22RE loping idle fix
09-19-2009, 11:59 AM
#22
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update
oddly enough turning the idle air bypass screw all the way in to the right and turning the air condition on full blast magically stops the problem.
this is so confusing i don't even know where to begin. something is F.U.B.A.R and is causing lots of problems some where some way some how .
09-19-2009, 08:00 PM
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I know this is a old post and this might be a stupid question but I just took iff my TB and cleaned it and i IACV really well now does the IACV use pressure or temp to close the valve i'm just makeing sure this is my first toyota and i've only owned her for about a week and a half i am haveing the same problem u were and i have tried everything that i and almost anyone else could think of
Not always.
Up to / through 88 (IIRC) / and some in between, the idle air control was external to the throttle body and was electrically heated. When the intake and throttle body changed in 89/90 to become horizontal instead of the down-turned TB of the earlier design, the auxillary air valve (as it came to be named) became coolant heated.
Both of these give you some indications for troubleshooting- high idle driving around town but after a few high-speed miles down the freeway and it idles lower... likely thermal transfer has closed the valve resulting in lower idle speeds. In the case of the IAV, then it's likely the IAV isn't getting the voltage to heat the coil or it is actually stuck. In the case of the AAC, coolant flow may be obstructed and the simple fact that at speed, the engine generates heat and the heat is being conducted to the valve which is in turn closing the valve and lowering the idle may be the issue. If letting the engine set idling for 30 minutes results in the idle speed creeping back up... you may have found your culprit.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-19-2009 at 08:05 PM.
09-20-2009, 03:37 PM
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Man, I took the intake tube off the the throttle body, taped over the hole for the IAC (yes, the right one), it eliminated my high idle (cold), but I STILL have my idle adjust screw all the way in!
Tried the brake booster line, checks out fine....
Tried the brake booster line, checks out fine....
09-24-2009, 07:45 AM
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Update: good news!
A little background first... as posted above, I taped over the inlet from the IAC valve to the throttle body bore, thinking that it never fully shut at normal operating temperature. Wanted to try this, as it occurred to me that if it in fact wasn't, that would be unmetered or unaccounted for air by the AFM and possibly screwing up my mixture by the ECU.
I think I may have been right.
Upon plugging the IAC inlet, I noticed what I "thought" was a lighter pedal from a stop and at cruising speed. Knowing that it could be wishful thinking, I decided to fill the tank and compare mpg's. Although I've never been one to track down to the milliliter, I've consistently gotten between 17 and 18 mpgs under normal driving conditions (no towing, typical commuting during the week). And yes, this is corrected for tire size, gearing, and I've used GPS to get a more accurate speedometer reading. In fact, I've been so consistent in these numbers since I started driving this thing over a year ago that I've often thought "why bother" to calculate at the pump, but my OCD arse always does...
Anyhow, finished my first tank last night and filled up: ~19.8 mpg's. This is with a rough estimate of 60/40 highway/city driving, no A/C on the way in the morning, A/C full blast on the way home in the afternoon. Although I know that how you drive on one tank is ALWAYS different to a small degree than how/where you drive on the next, I'm confident that my habits were as "normal" as could be. The ONLY difference was that piece of tape over the IAC inlet. I'll be tracking this current tank as well.
Might want to try it if you suspect similar, can't hurt. Tape always comes off!
PS- To be sure the tape didn't get sucked into the TB, I ran a piece length-wise over the inlet, then OUTSIDE THE TB, folded over, so that when I reinstalled the inlet tube and clamped it, it would clamp the tape as well.
Gonna test a few more tanks for consistency, then try to figure a more permanent solution to the leaky IAC if the trend continues.
Thoughts??
A little background first... as posted above, I taped over the inlet from the IAC valve to the throttle body bore, thinking that it never fully shut at normal operating temperature. Wanted to try this, as it occurred to me that if it in fact wasn't, that would be unmetered or unaccounted for air by the AFM and possibly screwing up my mixture by the ECU.
I think I may have been right.
Upon plugging the IAC inlet, I noticed what I "thought" was a lighter pedal from a stop and at cruising speed. Knowing that it could be wishful thinking, I decided to fill the tank and compare mpg's. Although I've never been one to track down to the milliliter, I've consistently gotten between 17 and 18 mpgs under normal driving conditions (no towing, typical commuting during the week). And yes, this is corrected for tire size, gearing, and I've used GPS to get a more accurate speedometer reading. In fact, I've been so consistent in these numbers since I started driving this thing over a year ago that I've often thought "why bother" to calculate at the pump, but my OCD arse always does...
