FGZ

I got THIS ONE. It's OEM, too, but I don't know much more about it except that I had some wicked spiking temps when I had the heat on. I probably had an off-the-shelf non-OEM replacement in mine when I was having the spiking problem, so that plus a neglected cooling system were likely plaguing me.

Red Leader

Ahh, the cooling system. I haven't even gotten there yet. I'd love to get new hoses and a new t-stat. When you took off your coolant hoses, did you have any scale-y type stuff in the pipes or hoses? Where the coolant pipe from the timing cover leads into that pipe that goes into the block, I had this really thin paper-like black scale in there. It was weird. I'm not really sure how to flush that stuff out other than load up the system with distilled water and just flush a few cycles through the system.

When you say that LCE t-stat is OE, you meant it originally came on some toyotas? Or maybe they modified an OE t-stat? T-stats scare me since the idea of one locking up and overheating the block are not the most pleasant thought. If the LCE one with the dual stages creates some extra insurance against that, that is well worth the extra $20 or so.

What else have you been replacing on your 22re? I'm thinking dizzy cap, rotor, plugs and wires, idle adjustment screw o-ring, dizzy o-ring, fuel filter and using some BG44k or some type of fuel tx to clean the injectors. I'm always asking this just to make sure there nothing I'm really missing. I plan to do a valve adjustment once its all back together. Maybe clean the TPS and intake? Can't think of too much else. Although I heard that the IAC valve can affect running when its dirty or plugged. I just want to take care of all these things to get it in the best running shape in can be in.

I'll check out that LCE t-stat a little more.

FGZ

Yes the LCE unit is OEM as in made by Toyota with no modifications. Something about the 22RE cooling system made the t-stat very vulnerable to the cold burst of coolant coming from your heater core right after the t-stat opened on a freezing morning. This meant the motor would start warming up as usual, t-stat would open, cold water would hit it, it would close back up, and the temp would really start to climb until the cycle repeated itself a few times. So they had a TSB out for that issue, and developed that dual stage t-stat as a fix. Works great for me. Some folks have fine luck with non-OEM or single stage OEM t-stats, I just went with what I was 95% sure would fix the issue I was seeing. There is a lot more back story on it in the Toyota Bible on Pirate and here on YT, thanks to Roger Brown (4Crawler) who did a big write-up on his site, including PNs, etc.

I did not have the scaly stuff around the metal pipes, because my hoses have been changed within the last ~5 years or so if I was guessing. But I had the same corrosion, so instead of scaling I have pitting. I applied liberal silicone grease to new radiator hoses and everything seems to be holding nicely. I just got off the shelf hoses from Advance. One or two needed some trimming, but overall they are pretty nice.

I haven't changed out anything else yet, I've only had mine since Dec. I wish I got it about this time last year, so I could have done a lot more small maintenance like you're mentioning (cap, rotor, wires, plugs) over the warm summer. But that's not how it worked out, so I've had to do the emergency stuff (t-stat, timing set, u-joint) all in the cold. Now that it's getting warmer, I may look at slowly picking away at the others. When I pulled #1 spark plug, it looked pretty worn, so I'll start with plugs/wires/cap/rotor. I think I'll order some/most of that from 22reperformance, he's given me a lot of phone support and carries OEM stuff that I may splurge for. I haven't touched my idle adj screw o-ring, might not mess with it unless I have to adjust the idle down.

The only other thing I took advantage of while my timing cover was apart was to get the radiator serviced. My radiator shop did a flush and pressure check plus some needed soldering for $20. Hard to beat, and kept me from buying a scratch-n-dent all-metal unit for $120 or so - I thought I had a coolant leak, but since the rad checked OK it was probably just my upper hose.

Other stuff I've done to my truck includes switching the trans and t-case to redline MT90. I had some pretty notchy shifting, the GL-4 MT90 smoothed that out a lot. The last leaks I have left are what is probably a rear main seal, and a front output seal on the t-case. As a band-aid, of course I can just watch the oil level for the RMS, but for the t-case I can't get the t-case fill plug out right now to top it off now and then so I'll have to figure something out about that. And the RMS may not actually be a rear main seal issue, I need to investigate it further.

Red Leader

Oh wow, good to know man, thanks

Found that 4crawler article - here

So is LCE one of the only places to go to get it? I suppose won't get any better pricing at the dealer.

I'll have to order those parts, and soon...so that by the time I'm done with the timing cover I can get the other junk back together too. Good thought on the rad test as well.

I'll update as soon as I get parts in and can actually do something.

