02 PM
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Not a bad idea Doug. I'm in Washington state. Let's see...3hrs to Vancouver, 15 hours to Banff, another 1-2 to Calgary??? I haven't been there since Oct 1990 
03-10-2006, 07:23 AM
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Why can't you stand having a 5-speed in traffic? Driving my dad's 6-speed cummins (where its really easy to skip gears accidentally) in traffic is a real chore compared to the 5speed...
03-10-2006, 09:58 PM
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Calgary is only between Banff and Washington State if I head east through the US, north to Calgary and then double back west. I just checked the map. I didn't think that the Rockies had moved since 1990.
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03-12-2006, 06:12 AM
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I have not completed the swap yet but I am planning on doing it in the next few weeks. One of the first things I realized that I should have done is get a donor vehicle. I just started collecting parts from here and there and ended up with no bolts to put anything together. The bolts are not very easy to obtain especially if you have no idea what size they are. But you said you wil be getting a donor so that is a good idea.
The second thing I should have done is buy the slave and master clutch cylinders new. Instead I got them cheap and bought the rebuild kits for them. This is just too much effort spent on a cheap part. I am using the used master but I finally just bought a new slave from Marlin. They have them for $30. I also got a nice clutch kit from them.
You will have to drill holes into the firewall for the clutch master. You will have to replace the brake pedal with the pedal assembly that has clutch and brake pedal. You will also have to cut the floor pan to accomodate the shifters if you have 4 wheel drive.
As far as cost goes, I have spent $900 on parts and am only lacking a few bolts and minor stuff. It was not cost prohibitive for me because it was either rebuild my auto or switch to a manual. Switch to a manual will be cheaper since I can do it myself.
These links have helped me out a lot when planning this project:
http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/s...ue#Post1262965
http://www.junglecode.com/toyota/tacoma/transmission/
I will tell you more when I get farther along in the project.
The second thing I should have done is buy the slave and master clutch cylinders new. Instead I got them cheap and bought the rebuild kits for them. This is just too much effort spent on a cheap part. I am using the used master but I finally just bought a new slave from Marlin. They have them for $30. I also got a nice clutch kit from them.
You will have to drill holes into the firewall for the clutch master. You will have to replace the brake pedal with the pedal assembly that has clutch and brake pedal. You will also have to cut the floor pan to accomodate the shifters if you have 4 wheel drive.
As far as cost goes, I have spent $900 on parts and am only lacking a few bolts and minor stuff. It was not cost prohibitive for me because it was either rebuild my auto or switch to a manual. Switch to a manual will be cheaper since I can do it myself.
These links have helped me out a lot when planning this project:
http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/s...ue#Post1262965
http://www.junglecode.com/toyota/tacoma/transmission/
I will tell you more when I get farther along in the project.
03-12-2006, 01:01 PM
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Schooler, finally some useful information! Thanks for the links too. Do you know if it will requires any modication to the driveline or do the lengths and yokes match up? Once again...working with a 94 4runner. Thanks.
Last edited by sprocket_jim; 03-12-2006 at 01:18 PM.
03-12-2006, 04:44 PM
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Driveline: Well that's what I'm about to find out. I'm sure that I'll get mine done before you so I'll let you know. Or maybe someone could measure their manual driveshaft w/4 wheel drive and that would help me out.
03-22-2006, 04:06 AM
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Getting back into this discussion: I check on the driveshafts. The front ones are the same ( of course I have 4 wheel drive and this will make a difference as to what I am saying) so no need to replace the front drive shaft. The rear one however is a different length. The length for the m/t is 48" and the auto is just under 47". The auto will extend to 48" but it loses a lot of grip and there is play in the shaft. Just to be safe, I bought a 48" shaft for m/t for $50. After I do the swap I'm going to bolt up the original drive shaft and see how comfortable I feel with it before I decide if I need to switch to the longer one.
03-23-2006, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sprocket_jim
Hello, I'm new to the forum and have been searching answers on possibly doing an automatic to 5 spd swap. I got a good deal on a 94 4runner 3.0V6 with 86k, all the goodies and thought I could live with the automatic but I'm just a "stick" kind of guy.