Anyhow, finished my first tank last night and filled up: ~19.8 mpg's. This is with a rough estimate of 60/40 highway/city driving, no A/C on the way in the morning, A/C full blast on the way home in the afternoon. Although I know that how you drive on one tank is ALWAYS different to a small degree than how/where you drive on the next, I'm confident that my habits were as "normal" as could be. The ONLY difference was that piece of tape over the IAC inlet. I'll be tracking this current tank as well.
Might want to try it if you suspect similar, can't hurt. Tape always comes off!
PS- To be sure the tape didn't get sucked into the TB, I ran a piece length-wise over the inlet, then OUTSIDE THE TB, folded over, so that when I reinstalled the inlet tube and clamped it, it would clamp the tape as well.
Gonna test a few more tanks for consistency, then try to figure a more permanent solution to the leaky IAC if the trend continues.
Thoughts??
09-24-2009, 08:38 AM
#26
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Update: good news!
A little background first... as posted above, I taped over the inlet from the IAC valve to the throttle body bore, thinking that it never fully shut at normal operating temperature. Wanted to try this, as it occurred to me that if it in fact wasn't, that would be unmetered or unaccounted for air by the AFM and possibly screwing up my mixture by the ECU.
I think I may have been right.
Upon plugging the IAC inlet, I noticed what I "thought" was a lighter pedal from a stop and at cruising speed. Knowing that it could be wishful thinking, I decided to fill the tank and compare mpg's. Although I've never been one to track down to the milliliter, I've consistently gotten between 17 and 18 mpgs under normal driving conditions (no towing, typical commuting during the week). And yes, this is corrected for tire size, gearing, and I've used GPS to get a more accurate speedometer reading. In fact, I've been so consistent in these numbers since I started driving this thing over a year ago that I've often thought "why bother" to calculate at the pump, but my OCD arse always does...
Anyhow, finished my first tank last night and filled up: ~19.8 mpg's. This is with a rough estimate of 60/40 highway/city driving, no A/C on the way in the morning, A/C full blast on the way home in the afternoon. Although I know that how you drive on one tank is ALWAYS different to a small degree than how/where you drive on the next, I'm confident that my habits were as "normal" as could be. The ONLY difference was that piece of tape over the IAC inlet. I'll be tracking this current tank as well.
Might want to try it if you suspect similar, can't hurt. Tape always comes off!
PS- To be sure the tape didn't get sucked into the TB, I ran a piece length-wise over the inlet, then OUTSIDE THE TB, folded over, so that when I reinstalled the inlet tube and clamped it, it would clamp the tape as well.
Gonna test a few more tanks for consistency, then try to figure a more permanent solution to the leaky IAC if the trend continues.
Thoughts??
A little background first... as posted above, I taped over the inlet from the IAC valve to the throttle body bore, thinking that it never fully shut at normal operating temperature. Wanted to try this, as it occurred to me that if it in fact wasn't, that would be unmetered or unaccounted for air by the AFM and possibly screwing up my mixture by the ECU.
I think I may have been right.
Upon plugging the IAC inlet, I noticed what I "thought" was a lighter pedal from a stop and at cruising speed. Knowing that it could be wishful thinking, I decided to fill the tank and compare mpg's. Although I've never been one to track down to the milliliter, I've consistently gotten between 17 and 18 mpgs under normal driving conditions (no towing, typical commuting during the week). And yes, this is corrected for tire size, gearing, and I've used GPS to get a more accurate speedometer reading. In fact, I've been so consistent in these numbers since I started driving this thing over a year ago that I've often thought "why bother" to calculate at the pump, but my OCD arse always does...
Anyhow, finished my first tank last night and filled up: ~19.8 mpg's. This is with a rough estimate of 60/40 highway/city driving, no A/C on the way in the morning, A/C full blast on the way home in the afternoon. Although I know that how you drive on one tank is ALWAYS different to a small degree than how/where you drive on the next, I'm confident that my habits were as "normal" as could be. The ONLY difference was that piece of tape over the IAC inlet. I'll be tracking this current tank as well.
Might want to try it if you suspect similar, can't hurt. Tape always comes off!