Oh! Also, I saw this posting regarding the idle adjustment screw o-ring -

"I didn't see this fix listed .
I have a 93 P/U with the 22Re. I was having a problem with my idle speed changing by itself.
What I found out was the O ring on the idle screw was so worn out the vacuum from the engine was pulling the screw down a little at a time.
I went to ACE hardware and bought a new "O" ring. 7/16 X 5/16 X 1/16.
# 6 "O" ring. Part number 35723B"

Good tip for those with idle issues. When I bought this truck it was idling around 1500 rpm so I'll have to chase that down a bit.

FGZ

I'm idling high, mine got a lot better when I greased the throttle linkage and blew out the little one-way valve that keeps the accelerator from closing too quickly. It's back up to idling high again after sitting for 4 weeks during the timing set, though, so I'll chase that again someday too.


Hey take a look at THIS THREAD because I've just now figured out there is conflicting info floating around about what torques to use on our timing sets. I hope I didn't mess something up on mine. I had asked Tod for an instruction sheet, he said any of the readily available ones would be fine and said 4Crawlers was OK when I mentioned that one. I wish I had something more definitive. Hopefully I can find out in that thread whether I should re-torque or just leave it.

Red Leader

Here is what I saw in the FSM regarding torque settings -->





You probably already saw those. I didn't see anything for torque settings for the chain guides or the cam bolt. Crank bolt was listed at 116 ft/lbs. Oil pan bolts listed at 9 ft/lbs.

Does that correlate with the info you have?

FGZ

Pardon the dumb question, but do you have a link for where you got your fsm? I don't think I have the right one.

4crawler had some torque info for the chain guides, so I used his. Then on the oil pump, I did 14 on all - probably not too huge of a deal I hope

Red Leader

Yep, I think I got it here -
http://web.archive.org/web/201101022...ttora.com/FSM/

I had to attempt to download several times before it actually worked.

And its weird, the FSM is not is any type of order...it is just files, in folders. I have to run a search on something if I want to find it because there really isn't a good way to 'browse' it.

I got the torque info from 4crawler as well. And then the tensioner torque from Tod/Engnbldr.

Red Leader

Alright! Timing cover is on!!!

Was a little stressful (as you mentioned, FGZ) trying to work within a short span of time for the RTV/gasket maker to set up, but I think I did okay. After torquing, I am noticing a hairline (about 1/64") bead of the ultra grey along the outside perimeter.

I used some Permatex spray on copper gasket maker for the area between the head and head gasket. I covered up the front of the engine and sprayed a ton in that area, basically saturated it. Then cleaned up all around it and the bottom side of the head gasket, then went ahead and threw the timing cover on after doing the ultra grey on the gaskets.

That stuff reminds me of putting the epoxy floor down in my garage. Everything is just going along ho-hum, then you get the stuff down and then you realize, THIS IS IT, and now the clock is ticking, and its like nothing you thought it would be and then you're scrambling around like a mad man.

I had to install the oil pump 3 times haha. First, I forgot the drive gear. Second, I put it in backwards. Third time's a charm NOW I can see why they used an o-ring instead of a gasket. Those flippin' geniuses...they knew I'd own this thing one day

Next up will be the oil pan I suppose. Still need to clean it up.

Red Leader

Alright, quick question all - I noticed that there was a gasket going from the oil pan pickup tube to where it bolts on the block. Can you use rtv/fipg on that connection or is the gasket the best practice?

FGZ, what did you use since I know you dropped the pan?

Interested in all responses! Thanks!

FGZ

About that. My pickup screen was clean, so I never disconnected the pickup tube from the block. Having never disconnected it, I did not replace any gasketry. I hope that's OK, it seemed logical at the time.

I assume I would have a drop in oil pressure if I wasn't getting oil, and I watch the oil pressure like a hawk now and all is OK.

Red Leader

Well, I got the oil pan back in - talk about mechanical gymnastics If I had painted the outside of the pan I would have been miffed! I attached the pickup screen to the block and then the pan second. Fortunately after so many times of learning how it doesn't go together, when it was go time I was able to get it back up there without too much mashing around of the ultra grey. Stupid IFS!! I had to drop the front crossmember to lower the diff as far as it would go without unbolting the CVs.

The oil pick up mesh screen had some super tiny shard/bits leftover from the chain guide that were wedged in the pickup screen. I was able to get most out, but a couple passed through the mesh. I'm hoping that isn't a huge deal?

Hoping to get it all cleaned up and put back together to get it started soon!