Since I'm finding very little in my research, I'm starting to wonder if the swap is just cost prohibited. If not, aside from mounting the new pedal assembly and extra odds and ins (I would find a donor vehicle), what are some other problems that I should expect to encounter? I would plan on keeping the 3.0. Any info would be great. Thanks!
Since I'm finding very little in my research, I'm starting to wonder if the swap is just cost prohibited. If not, aside from mounting the new pedal assembly and extra odds and ins (I would find a donor vehicle), what are some other problems that I should expect to encounter? I would plan on keeping the 3.0. Any info would be great. Thanks!
don't forget to put a pilot bushing in the back of the crankshaft before you install the manual tranny
03-24-2006, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Turboz
don't forget to put a pilot bushing in the back of the crankshaft before you install the manual tranny
03-24-2006, 07:52 AM
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a 3vze with a flexplate setup has no pilot bearing in the end of the crank shaft. after you have pulled the flex plate off and bolted on the flywheel youll need to put a small bearing in the end of the crank shaft. It "holds" the end of the imput shaft on the man trans.
youll need a clutch alignment tool (well most people use one)
ive pondered this quite a bit myself and am clear about everything you mentioned but the spedo cable. I DONT think they are the same for a auto vs a 5spd.
the doner vehical is about the ONLY way to go IMO. you get the shifters, boots, hydrolic lines for the master-slave clutch, peddle setups, clutch cancel button (should you choose to use it) pluss i think youll have to figure out what to do with the nutral safty switch wireing. you may just be able to jumper it ....i dont know... also remember that theres a bunch of electronics that tell the ADD axle that you want to be in 4wd (ie youve pulled the lever down) and actuate the disconnect. Somewere in there there is also the wireing for the light on the dash. (again if you care about it) This is why a donor truck would be best because at the same time you can swap out to MAN hubs and non-ADD front axle. (but you still have wireing to F with to make the lights and everythign work right, i think)
conversly if you FROM a 5speed your gonna need a trans ECU and a BUNCH of extra wireing for all kinds of stuff. A340H was the auto in the 2nd gens. Again donor vehical would be about the ONLY way to go. It would be a MUCH harder swap to go from 5spd to an auto IMO
youll need a clutch alignment tool (well most people use one)
ive pondered this quite a bit myself and am clear about everything you mentioned but the spedo cable. I DONT think they are the same for a auto vs a 5spd.
the doner vehical is about the ONLY way to go IMO. you get the shifters, boots, hydrolic lines for the master-slave clutch, peddle setups, clutch cancel button (should you choose to use it) pluss i think youll have to figure out what to do with the nutral safty switch wireing. you may just be able to jumper it ....i dont know... also remember that theres a bunch of electronics that tell the ADD axle that you want to be in 4wd (ie youve pulled the lever down) and actuate the disconnect. Somewere in there there is also the wireing for the light on the dash. (again if you care about it) This is why a donor truck would be best because at the same time you can swap out to MAN hubs and non-ADD front axle. (but you still have wireing to F with to make the lights and everythign work right, i think)
conversly if you FROM a 5speed your gonna need a trans ECU and a BUNCH of extra wireing for all kinds of stuff. A340H was the auto in the 2nd gens. Again donor vehical would be about the ONLY way to go. It would be a MUCH harder swap to go from 5spd to an auto IMO
Last edited by snap-on; 03-24-2006 at 07:58 AM.
03-27-2006, 09:00 AM
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Yeah, you will need a new rear driveshaft.
I did the swap a couple of months ago from a 92 5Spd Ext Cap Pickup to an 89 Auto 4Runner. I had bought the 92 as a donor and I put the motor and tranny in as a whole so I didn't have to mess with flexplate and such. Drilling the hole in the firewall for the Clutch MC was no big deal, I used my 14v cordless and a 1" hole saw... just remember measure three+ times and cut once
Cutting for the shift levers wasn't too big of a deal either, I just used some tin snips...
I didn't know I would need a new driveshaft so I had everything all done and realized my other one wouldn't work. I found one from a guy on here though from an 88 Manual... just a note the bolt pattern from the 88 to 89-92+ is different but changing the ujoints isn't that big of a deal...
Good luck with the swap! Myself, I am very satisfied! Better acceleration, I feel like I am more in control of the truck and I even get a little better gas mileage...