PS- To be sure the tape didn't get sucked into the TB, I ran a piece length-wise over the inlet, then OUTSIDE THE TB, folded over, so that when I reinstalled the inlet tube and clamped it, it would clamp the tape as well.
Gonna test a few more tanks for consistency, then try to figure a more permanent solution to the leaky IAC if the trend continues.
Thoughts??
09-24-2009, 08:49 AM
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Thought about that when I discovered the numbers at the pump last night and thought to post it. Will get those for you soon...
In the meantime, I'll try to describe.
With the opening of the TB exposed, I basically took the electrician's equivalent of duct tape and cut about a six inch piece (standard duct tape width). Length-wise, I took one end of that piece and covered the IAC inlet. The remainder was sticking out of the TB (about three inches). Took that remainder and folded it UNDER, sticking it to the OUTSIDE of the TB inlet. Put the inlet hose back on and clamped it, thus clamping the folded part of the tape on the outside of the TB in place, as well.
Unless the suction of the TB is enough to rip large electrical tape (that I can't tear by hand), that sucker's going nowhere. Only potential problem I foresee is the sticky part of the tape over the inlet losing it's adhesion over time and not sealing the inlet. If the numbers at the pump continue, I'll be looking for a more permanent (and less okie) solution.
In the meantime, I'll try to describe.
With the opening of the TB exposed, I basically took the electrician's equivalent of duct tape and cut about a six inch piece (standard duct tape width). Length-wise, I took one end of that piece and covered the IAC inlet. The remainder was sticking out of the TB (about three inches). Took that remainder and folded it UNDER, sticking it to the OUTSIDE of the TB inlet. Put the inlet hose back on and clamped it, thus clamping the folded part of the tape on the outside of the TB in place, as well.
Unless the suction of the TB is enough to rip large electrical tape (that I can't tear by hand), that sucker's going nowhere. Only potential problem I foresee is the sticky part of the tape over the inlet losing it's adhesion over time and not sealing the inlet. If the numbers at the pump continue, I'll be looking for a more permanent (and less okie) solution.
09-24-2009, 04:26 PM
#28
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Thought about that when I discovered the numbers at the pump last night and thought to post it. Will get those for you soon...
In the meantime, I'll try to describe.
With the opening of the TB exposed, I basically took the electrician's equivalent of duct tape and cut about a six inch piece (standard duct tape width). Length-wise, I took one end of that piece and covered the IAC inlet. The remainder was sticking out of the TB (about three inches). Took that remainder and folded it UNDER, sticking it to the OUTSIDE of the TB inlet. Put the inlet hose back on and clamped it, thus clamping the folded part of the tape on the outside of the TB in place, as well.
Unless the suction of the TB is enough to rip large electrical tape (that I can't tear by hand), that sucker's going nowhere. Only potential problem I foresee is the sticky part of the tape over the inlet losing it's adhesion over time and not sealing the inlet. If the numbers at the pump continue, I'll be looking for a more permanent (and less okie) solution.
In the meantime, I'll try to describe.
With the opening of the TB exposed, I basically took the electrician's equivalent of duct tape and cut about a six inch piece (standard duct tape width). Length-wise, I took one end of that piece and covered the IAC inlet. The remainder was sticking out of the TB (about three inches). Took that remainder and folded it UNDER, sticking it to the OUTSIDE of the TB inlet. Put the inlet hose back on and clamped it, thus clamping the folded part of the tape on the outside of the TB in place, as well.
Unless the suction of the TB is enough to rip large electrical tape (that I can't tear by hand), that sucker's going nowhere. Only potential problem I foresee is the sticky part of the tape over the inlet losing it's adhesion over time and not sealing the inlet. If the numbers at the pump continue, I'll be looking for a more permanent (and less okie) solution.
Thanks!!
09-24-2009, 05:17 PM
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09-26-2009, 06:51 PM
#31
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Update: good news!
A little background first... as posted above, I taped over the inlet from the IAC valve to the throttle body bore, thinking that it never fully shut at normal operating temperature. Wanted to try this, as it occurred to me that if it in fact wasn't, that would be unmetered or unaccounted for air by the AFM and possibly screwing up my mixture by the ECU.
I think I may have been right.
