22re Rebuild Write-Up; 1990 Toyota Pickup DLX
06-11-2018, 07:44 PM
#41
First Time Starting The Engine
OK next came the fluids. I filled it with Brad Penn 30 weight break in oil. Stuff was thick and green.... It looked a lot like the Lucas assembly lube I had used. I eventually used toyota red coolant but for the first run and leak check it was hose water... My water is clean and very low in minerals. If you've ever drank Olympia beer, you know about the water.
I checked for fuel pressure and leaks by listening to the fuel pressure regulator, which hissed but I found this to be a normal sound. I hadn't replaced the fuel filter even though I bought a new one. After all, they are "lifetime." I figure I can do that when I get the injectors cleaned. Then I cranked the engine with the distributor unplugged to prime the oil pump. I had pre filled the oil filter but not the oil pump. I did put a lot of assembly lube in the spaces in between the teeth though, and figured that would create some suction and hold it together till it filled with oil.
The oil light went out but it never showed pressure (I put in an SR5 dash right before the rebuild). At first I thought something was wrong because no matter how long I cranked it would not register any oil pressure. Then I realized my fast and careless splicing of the sensor wire had failed. So I rewired it and viola oil pressure upon cranking. This was the moment of truth. I got back in, and turned the key, and after about 10 cranks, it sputtered, then roared to life. I couldn't believe it! So I jumped out and checked for leaks and found 2 coolant hoses I had to tighten more. No oil anywhere. Exhaust smelled like a Toyota and looked normal.
I posted a video of it running first start here. The idle was a bit high but it sounded very tight and happy overall, and revved quickly. At this point I was very ecstatic that nothing had gone wrong. I mean, I rebuilt my 22re, and the thing actually worked!
I checked for fuel pressure and leaks by listening to the fuel pressure regulator, which hissed but I found this to be a normal sound. I hadn't replaced the fuel filter even though I bought a new one. After all, they are "lifetime." I figure I can do that when I get the injectors cleaned. Then I cranked the engine with the distributor unplugged to prime the oil pump. I had pre filled the oil filter but not the oil pump. I did put a lot of assembly lube in the spaces in between the teeth though, and figured that would create some suction and hold it together till it filled with oil.
The oil light went out but it never showed pressure (I put in an SR5 dash right before the rebuild). At first I thought something was wrong because no matter how long I cranked it would not register any oil pressure. Then I realized my fast and careless splicing of the sensor wire had failed. So I rewired it and viola oil pressure upon cranking. This was the moment of truth. I got back in, and turned the key, and after about 10 cranks, it sputtered, then roared to life. I couldn't believe it! So I jumped out and checked for leaks and found 2 coolant hoses I had to tighten more. No oil anywhere. Exhaust smelled like a Toyota and looked normal.
I posted a video of it running first start here. The idle was a bit high but it sounded very tight and happy overall, and revved quickly. At this point I was very ecstatic that nothing had gone wrong. I mean, I rebuilt my 22re, and the thing actually worked!
06-18-2018, 12:42 PM
#44
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Nice, it lives!
My factory "downpipe" separated right at the "two-to-one" joint several years ago. I had a friend weld it back together and it recently came apart again.
The Thorley setup replaces the two pieces (manifold and first pipe), connecting to the catalytic converter. They have provisions for air injection if you have an air pump.
I had to rewire the O2 sensor, the new location is further down. I decided to use the opportunity to convert it from a one-wire to a four-wire (signal, signal ground, heater, heater ground).
If you do this and find yourself doing some electrical work with your O2 sensor, I have a *ROLL* of high-temp wire loom shielding. I'll happily cut a foot or two off and send ya some if you need.
Yah yah... I'll admit that for merely the cost of all the machine work I had done, I could have opted for something "loud and shiny" 
and gained a few HP (well, maybe...)
Actually, I was seriously considering some performance upgrades, but decided that can all happen later, once my truck is running smoothly and I get bored with the stock configuration. I may upgrade cams and add an intake and exhaust at the same time. However I would probably have to delete all the emissions stuff to run an aftermarket header, and I'm not sure I want to do that. If I wanted a screamin' demon I would have started with an improved head - one with OS valves at least.
and gained a few HP (well, maybe...)Actually, I was seriously considering some performance upgrades, but decided that can all happen later, once my truck is running smoothly and I get bored with the stock configuration. I may upgrade cams and add an intake and exhaust at the same time. However I would probably have to delete all the emissions stuff to run an aftermarket header, and I'm not sure I want to do that. If I wanted a screamin' demon I would have started with an improved head - one with OS valves at least.
The Thorley setup replaces the two pieces (manifold and first pipe), connecting to the catalytic converter. They have provisions for air injection if you have an air pump.
I had to rewire the O2 sensor, the new location is further down. I decided to use the opportunity to convert it from a one-wire to a four-wire (signal, signal ground, heater, heater ground).
If you do this and find yourself doing some electrical work with your O2 sensor, I have a *ROLL* of high-temp wire loom shielding. I'll happily cut a foot or two off and send ya some if you need.
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