Nughuffer

Im new to the forum but def not to Toys/jeeps/Subaru/mechanics in general.
Ill go ahead and apologize for the long post but I've been researching doing the timing chain replacement for about a month and dreading doing it/paying someone to do it.

Anyway, when Toyota said they wanted $1500 to do the work I figured I had no choice. Bla Bla Bla... so I get all the parts needed.

Last night I finally got everything put back together, everything went fairly well except for those stupid a$$ idler pulleys. BTW, I did the no head removal version. Timing cover had some decent wear but was not worn though to the coolant. I start the engine up and it fires instantly, smooth as can be. I was amazed at the difference in just the sound of the top end and how much smoother/quieter it was. Eyeballed the timing to roughly 5 deg BTDC. After a little bit of burn off from the various cleaning, assembly chems I thought I was home free........(jumping around the shop cracked a beer).

Then all of a sudden that STUPID water fitting on the driver side back of the timing cover by the dipstick starts leaking pretty good. Not the easiest piece to get to fully assembled but I take it in stride. About 2 minutes later I see this greenish brown goop dropping on the ground right by the oil pump/ main seal....Check the oil and sure enough water in the oil. I was so pissed as it was 3am at this point, I just closed up shop for the night and had a good cry. j/k

9am now, what do guys think my plan of attack should be at this point? Its not quite warm enough for the motorcycle yet especially with all the rain. HAHA. Any tips on getting that stupid rear water hose to seat properly? What else am I missing? Anybody have problems with those idler pulley adjusters besides me? Turkey season is in full effect and I need Old Blue back in service.
BTW 88 PU 4x4 22RE 205k
Any help Would Be Extremely Appreciated

zlathim

Did you change the oil after the teardown? Are you sure the water was only in the oil after you did the t/c?

Just trying to get a picture of what is going on. Is the front main seal leaking all the time now?

Drain the oil and see how much water is in it.

Nughuffer

Yeah I drained oil on initial tear down and refilled the oil after everything was put back together. Before tear down there was no signs of water in the oil. ie head gasket was fine. No other oil leaks prior to removal.Where are other possible areas for oil/water contamination?. Should I have primed the oil pump prior to install?. I'm baffled right now, the motor purrs like a kitten

Flash319

I would drain and put new oil in. This happends every time I do a timing chain. Coolent gets in there and it does not take much to turn the oil milky.

zlathim

That's what I was going to recommend doing too. Unless you have a cooling system pressure tester, then you could check and be sure that the cooling system is sealed.

Was your cover worn worse than this?

Nughuffer

The cover looked pretty similar actually . I didn't see any evidence of it wearing through though considering yesterday it ran. I just don't see where it could be coming from. Ill drain and refill when I get out of work today to see what happens. It looked like foamy greenish sand, nasty.

Any advise on the bottom A/C idler pulley or finding another. I had to beat the hell out of it to get it to move enough for the new belt to fit then it just went to hell essentially falling apart/stripping. What do those little coolant passages on the back of the T/C run to anyhow? Thanks a bunch for the replies everyone. Keep em coming, I miss driving this rig

zlathim

Try draining and filling the oil first, but if you can rent a cooling system pressure tester you will know for sure if it is leaking.

Try a junkyard for the idler pulley if one is convenient for you. Otherwise there are some guys on here that sell used parts. Either Dirtoyboy or DeathCougar can probably hook you up with an idler.

I think that the coolant passages you are reffering to are relate dto the w/p. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

My99

Regardingthe idler pulley- you did loosen the nut in the center of the pulley right? Once you do this, along with backing off the tensioner bolt it should slide like butter.

Nughuffer

Yeah I did, The p/s pulley eventually slid, but the A/C idler wouldnt budge. 200k worth of sludge I guess. I can run w/o AC for now. It is really the least of my problems right now. Thanks for the comments.

My99

Yeah that is odd. Hit it with some PB blaster or equivalent. Maybe it can get in there and lube/loosen things up.

Nughuffer

Update:
Sorry long post again....
So I drained the oil and flushed with a couple extra quarts. Refilled changed filter and fixed the heater hose on the back of the water pump. So far no coolant. My only guess is that water had gotten into the dipstick tube while it was spewing coolant out of the heater hose.
A little "southern engineering" fixed the idler pulleys. Put it all back together and now the oil pump is leaking. So apart it comes again, minus P/S A/C Alt bracket's

Question is are the oil pump bolts location specific? I know they hold the lower part of TC but I wasn't sure, lengths seem the same, only different thread lengths.

So I'll replace the inner oil pump seal today, but in the kit I got there is this big seal that will only fit on the outside of the oil pump casing where the pulley slides on. It seems to rest slightly against the crank pulley??
Their wasn't one there when I pulled it apart and seems like it would wear out on the pulley as the motor spins. Any thoughts? It looks correct I just don't know about the longevity of the seal.
Thanks for Looking... I hope it gets back together tonight

My99

Wish I could give you some more specific information but I'm not in posession of my block as the machine shop is still working on it. Hopefully if I am very lucky I will have it back by the weekend and will immediately start building it up with all the timing chain accessories and pumps.

Nughuffer

Thanks for your help the job is done and all is well so far. Its was somewhat of a PITA with all the random leaks and such.
I eyeballed the timing based on pics from here but will rent a timing light to get it spot on. Its amazing how much better it runs...feels like a totally different truck. Old Blue is ready for another 100k. Its all smiles over here knock on wood.... Next is the SR5 cluster and rod ends/steering, then suspension. I'm thinking BJ spacers and add a leafs as its just my woods truck not a big time wheeler......It never ends does it? Turns out that big seal that came in the T/C kit was the front main seal.. FYI

zlathim

Nice work Nug!