22RE oil pump bolts
#1
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22RE oil pump bolts
I need to know which bolts are used for the oil pump. also, which are used for the water plate at the rear of the head.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
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That is not a water plate, it is a part of the EGR route. The mounting bolts are all 8mm x 1.25 for that, and they are torqued to 9lb-ft.
The oil pump bolts are a bit of a PITA, there are different lengths and there are three different torque specs used; plus one of them requires sealant on the thread! Not exactly sure why but, I recommend you consult the FSM or a Haynes for those details on the oil pump. Make sure you do not use a bolt that is too short for the higher torque # bolts otherwise you will easily strip threads if they are only threaded 2-3 turns in.
The oil pump bolts are a bit of a PITA, there are different lengths and there are three different torque specs used; plus one of them requires sealant on the thread! Not exactly sure why but, I recommend you consult the FSM or a Haynes for those details on the oil pump. Make sure you do not use a bolt that is too short for the higher torque # bolts otherwise you will easily strip threads if they are only threaded 2-3 turns in.
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I got the oil pump all figured out. So now with the EGR plate- The gasket set that I got has a gasket for that, but it is just a paper gasket to match the water pump, intake manifold, etc. But the origonal gasket that came off was a crushed lead(?) gasket. Do I just use the thin paper gasket with RTV, and if so, is black RTV okay, or do I need to go high temp?
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My FSM didn't call for use of RTV ("packing sealant") so I just went with the gasket that came in my full gasket kit, which yes was one of the paper types.
Also note that the gasket on the three-bolt AGR up-tube is the same unit as the lower intake to cyl head itself, which again is a thin paper type.
I don't believe this to be an issue because while exhaust gasses do travel through this route, they are not blasting through there constantly rather only during periods of high load. For street use I don't think this channel would remain excessively hot for this gasket at the rear of the cyl head, and if this isn't a street vehicle then you should rip out the entire EGR system and permanently plate off the rear of the cyl head anyway
Also note that the gasket on the three-bolt AGR up-tube is the same unit as the lower intake to cyl head itself, which again is a thin paper type.
I don't believe this to be an issue because while exhaust gasses do travel through this route, they are not blasting through there constantly rather only during periods of high load. For street use I don't think this channel would remain excessively hot for this gasket at the rear of the cyl head, and if this isn't a street vehicle then you should rip out the entire EGR system and permanently plate off the rear of the cyl head anyway
#5
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If you take a look at the plate that bolts on, it not only has the EGR passage ob both sides, it also seals the massive hole in the head for coolant (to cool the EGR gasses). I prefer the OEM or thicker gasket and a thin film of Permatex Grey RTV (the closest to OEM Toyota 'black', Honda grey or Subaru grey) on both sides of the gasket.
Just make sure the surface of the EGR cooler plate is flat and free of ANY gasket material. Also the longer bolts go through the heater hose hard line flange that bolts to it.
Enjoy.
Just make sure the surface of the EGR cooler plate is flat and free of ANY gasket material. Also the longer bolts go through the heater hose hard line flange that bolts to it.
Enjoy.
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jon.r
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07-11-2015 03:34 PM
22re, bolts, causing, egr, gasket, installation, installing, kit, oil, plate, pump, replacement, specs, torque, water