I did the swap a couple of months ago from a 92 5Spd Ext Cap Pickup to an 89 Auto 4Runner. I had bought the 92 as a donor and I put the motor and tranny in as a whole so I didn't have to mess with flexplate and such. Drilling the hole in the firewall for the Clutch MC was no big deal, I used my 14v cordless and a 1" hole saw... just remember measure three+ times and cut once
Cutting for the shift levers wasn't too big of a deal either, I just used some tin snips...
I didn't know I would need a new driveshaft so I had everything all done and realized my other one wouldn't work. I found one from a guy on here though from an 88 Manual... just a note the bolt pattern from the 88 to 89-92+ is different but changing the ujoints isn't that big of a deal...
Good luck with the swap! Myself, I am very satisfied! Better acceleration, I feel like I am more in control of the truck and I even get a little better gas mileage...
10-30-2011, 03:07 PM
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A340 to R150 swap
Hey. Sorry to bring a zombie thread back to life, but for the life of me I can't find what I need with the search. (Sorry google, don't need to buy the domain "transmissionswap.com".) /endofrant
When you did this, how did you handle the connections electrically? I've spent a few days going ovr the schematics, and as an example, I don't want to just jumper pin5&6 on the autotranny plug (that would disable the cruise control). forgot what i found on the speedmeter, know that was different. Also, wanna keep backup lights.
I know other stuff like the ADD and no-add, are the same for both. Also figure I can just take the clutch switch and interupt the A/T ground wire from the IB3 connector (so i don't jump into adjacent cars at startup).
Anyone with hints, thanks in advance.
When you did this, how did you handle the connections electrically? I've spent a few days going ovr the schematics, and as an example, I don't want to just jumper pin5&6 on the autotranny plug (that would disable the cruise control). forgot what i found on the speedmeter, know that was different. Also, wanna keep backup lights.
I know other stuff like the ADD and no-add, are the same for both. Also figure I can just take the clutch switch and interupt the A/T ground wire from the IB3 connector (so i don't jump into adjacent cars at startup).
Anyone with hints, thanks in advance.
10-30-2011, 10:03 PM
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He kept the black control box from the auto shifter and jumpered the two white wires from the harness there. As for the rest of it he uses the factory manual plugs for the backup lights, 4wd indicator, and neutral safety from the donor manual transmission by splicing them in. On his, he also converted everything to manual, including pulling the solenoid wires all the way back into the cabin and sealing them off. For the solenoid plugs he either just cuts them, folds them back on themselves and seals them up like Toyota does, or removes the wiring from the non-body side (read transmission side) of the assembly, plugs them up, puts them onto the harness from the body and also seals and tucks them up. Both his and mine are still ran by the auto computer and he simply pulled the O/D trouble light bulb from the dash to keep it from flashing.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51238778
Last edited by KelleyC; 10-30-2011 at 10:05 PM.
10-30-2011, 10:07 PM
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Found it! 
LOL< don't follow his entire build though, he took a 2wd Auto and went full bore.
The two white wires I mentioned (as he does) that get spliced to keep cruise are in the little blue connector just on the left side of the control box. I'm still not sire if ths applies to a vacuum style cruise control system or just the electric one's since both of ours are electric.
LOL< don't follow his entire build though, he took a 2wd Auto and went full bore. The two white wires I mentioned (as he does) that get spliced to keep cruise are in the little blue connector just on the left side of the control box. I'm still not sire if ths applies to a vacuum style cruise control system or just the electric one's since both of ours are electric.
Originally Posted by NorCalBorn
en you pull out the auto transmission (this also applies to the 4wd autos) there are two specific things needing to be done with the 5 speed swap, beyond the wires in the underbody connection. You need to pull the neutral switch bypass black box off of the auto shifter itself. This is easily identified as the little black box that's just under the forward right spot of the shifter that the brown sheathed wires and shift over ride detent goes into. You'll also want to pull the connector and wires that go to the O/D button, in fact, cut off the wires closest to the button itself. You'll see the brown sheathed wires as well as the little black box in this picture. The blue connector w/ the two white wires you'll need to splice or jumper I discuss is on the left side (barely visable). The other wires on the blue plug (green/white and green/yellow) can be left open.
