02-10-2016, 09:25 AM
2nd gen 4runners lift guide
05-11-2012, 09:48 AM
#581
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was thinking the OME 900 (medium's) as they only lift 1.5". I also assume they would outflex the worn out old springs.
For the front I was thinking a 1" BJspacer then torsion bars to match, but I can't find anywhere other than 4crawler that sells them.
Pandhard and LSVP not necessary for such a small drop?
Right now my "checkout" at 4wheelparts shows
2- Skyjacker H7024
2- Skyjacker H7052
Extended rear brake line SKYRBL30
total: $116
With shipping to Canada
$184.00
For the front I was thinking a 1" BJspacer then torsion bars to match, but I can't find anywhere other than 4crawler that sells them.
Pandhard and LSVP not necessary for such a small drop?
Right now my "checkout" at 4wheelparts shows
2- Skyjacker H7024
2- Skyjacker H7052
Extended rear brake line SKYRBL30
total: $116
With shipping to Canada
$184.00
05-11-2012, 09:55 AM
#582
Registered User
I was thinking the OME 900 (medium's) as they only lift 1.5". I also assume they would outflex the worn out old springs.
For the front I was thinking a 1" BJspacer then torsion bars to match, but I can't find anywhere other than 4crawler that sells them.
Pandhard and LSVP not necessary for such a small drop?
Right now my "checkout" at 4wheelparts shows
2- Skyjacker H7024
2- Skyjacker H7052
Extended rear brake line SKYRBL30
total: $116
With shipping to Canada
$184.00
For the front I was thinking a 1" BJspacer then torsion bars to match, but I can't find anywhere other than 4crawler that sells them.
Pandhard and LSVP not necessary for such a small drop?
Right now my "checkout" at 4wheelparts shows
2- Skyjacker H7024
2- Skyjacker H7052
Extended rear brake line SKYRBL30
total: $116
With shipping to Canada
$184.00
Why not throw roger an Email? He'd be able to give you a much better response.
Sales@4Crawler.com
I ordered my brake line from trail-gear... not sure which is cheaper. I believe the smallest spacer made is a 1.5" There was one for sale for 80 bucks + shipping here not too long ago. Lemme find it.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f11/...l-80-a-253381/
Last edited by MaK92-4RnR; 05-11-2012 at 09:56 AM.
05-11-2012, 10:07 AM
#583
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for your help Mak,
RB does make a custom 1" spacer, it is only an extra $20 to get them made. I was hoping to find a place that sold a 1" spacer and OME springs so I could bundle them and save on shipping.
It sucks to live in Canada and get stuck with outrageous shipping costs.
Luckily I live ~30 minutes from the boarder, so I will probably just get stuff shipped to Washington and go down a pick it up.
RB does make a custom 1" spacer, it is only an extra $20 to get them made. I was hoping to find a place that sold a 1" spacer and OME springs so I could bundle them and save on shipping.
It sucks to live in Canada and get stuck with outrageous shipping costs.
Luckily I live ~30 minutes from the boarder, so I will probably just get stuff shipped to Washington and go down a pick it up.
05-11-2012, 10:51 AM
#584
Registered User
Thanks for your help Mak,
RB does make a custom 1" spacer, it is only an extra $20 to get them made. I was hoping to find a place that sold a 1" spacer and OME springs so I could bundle them and save on shipping.
It sucks to live in Canada and get stuck with outrageous shipping costs.
Luckily I live ~30 minutes from the boarder, so I will probably just get stuff shipped to Washington and go down a pick it up.
RB does make a custom 1" spacer, it is only an extra $20 to get them made. I was hoping to find a place that sold a 1" spacer and OME springs so I could bundle them and save on shipping.
It sucks to live in Canada and get stuck with outrageous shipping costs.
Luckily I live ~30 minutes from the boarder, so I will probably just get stuff shipped to Washington and go down a pick it up.
I'd just go with the 1.5" and relax the bars. you'll get a soft suspension this way and if you decide to go higher, you can just crank the bars.
05-12-2012, 11:13 AM
#585
Registered User
If you're trying to save money and not lift it very much, I think I'd go with rear spacers if I were you. I still have my OME 900's around, and plan to use them in the rear when I do a lowest lift possible sas, but I'm pretty sure where they get that 1.75" of lift number is from stock height, not sagged after 20 years height. My adding weight to the front of mine with a just a Marlin bumper made it so I couldn't keep the front level with the rear unless I had about 800 pounds of stuff in the back. I now have 1.5" spacers in the front with the bars relaxed a little for smooth ride and 1.25" Daystar spacers in the rear. It's just enough to keep off the bumpstops and the stock springs can still haul some weight. Not too long ago, I had 2 complete rear axles, a complete front, a set of 4 lift springs for my '83, 2 front and 1 rear driveshaft, a radiator, and some miscellaneous trim pieces in the back of my Runner, and it was still an inch or so off the rear bumpstops.
This is my stance as of now, with survival/camping stuff I always have in there and one of the complete rear axles still in the back cause I haven't delivered it to my buddy yet
This is my stance as of now, with survival/camping stuff I always have in there and one of the complete rear axles still in the back cause I haven't delivered it to my buddy yet
08-02-2012, 02:23 PM
#589
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: imperial valley, ca
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am new to the 4runner scene. so I have 2 questions 1 can you run tacoma suspensions on the front of 4runner and secondly is there any good long travel suspension systems besides total chaos made for desert racing. any help would be much appreciated
08-02-2012, 02:28 PM
#590
Depends on what generation 4Runner you are asking about. Since you are posting on a thread about 2nd gen 4Runners (1990-1995) then no you can't directly use a Tacoma front suspension. The Tacoma front suspension is coil sprung, the 2nd gen 4Runner is torsion bar sprung.
