22re performance motor Sunwest Automotive Engine
 

Well my current 22re has a rod/pin knock. Finally had to come to terms with it, no more hoping for an easy solution. With time vrs cost analysis in consideration, I opted for a long block. Of course the idea of a plain remans was unappealling so started the search for a performance replacement. Tim at DOA was very helpful but shipping across country kinda broke it. LCE is just too proud/rich for my blood. Engnbldr is retired. Heard way to much negative from Oregon engine builders. TandD Machine was too long of a wait. Well Sunwest Automotive Engines (www.sunwestautomotiveengines.com/) to answer all my questions. Didn't find much on the web about them, so thought I'd give them a try. Told Mike at Sunwest I'd write about the experience, didn't get a discount but life goes on.

The only big difference between the engine I ordered and the web site is that I'm getting a new head. I ordered it today, should have it by beginning of next week, he's got a couple of guys on vacation so is a little backed up.

SG

I just go my head from ENGNBLDR... What do you mean he is retired?

I think he means he is not building motors to sell anymore!

His son still builds motors... He's running Ted's shop.

Wasn't able to make it into my time line, as you can imagine he gets busy.

The Sunwest web site is a little vague on the specs of the engine seems they've not updated in a while. IE KB hyperuteptic (sp?), molley rings, and a new head.

30mo/30,000 mile warraunty even on a self install.

Well, talked to Mike at Sunwest today. My engine parts are out being balanced today. He said it'll ship wednesday. So things are looking really good for having the motor installed this week end.

I requested that they grind my flywheel to the .026 spec that Marlin does, they said no problem.

So far Sunwest gets an A for customer service.

The excitement rises....

I can't wait to start my new 22re build. I was gunna just get a completed long block, but after searching around, I'd rather get my hands dirty and tear into the motor myself. Plans call for pretty much all LCE parts (I know, $$$); gunna be a stroker motor turning it into a 2.6l, 94mm 9.8:1 compression pistons notched for valve clearance, mild stage-2 Cam, port and polished intake, big bore TB, flow-matched injectors, 4 to 1 long tube header, underdrive pulley kit, duel row timing chain set, and a few other little goodies... yeah, it's gunna cost a small fortune... but with the 4.88s and 33s, I think it'll be a beast on the trails, especially later on when I put dual t-cases on her, and it'll be able to lay it to the ricers in my town too, hahaha.

Cant wait to see how the new motor works out for ya man. What are the specs on it?

http://www.custommachiningusa.com/Specialty_Items.html this place by an alt. to LCE for you.

Was temped to do a rebuild myself but limited time.

specs are.
keith black piston 232
chomemoly piston rings
260 RV cam
balance and blueprinted
ported and polished
new head
new springs
remans rockers with new
OS I/E valves

Right now I'm just drooling on the thought of wheeling. I'm seriuosly going through withdraw.

And the dual install freak'n rocks. It's the best of both worlds and a world beyond a single case, either 4.70 or 2.28.

that's a pretty kick'n 2.7l short block they offer, may have to put them on my list too, thanx man!

Keep me posted/do a right up of the stroker. I'm real interested in seeing the final product you drop in your truck.

bleeder, your crazy.

go ahead and dyno it before and after.

:cheers:

:D

what if my current motor doesn't make it long enough to dyno? 286k... she's on her way out, and I drive her hard, and it'll be another 4 er 5 monther before I get started on this, lol

Just a quick update, picked motor up late Friday. It is now installed, but my radiator is literally falling apart. Performance rad should heve one in for me tomorrow, might as well get my core at same time.

Modified my motor mounts with a 1/2" grade #8 bolt. No more concerns of breaking mounts runnig duals. Was a PITA to in install, took quite a while to figure it out but got it in.

I didn't take any pic's not much of a photographer.

New engine is pretty and it's got oil pressure!!!!

I got the engine in and running. Pretty bad exhuast leak at the header/head junction. So replaced the the put some new studs in and ordered a gasket from Doug Thorley. Engine runs great, just haven't driven it much after I narrowed the noise down to exhuast leak. Should have the new gasket Monday or Tuesday, figured that if stock design cost a little more than the DT and has to be modified might as well go with DT. Never had a problem with the old gaket.

what is the point of bumping the 22re in a 4wd truck to 200 hp, when dual transfer cases and gearing can get the job done for almost as much money?
I think few will disagree with the fact that the old WWII army jeeps were almost impossible to stop, and only had ~40 horse.

Why? Why not? Don't know about 200hp, not saying its not possible, but not my engine. Gears (duals t-cases) our the only way to increase offroad capiblities but do nothing for on road performance. To have a performance modified engine in a dedicated trail rig, I'd agree was pointless unless except for some racing aplications. My truck is still a DD and intend to keep it that way. So a little extra in the motor makes running on the interstate more enjoyable. Engine swapping was not an option at this point and don't really foresee it.

Yes the old WWII jeeps were very capible offroad but max speed was about 45mph.

WWII jeeps were limited to about 45 because of the gear ratios. If there were either a gear splitter or more gears, that puny power could've moved it to 80 easily.

but... taller final drives and lower transfer case gears don't achieve a balance?

you could have a 1:1 final drive, and if the gears between the engine and trans offer usable ratios, then what does it matter?

cross country tractor-trailer rigs run 150 horse engines and can pull 80,000 pounds up a hill and can do 90 miles per hour. but they have more gears than you. they may not be able to do 60 up a hill, but they have the gears to get there and don't need a 200hp engine to do it.

getting my point?

I get the point your trying to make but your off the mark: A tractor for a 18wheeler is a diesel which has high low end torque so HP is not the important number, Ft/Lbs is. This is why the guys with the 3/4 and one ton trucks tire up for better gas mileage,. but they loss some weight carrying ability.

Now gas powered engines have a higher Hp value but a lower torque value. This is why we regear our dif's when we tire up. You can run 4:10 and 35's and reach 75mph, but to do so you'll need flat ground (well down hill is probably more realistic) and a good tail wind. I could tell a big difference when I regeared from 4:10 to 4:88 with 33" tires. Some trail only rigs have 37" and 4:10 gears but they use the T case gears over the dif gearing and never run 4high. Speed is not a concern for them.

Just like a ten to 27 speed bicycle, the taller the gears are the harder to pedal. Meaning the more torque that is needed to turn the rear wheel. Surely you'll reach a point that as the terrain changes that your legs can no longer maintain speed and you have to down shift to stay moving. As you downshift you have to turn the pedals faster to produce speed but you can only pedal so fast.

Hope this helps.

Steam engines had HP values even lower than diesel does.

so you've just confirmed what I was saying, that you don't need a lot of horsepower to move a vehicle. you only need gears that take advantage of what horsepower you have in order to make usable torque.

and the bike comparison ... proves what I said. with proper gearing, you don't need a lot of horsepower to move.

Your absolutely right ;)

http://rvingwithmarkpolk.blogspot.co...us-diesel.html

This may help, but if not I'm licked. Or may be wrong. If according to you, the hot ticket would be to run dual trannies (which is done but not popular) you could put two 5 speed trannies. One tranny turned backwards to step up rotation speeds. Run 5th gear in both and really get your rig moving. You could even do a write up and start a new trend. You may get the gearing set to run your rig with a Briggs and Stratton. Imagine the gas mileage you'd get with such a small engine.

What do you say, are you up to a challenge??