The two white wires on the blue connector within the shifter console from the connection to the shifter get spliced, you make sure the ECT is in the off position, and pull the switch from the connection. Solder and tape up the two white wires. If you were to turn on the ignition now the ECT CEL on the dash will be blinking rapidly indicating a "No Signal" condition which is what you want. Pull out the gauge panel and remove the ECT CEL Bulb, you won't be needing it anymore from here. In my case I moved it and the clip it came with into the empty spot on my dash so I'd have a 4wd indicator. IIRC I also had to run the positive wire (green/white) for it from the 4wd switch on the transmission to the big blue connector at the back of the gauge cluster (Plug C11, either spot 7 or 8 depending on how your 2wd is wired) and a ground wire (white/black) to a point on the steel dash brace to get the light to come on.
Now to get the vehicle running. From here on in it's just a matter of installing the pedal assembly, drilling a hole in the firewall, running the clutch master, and tearing into the big white gang plug for the transmission containing the main 6 wires. You need to run the two thick black wires from the neutral safety switch (one w/ a white stripe and the other w/ a yellow stripe, or in the case of mine being a 2wd one w/ the yellow stripe and the other having a red stripe) into the lower clutch switch assembly so you don't accidentally start the vehicle while in gear. I didn't bother to install a clutch cancel switch because honestly I've never needed one before and I don't need it for this. IMHO here, don't simply plug a pair of male spade plugs into the gang plug as it's likely you'll never want to go back to an automatic ever again after all you've done to get this far. You'll want to use good quality wiring, and only drop in size one or two levels, or the amperage will fry the splice. Then run the two wires for the reverse lights (red/white and black/white) to the sensor on the side of the transmission and clean everything up. Leave the separate ECU that is for the automatic where it is fully intact and if you choose to do like I did, go ahead and clip off the wires for the auto solenoids. Grab some plasticoat, and like the factory does with some of the pigtails under the hood, fold them back on themselves and stick a clear sealing tip on them followed by a good quality heat-shrink to keep things watertight. They don't hang down and can stay where they are.
The two white wires on the blue connector within the shifter console from the connection to the shifter get spliced, you make sure the ECT is in the off position, and pull the switch from the connection. Solder and tape up the two white wires. If you were to turn on the ignition now the ECT CEL on the dash will be blinking rapidly indicating a "No Signal" condition which is what you want. Pull out the gauge panel and remove the ECT CEL Bulb, you won't be needing it anymore from here. In my case I moved it and the clip it came with into the empty spot on my dash so I'd have a 4wd indicator. IIRC I also had to run the positive wire (green/white) for it from the 4wd switch on the transmission to the big blue connector at the back of the gauge cluster (Plug C11, either spot 7 or 8 depending on how your 2wd is wired) and a ground wire (white/black) to a point on the steel dash brace to get the light to come on.
Now to get the vehicle running. From here on in it's just a matter of installing the pedal assembly, drilling a hole in the firewall, running the clutch master, and tearing into the big white gang plug for the transmission containing the main 6 wires. You need to run the two thick black wires from the neutral safety switch (one w/ a white stripe and the other w/ a yellow stripe, or in the case of mine being a 2wd one w/ the yellow stripe and the other having a red stripe) into the lower clutch switch assembly so you don't accidentally start the vehicle while in gear. I didn't bother to install a clutch cancel switch because honestly I've never needed one before and I don't need it for this. IMHO here, don't simply plug a pair of male spade plugs into the gang plug as it's likely you'll never want to go back to an automatic ever again after all you've done to get this far. You'll want to use good quality wiring, and only drop in size one or two levels, or the amperage will fry the splice. Then run the two wires for the reverse lights (red/white and black/white) to the sensor on the side of the transmission and clean everything up. Leave the separate ECU that is for the automatic where it is fully intact and if you choose to do like I did, go ahead and clip off the wires for the auto solenoids. Grab some plasticoat, and like the factory does with some of the pigtails under the hood, fold them back on themselves and stick a clear sealing tip on them followed by a good quality heat-shrink to keep things watertight. They don't hang down and can stay where they are.
Last edited by KelleyC; 10-30-2011 at 10:14 PM.