Upon plugging the IAC inlet, I noticed what I "thought" was a lighter pedal from a stop and at cruising speed. Knowing that it could be wishful thinking, I decided to fill the tank and compare mpg's. Although I've never been one to track down to the milliliter, I've consistently gotten between 17 and 18 mpgs under normal driving conditions (no towing, typical commuting during the week). And yes, this is corrected for tire size, gearing, and I've used GPS to get a more accurate speedometer reading. In fact, I've been so consistent in these numbers since I started driving this thing over a year ago that I've often thought "why bother" to calculate at the pump, but my OCD arse always does...
Anyhow, finished my first tank last night and filled up: ~19.8 mpg's. This is with a rough estimate of 60/40 highway/city driving, no A/C on the way in the morning, A/C full blast on the way home in the afternoon. Although I know that how you drive on one tank is ALWAYS different to a small degree than how/where you drive on the next, I'm confident that my habits were as "normal" as could be. The ONLY difference was that piece of tape over the IAC inlet. I'll be tracking this current tank as well.
Might want to try it if you suspect similar, can't hurt. Tape always comes off!
PS- To be sure the tape didn't get sucked into the TB, I ran a piece length-wise over the inlet, then OUTSIDE THE TB, folded over, so that when I reinstalled the inlet tube and clamped it, it would clamp the tape as well.
Gonna test a few more tanks for consistency, then try to figure a more permanent solution to the leaky IAC if the trend continues.
Thoughts??
A little background first... as posted above, I taped over the inlet from the IAC valve to the throttle body bore, thinking that it never fully shut at normal operating temperature. Wanted to try this, as it occurred to me that if it in fact wasn't, that would be unmetered or unaccounted for air by the AFM and possibly screwing up my mixture by the ECU.
I think I may have been right.
Upon plugging the IAC inlet, I noticed what I "thought" was a lighter pedal from a stop and at cruising speed. Knowing that it could be wishful thinking, I decided to fill the tank and compare mpg's. Although I've never been one to track down to the milliliter, I've consistently gotten between 17 and 18 mpgs under normal driving conditions (no towing, typical commuting during the week). And yes, this is corrected for tire size, gearing, and I've used GPS to get a more accurate speedometer reading. In fact, I've been so consistent in these numbers since I started driving this thing over a year ago that I've often thought "why bother" to calculate at the pump, but my OCD arse always does...
Anyhow, finished my first tank last night and filled up: ~19.8 mpg's. This is with a rough estimate of 60/40 highway/city driving, no A/C on the way in the morning, A/C full blast on the way home in the afternoon. Although I know that how you drive on one tank is ALWAYS different to a small degree than how/where you drive on the next, I'm confident that my habits were as "normal" as could be. The ONLY difference was that piece of tape over the IAC inlet. I'll be tracking this current tank as well.
Might want to try it if you suspect similar, can't hurt. Tape always comes off!
PS- To be sure the tape didn't get sucked into the TB, I ran a piece length-wise over the inlet, then OUTSIDE THE TB, folded over, so that when I reinstalled the inlet tube and clamped it, it would clamp the tape as well.
Gonna test a few more tanks for consistency, then try to figure a more permanent solution to the leaky IAC if the trend continues.
Thoughts??
but like i said in my last post for some odd reason when the ac is on full blast the idle returns to normal but i have read that when the ac is on the computer takes over control of the idle. so i guess it's true.
09-29-2009, 05:07 AM
#32
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09-29-2009, 05:17 AM
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Sorry to hear that, must be different issues. To update also, my second tank also showed ~19mpgs. Still an improvement! Looking forward to a tank or two with no AC, now that it's starting to cool here. Mine causes a VERY noticable drag on the wee 4 banger...
09-29-2009, 07:47 AM
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well after about 6 months of trying to figure out what is causing my high idle i have decided to call it quits throw in the towel and let the truck win.
she is now up for sale $2100 on craigslist.
it really needs more work done to it than i can afford right now so i think it will be for the best. after all i can always buy another yota.
she is now up for sale $2100 on craigslist.
it really needs more work done to it than i can afford right now so i think it will be for the best. after all i can always buy another yota.
09-17-2013, 03:45 PM
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i have a 1989 toyota truck 22re it is running very bad at idle loping and stalling when take off. I have changed the tps, distributor, plugs wires rotor button and egr valve. Tried a known good afm, I have unhooked exhaust to eliminate it the only thing I noticed is that my egr vavle even after running for a while does not get hot could I have a stopped up passage going into my head causing the issues. It is running so bad that i Can not even drive when I shift to second it just dies and I cant hardly get up enugh rpms to even need to shift. Any advice would help thanks in advance
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