22re leaky rear main seal --- already has new seal installed!
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22re leaky rear main seal --- already has new seal installed but still leaks!
So, my 87 4runner was leaking from the rear main seal. This destroyed the clutch. So, I dropped the trans and found that the PO had already replaced the clutch and rear main seal about a year ago with new Kragen parts. After popping out the old seal, I noticed that there is a groove worn in the crank where the new PO seal was installed.
What is the right way to fix this? Should I:
A: get a factory RMS from Toyota
B: use a speedy sleeve and a factory seal
C: use some aftermarket seal
D: shave down a seal so that it contacts a different part of the crank closer to the engine
E: get a spacer made that moves the seal slightly out from its current location
F: install the seal upside down so that a totally different area is contacted by the seal. (this one sounds weird to me because the seal has tiny oil grooves pushing the oil back into the engine from its rotation, so I don't know if it would work or not)
G: remove the paper gaskets on the seal housing and use FIPG to slightly lower the housing toward the engine
H: Use 2 paper seals on the RMS housing that slightly space the housing away from the engine.
I: Use FIPG on the housing AND shave down a factory seal to contact a different point on the crank.
J: Use FIPG on the housing AND install a factory seal AND use a speedy sleeve
K: Get a new crank...(not really into this one)
L: Something totally different
Any help from people who have successfully fixed the problem and not made it worse is appreciated.
What is the right way to fix this? Should I:
A: get a factory RMS from Toyota
B: use a speedy sleeve and a factory seal
C: use some aftermarket seal
D: shave down a seal so that it contacts a different part of the crank closer to the engine
E: get a spacer made that moves the seal slightly out from its current location
F: install the seal upside down so that a totally different area is contacted by the seal. (this one sounds weird to me because the seal has tiny oil grooves pushing the oil back into the engine from its rotation, so I don't know if it would work or not)
G: remove the paper gaskets on the seal housing and use FIPG to slightly lower the housing toward the engine
H: Use 2 paper seals on the RMS housing that slightly space the housing away from the engine.
I: Use FIPG on the housing AND shave down a factory seal to contact a different point on the crank.
J: Use FIPG on the housing AND install a factory seal AND use a speedy sleeve
K: Get a new crank...(not really into this one)
L: Something totally different
Any help from people who have successfully fixed the problem and not made it worse is appreciated.
Last edited by Duffdog; 06-05-2012 at 06:06 PM.
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