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-   -   22re piston ring advice (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/22re-piston-ring-advice-276149/)

CoonMan03 12-20-2013 04:03 AM

22re piston ring advice
 
Hey guys, so I drive a 91 toyota 4wd pickup with the 22re. Everything is factory except for an aftermarket cold air intake. I'm about to strike the 240, 000 mile mark and have just been made aware that I'm gonna need new piston rings very soon as I've been burning oil for a while. I'm pretty sure you need to pull the engine to be able to reach the pistons the way you need to? If so, what else should I go ahead and replace while that sucker is out there, besides some new gaskets. Just want a reliable, good looking engine. Any advice would help but I have a few specific questions along with that.
1. Should I go ahead and bore out the cylinders with this many miles?
2. I'm thinking about removing a lot of that egr stuff, is that a headache?
Thanks for looking guys.

osv 12-20-2013 06:29 PM

with 240k, it'll probably need a full rebuild... the right way to do that is to take the block, crank, and rods to a good machine shop for evaluation, and if it was mine, i'd buy a new head from engbldr.

fwiw... I've seen threads where people leave the block bolted in, and basically remove everything around it... then ball hone the cylinder bores, if they are in decent condition, and replace the pistons/bearings, all without removing the block from the vehicle.

CoonMan03 12-20-2013 06:41 PM

Okay, that's what I was thinking. It might be worth just going ahead and getting replacement crankshaft, pistons, rods, all that then. And I think I'll just go ahead and pull trans and everything for evaluation. If not, that's exactly what I'll do. Thanks man. Also, I'm not too experienced eoth re-doing main engine components but I do own a hayne's manual for my truck. Would it be worth paying for labor or could any guy with common sense do this

osv 12-20-2013 07:13 PM

here is an old thread(1997 or so) about "rebuilding" the motor in the vehicle:
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/tec...e/22r_rbld.htm

i chose to buy running/rebuilt 22re motors rather than rebuild 'em myself, because time was more important than money.

these are fairly simple engines, and you can download the factory 22re manuals from several places, so that helps.

one approach might be to find another 22re, hopefully one that is running, and rebuild it, while you drive your truck in the meantime.

are there any machine shops down there that work on 22re's?

SoCal4Running 12-20-2013 07:25 PM

I rebuilt the one in my 86 after I had a ring break with the motor left in the truck. Knowing it never overheated I was pretty confident that the cylinders were ok. I remember seeing cross hatch was still there in all the cylinders so a simple Hone and ridge removal was done.

The only PITA is being 4wd that you have to remove the front diff to get the oil pan off and also give you enough room to get the torque wrench in there for the mains and rods.

Even though everything went fine and the motor lasted a long time after that I would pull it. It is SO much easier to work on when its on a stand.

Beg, borrow or steal a hoist and stand!
If your in SoCal you can use mine ;)

txclimber 12-21-2013 07:14 AM

It's not that bad and there are lots of threads on here, including mine, about doing a full rebuild.

I'd save yourself some headaches and go ahead and pull the motor. It's much easier to work on that way.

Most likely you won't need a new crank, but the machine shop can tell you for sure when you take it in to be polished up.

Yes. Bore it out and buy the appropriate sized pistons and rings. After 240k the cylinders won't quite be round anymore, more oval shaped. The only way to get them perfectly round again is to make 'em bigger.

It's really not that expensive or hard to do. If you can, pick up a FSM they're way better than those other generic ones. If you log in plenty of keyboard time around here it's pretty easy though. Just take the time to label everything with tape/tags and lots of photos as you're tearing it down. They are priceless when re-assembling.

snobdds 12-21-2013 08:16 AM

A 22re can be pulled in 4 hours. Then the time saving starts.

93 Toyota 4x4 12-21-2013 05:16 PM

no point just re ringing the motor with that many miles on it, pull the motor and rebuild it. Have a machine shop check the usual stuff. He will tell you what it needs. If you don't feel comfortable rebuilding it, buy a rebuilt long or short block. Since your in there replace the clutch if it's a 5 spd.

IMHO- Remove the emission stuff only if you know what to take out, you may create more problems just pulling and plugging.

CoonMan03 12-22-2013 08:50 AM

Alright, so from what most of you guys are saying, I'm gonna pull the engine and order a master rebuild kit. Anybody know who sells a good kit? Any suggestions? I know Lc engineering has an "economy 22re rebuild kit" for like 299.99. Seems too good to be true though since I see just pistons go for like 150. I'd like to stay under 500 for parts on this.

93 Toyota 4x4 12-22-2013 09:28 AM

need to order anything till you know what size the bearings you need, plus if you need over sized pistons. Pull the motor and have a reputable machine shop check things out for you. Have the rods checked too.

Rassa1 01-31-2019 10:22 AM

man, i could you your engine stand if you borrow it, i have the cherry picker and the engine and trans is on a cart but not easy to turn it around, i am in chula vista.

Rassa1 01-31-2019 10:26 AM


Originally Posted by SoCal4Running (Post 52151034)
I rebuilt the one in my 86 after I had a ring break with the motor left in the truck. Knowing it never overheated I was pretty confident that the cylinders were ok. I remember seeing cross hatch was still there in all the cylinders so a simple Hone and ridge removal was done.

The only PITA is being 4wd that you have to remove the front diff to get the oil pan off and also give you enough room to get the torque wrench in there for the mains and rods.

Even though everything went fine and the motor lasted a long time after that I would pull it. It is SO much easier to work on when its on a stand.

Beg, borrow or steal a hoist and stand!
If your in SoCal you can use mine ;)

Man, i could use that engine stand if you borrow it, i have the cherry picker and the engine is on a cart, not easy to turn it around to work on it, i am in Chula Vista

beef tits 02-02-2019 08:54 AM


Originally Posted by osv (Post 52151022)

fwiw... I've seen threads where people leave the block bolted in, and basically remove everything around it... then ball hone the cylinder bores, if they are in decent condition, and replace the pistons/bearings, all without removing the block from the vehicle.

This is a good way to toast your bearings in 20k miles. Don’t rebuild the motor in the truck. Take it to a machine shop and have it professionally mic’d and balanced. Yes it is a reliable well built Toyota, but you are playing with fire even especially using Chinese parts from Engnbldr.

If you deck the block, get the timing cover decked too or you WILL have leaks.



beef tits 02-02-2019 09:00 AM


Originally Posted by CoonMan03 (Post 52151347)
Alright, so from what most of you guys are saying, I'm gonna pull the engine and order a master rebuild kit. Anybody know who sells a good kit? Any suggestions? I know Lc engineering has an "economy 22re rebuild kit" for like 299.99. Seems too good to be true though since I see just pistons go for like 150. I'd like to stay under 500 for parts on this.

A few tips:

If you want it to last, use the Toyota oem head gasket and rear/front main seals. At minimum use Japanese made parts, not Chinese.

If you deck the block (typical done to clean it up) deck the timing cover too. Be very careful installing the timing cover, this is a hot-spot for leaks.

Have all your rods/pistons checked by a shop for cracks or stresses. Typically these are all re-usable.

If your block is in good shape, don’t worry about new pistons, the cost to oversize/bore isn’t worth the miniscule power gain.

Don’t forget assembly lube.

Use plastigage to check the shops work, but don’t use it to check tolerances in lieu of paying a shop to mic it. Plastigage won’t tell you if anything is ovaled.




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