08-02-2012, 02:37 PM
#591
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put the lc coils on the rear, Lspc bracket, pan hard drop bracket, and the bj spacers in the front. Matched it up with 15x10" rims and 33x12.5's. In less than a month i busted 2 cv boots with normal driving. Get the diff spacers if you do this lift. I finished up the ride with a bumper from addicted offroad.
Last edited by pitmaster; 08-02-2012 at 02:38 PM.
08-03-2012, 09:47 PM
#594
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: east wenatchee wa
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Having owned my 4runner for about 7 years now, I have changed the suspension a few times.....here is my history lesson...
When I first bought it, Downey was the only game in town...so I purchased some 1.5" HD coils and cranked the torsion bars to match. It had very little flex, but worked ok for the trails I was running.
Then the ball joint spacers were available from SDORI and I put them on, relaxed the torsion bars to factory specs, and went with 33x10.5 BFG's. It worked great, flexed ok, but the front was a little higher than the rear again.
I then replaced the rear coils with some FJ80 coils, and added a Panhard drop bracket. It worked good, but the truck leaned a little due to the coils being different lengths (that is how they are). So I bough another set and used both long side coils.
I ran that setup for quite a while, until the upper control arm bushings gave me issues...I ditched the IFS and completed an axle swap up front. For the rear I have basically the stock configuration with the exception of adjustable upper links, adjustable panhard bar, and OME 860 springs. Eventually I may swap the rear to leaf springs.
When I first bought it, Downey was the only game in town...so I purchased some 1.5" HD coils and cranked the torsion bars to match. It had very little flex, but worked ok for the trails I was running.
Then the ball joint spacers were available from SDORI and I put them on, relaxed the torsion bars to factory specs, and went with 33x10.5 BFG's. It worked great, flexed ok, but the front was a little higher than the rear again.
I then replaced the rear coils with some FJ80 coils, and added a Panhard drop bracket. It worked good, but the truck leaned a little due to the coils being different lengths (that is how they are). So I bough another set and used both long side coils.
I ran that setup for quite a while, until the upper control arm bushings gave me issues...I ditched the IFS and completed an axle swap up front. For the rear I have basically the stock configuration with the exception of adjustable upper links, adjustable panhard bar, and OME 860 springs. Eventually I may swap the rear to leaf springs.
08-03-2012, 09:55 PM
#595
Registered User
08-03-2012, 10:45 PM
#596
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: east wenatchee wa
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-05-2012, 09:49 PM
#597
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: east wenatchee wa
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put the lc coils on the rear, Lspc bracket, pan hard drop bracket, and the bj spacers in the front. Matched it up with 15x10" rims and 33x12.5's. In less than a month i busted 2 cv boots with normal driving. Get the diff spacers if you do this lift. I finished up the ride with a bumper from addicted offroad.
08-05-2012, 11:10 PM
#598
A front diff. drop kit can help as will keeping the front ride height as low as you can. The diff drop is really important if you find the CV joints you have are binding at full droop and you can check that doing installation:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ffDropSymptoms
Not all CVs are created equal. Some can handle more angle than others. With the front/outer CVs, they have to handle not only up/down suspension travel but also side-side steering angle. So if you have a set of CVs that can't handle the combination of angles and bind up, things go boom. If the CVs can handle the angles, then they are usually happy. It all depends on how far the grooves that the ball bearings fit into are ground. If you think of the stock height condition, Toyota probably spec'd some many degrees of angularity so that is likely what many CVs are made to operate. But some may have a few extra degrees of grooves machined in. And probably no way to tell which CV joint will work better than another other than finding a pair that last a long time.
But the bigger CV killer is what else you do with the lift. If you do the lift to fit taller tires, that is one factor, bigger tires = more load on the CVs. Then if you are doing the lift and tires for off-roading and you throw in a front locker, that is also more load on the CVs.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ffDropSymptoms
Not all CVs are created equal. Some can handle more angle than others. With the front/outer CVs, they have to handle not only up/down suspension travel but also side-side steering angle. So if you have a set of CVs that can't handle the combination of angles and bind up, things go boom. If the CVs can handle the angles, then they are usually happy. It all depends on how far the grooves that the ball bearings fit into are ground. If you think of the stock height condition, Toyota probably spec'd some many degrees of angularity so that is likely what many CVs are made to operate. But some may have a few extra degrees of grooves machined in. And probably no way to tell which CV joint will work better than another other than finding a pair that last a long time.
But the bigger CV killer is what else you do with the lift. If you do the lift to fit taller tires, that is one factor, bigger tires = more load on the CVs. Then if you are doing the lift and tires for off-roading and you throw in a front locker, that is also more load on the CVs.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 08-06-2012 at 06:50 AM.
08-05-2012, 11:24 PM
#599
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: colorado springs, Co
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CV boots are replaceable and you will still be able to get home. CV boots are also not expensive. $10 ish for a kit.. just a pain to replace. They should last a while if they are fairly new. now you will have a much better chance of snapping the actually CV axle because of the increased angle and larger tires. If you don't have locked diffs you probably will not snap the actual CV axle very often if ever. If you do have locked diffs then you probably will be replacing CV axles. They are fairly inexpensive. I think $60 is about the going rate for one now a days but some of them also include a lifetime warranty so when you do bring it back in a bag they will give you a new one. just don't tell them what you were doing. and even if you do snap them or your CV boot is in pieces you can just turn your hubs to free and drive home and fix it there. if you never want to break anything on the trail you probably shouldn't lift an IFS system, put diff lockers on or put on bigger tires.
08-06-2012, 06:58 AM
#600
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: east wenatchee wa
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanx guys i think i read sumthin about this on a different thread if i am correct if u have the wheel up in air and u are able to turn it freely without feeling grinding or binding the u should be fine right?
