erock13

I have an 86 4runner with a 22re, and it wont start, it will crank and crank but it wont fire, ive checked the spark and theres no spark but i can smell the fuel gettin to the engine.. What happened was the ppl who originally bought it in 1986, had an amp put in under the seat for a stereo system, well I was cleaning it all out and had the seat taken off and decided to just take it out completely.. I tried to get the wire plugs off but they were jus stuck on there, so I jus cut them, figured it wouldnt be a big deal.. Well, I think I was wrong cuz I musta blown somethin real good.. So after I get done with everything, I go to start it up and move it out of the garage, and it wont start.. Then I notice the lighting for the dash doesnt work nor the taillights or sidemarkers.. The dummy lights work, but thats it, even my fuel and temp gauge dont move at all, even though they usually move once its in the on position.. Now, the PO had a button installed on the dash to start it cuz the ignition wouldnt work when you turned it to start, so basically you have to put the key in turn it fully to the on position and press the button to start it.. I checked for any blown fuses and I found one that was to the clock that was blown, and one that idk what its too cuz the panel to the fuse panel is missing, but in replacing both it didnt make a difference.. Ive been on this site practically every night for hours for the past couple months using it as my service manual practically or just for fun, but Ive searched and nothing ive found seems to work or be like mine.. Any thoughts would be appreciated.. I know its gotta be somethin and when I get back from my test tommorrow Ill re check the fuses cuz im missing something.. But idk how lights and the gauge would have anything to do with it starting..

peow130

Check ALL the fuses under the dash.

erock13

Now I know theres a kickpanel down by the floor and theres a fusebox up in the engine compartment, but is there ANY other fuses I should know of or are those it? And for the kickpanel, what fuse or fuses would cause this? That way I can single out which one it could be..

bikedave99

Was the power wires going to the amp fused? If it wasn't and you just cut the wire and it touched the frame you could have had a whole ton of amps going to ground. Like was previously said, check ALL the fuses under the dash, then all the fuses under the hood. There are a number of big slow blow fuses under the hood that would cause what you are talking about. Depending on your vehicle you should have like an 80amp then a 30amp and a 40amp. Check all those closely. Then check the fusible link going from the battery to the fuse block under the hood. It is just a smaller wire crimped inbetween two bigger wires. Hmmm... but first of all check your battery, check to make sure you have at least 12V with no load. You make have had a plate break in your battery. Some ideas...

swampfox

you can also trace the the amp wiring back to where it is hooked to power, and check all the wires close to that point. if it was hooked to the fuse box pull it loose and check the back side for burnt connections or wires.

flecker

Theres the fuse box under the hood, that one is obvious.

Theres the fuse panel just above the drivers kick panel- all your important fuses like the EFI fuse (most likely your prob) and other fuses reside there.

Then there is a fusible link that runs into your main fuse box under the hood.

Dig around in the one by the kick panel first.... most likely the PO ran the power off whatever he could to power his bling bling amp, leaving you stuck w/ the mess.

erock13

none of the fuses in the engine compartment were blown.. and there were a couple in the kickpanel that were and one that was actually melted, which could possibly be it, so im gonna buy some fuses and replace em and see if that solves it.. and the battery reads at 12.44 volts, so i didnt blow a cell..

flecker

The one that was melted was most likely the one the amp was hooked up on and pushing to it's limits over time... then you cut a ht an ground and that was the last straw.

Replace them and move on.

erock13

replaced the blown fuses, now the tails, sidemarkers, and dash lighting work, but it still wont start.. the gauges still dont move at all either.. could it be an ignition thing, like something shorted and its not recognizing its in the on position so its not giving a a spark?

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

I'd unplug and re-plug in the battery. Also i believe there is a fusebox behind the glovebox.

flecker

What fuse was melted?
Look at the cover to identify....

Report back.

Also- is it cranking over, just not starting... just getting a click or what?

Theres a few things that could have shorted....

erock13

I cant tell what fuses they are, the panel was missing from there when i got it and I cant seem to find a diagram in the serv manual.. I tested all the wires that were going to the amp and none of em had voltage either with the key on and off, so its kinda weird.. Ill check behind the glove box too, batteries been disconnected and reconnected a couple times already, and I double checked all the fuses again and none of em are blown still.. And its cranking over, i could crank it all day, but its not starting, I tested the spark yesterday and it wasnt gettin any but Ill check it again once my gf gets home..

1990yota-pickup

why dont you just hook the wires back up you cut in the first place..

erock13

cuz im trying to remove the whole setup and I was partially complete at the time, i had the wires and everything located and was jus gonna cut em and pull em through and disconnect the other ends of em, but i had forgotten to disconnect the power and when i saw a spark jump across when i cut one of the sets off I knew I was in trouble.. Im jus trying to get the wiring back to factory as much as i can..

Armalite

a blown fuse sounds like the problem. I would check them again and make sure it didn't blow the same fuse again after you replaced it. Then i would trace all the wires that you cut and make sure you only cut amp wires and that there are no loose ends causing a short.

In my truck the stupid PO installed an aftermarket alarm system. Lets just say him and wires don't mix well. there are wires tapped into wires and random fuses not to mention electrical tape.... So make sure the PO didn't use a bublegum wrapper to bypass a fuse thats hiding somewhere in the dash.

Good luck bump

erock13

just double checked them all.. None are popped still, including the links.. I keep thinkin theres somethin Im not seein.. And the mechanic who put the stereo in really wired it up good, he had it goin every which way.. It was a PITA gettin through all the tape and the dash though.. Lemme check and make sure all the wires I cut are either out or capped off though.. Does anyone have a diagram or somethin for the fuses by the kickpanel? Or a pic? And what would be the circuit path for the gauges? Im thinkin the lack of gauge movement is tied into the starting problem somehow..

myyota

The reason the previous owner put a push button in to start your 4Runner is because he was to lazy to replace the ignition switch and fix it the right way. When i got my 86 4Runner the previous owner had done the same thing, so i found one at the junk yard and fixed it the correct way. As for your 4Runner not starting, check the ignition fuse under the dash, make sure its good and not coroded. Are you sure that you didn`t cut a wrong wire by mistake ?, try hooking up the wires that you cut one at a time and see if your 4Runner will start.

erock13

its something ive been meaning to replace but havent gotten to it yet.. I didnt really explain it, but with that push button, its wired straight from the battery to the starter, so even with the key out it will still crank like it is now but it wont fire, which is why its leading me to believe its the ignition.. The two local junkyards around me have absolutely NO first gen pickups or runners, so would one from autozone or kragen work?? Ignition fuse is good, even replaced it with a new one jus for the hell of it.. Nothin still..

swampfox

did the alarm system have a ignition kill component?

erock13

honestly, im not sure.. the old alarm that was in it had a little box in the eng compartment which was the siren and its wires were cut off when i got it, and there was a box thing near the kickpanel that was connected which i also soon took off a couple months ago.. but all the wirings still there and its linked way up into the main harness all the way up in the dash and behind the front window vents so i cant get to it.. then a couple of the stereo wires are getting over 130 volts when i tested em with the ign on, but i cant get all the way to em cuz theyre also up in the harness.. ive taken that entire dash apart tryin to get to the source of these wires and theres really nowhere else i can go now.. tommorrow ill try and see if i can get the harness down though.. its becoming a real pain.. would an ignition killswitch cause the gauges not to move as well?