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22re rough idle after warm up???

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Old 02-25-2008, 01:17 PM
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22re rough idle after warm up???

i just got done rebuilding my motor in my 87 4runner and i am having issues with it idleing after warm up? it idles fine when you first start it but after i drive it around the block and let it idle it idles real low and kind of fluctuates between 300 to 500 rpms and dies occasionally? i pulled some codes 24, 8, 11 ! the fsm says its the air flow meter and intake temp sensor does this sound familiar to anybody! has anybody had this problem! I want to make sure that its the maf before i spend all that money on the part! thanks in advance Philip!
Old 02-25-2008, 08:08 PM
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My 91 yota pickup was doing the same thing but pulling a code for the ignitor and ignition and it was the MAF
Old 02-26-2008, 02:44 AM
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Thanks for the feedback, it also said something about the ignition as well, i tested the maf with my meter and the specs were off on a couple of the pins so i think the maf is the culprit! i'll post my findings!
Old 02-26-2008, 04:57 AM
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mine is doing the same thing but only when i push the brakes
Old 04-09-2008, 10:08 PM
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noob with same problem

I just replaced my head gasket and have the same problem you are discussing.

Have you gotten the problem figured out? What did it end up being? I'm going to check my codes tomorrow if I can free up the time and I'll post what if find if it is interesting.
Old 04-10-2008, 08:32 AM
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Checked the codes, and got a 1 "normal operation"

Maybe more interesting to others more experienced than me. I also checked the dash pot (because it was easy and right there and mentioned in another thread) and no problem there. read more here

I have a bit more valve noise than I think I should and yet anther thread proposed that as a possible issue so I'll be doing that and resetting the timing as described on toyotaoffroad.com

any thoughts or ideas would be great
Old 04-13-2008, 02:29 PM
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Question

so no luck with the above mentioned checks and adjustments. It does seem to run bit better with the valves now adjusted on a warm engine and the noise is back to normal.

I'm still stumped any ideas would be great...

recap: '86 4runner w/ 22re, I replaced the head gasket (and other associated gaskets/seals) a week ago because it was burning coolant. Now it starts and idles perfectly drives stronger than before doesn't seem to be burning coolant. once it gets good and hot, 5 to 10 min of driving (idling doesn't matter) in 80 degree heat the idle gets weird but it still runs strong. By weird I mean when I clutch in to coast to a stop it drops to just above a stall for half a second or so and then catches itself and returns to normal for a few seconds and then repeats. It does this a few time (2 to 5) and then the idle settles in but is a bit rougher than when cool.

my next move is compression, I'll get the gauge from a buddy soon.... until then

Last edited by cameron110; 04-13-2008 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:51 PM
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compression test results

so one more thing ruled out.

cly. 1 180 psi
cly. 2 179 psi
cly. 3 180 psi
cly. 4 181 psi

the symptoms have gone down even more. When I took it for a longish warm up run before the compression test it only sort of half dropped the idle a few times.

If this issue self resolves I'm going to be even more nervous about what it was for fear of it coming back to haunt me.

Old 04-20-2008, 06:27 PM
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my 91 does the same thing.....me and my buddy adjusted the timing and the airflow and that seemed to help its supposed to idle around 700-800 rpms. for some reason mine idles like a built race engine i dunno why but it used to idle that low and we just idled it up and it does fine. but yeah it still fluxuates a little bit.
Old 04-21-2008, 12:24 PM
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To both of you, I'd check good and hard for any small vacuum leaks. That can cause what you're seeing. Otherwise, if all mechanical things are in order.....valves, compression, and timing, start looking at the electronics. The coolant sensor and auxiliary air valve are where I'd start. Both will cause symptoms related to engine temps.
Old 04-21-2008, 12:26 PM
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The other thing too is that ECU develops a driving pattern memory. Sometimes if the fuel/air/timing ratios are off and then the repairs are made, it may take a bit for the ECU to adjust itself accordingly. Might explain why it seems to get better the more you drive.
Old 04-21-2008, 01:37 PM
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schmitty_686 and thook, thanks for the advice.

I've got a few hours to work on it tomorrow. I'll post up if I figure it out so hopefully this thread can help the next guy with this problem.

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