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22RE Head Gasket and Timing Chain Replacement PICS

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Old 07-13-2006, 07:16 AM
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*sigh*...I haven't had my injector serviced in AGES.....
Old 07-13-2006, 07:55 AM
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All's not well yet. I had to pull the head again. Got a little too hasty with putting the head back on, and the more I thought about it, the more I was sure I didn't get a very good seal on the rear oil plate. Also, when I went back to work on it this morning. I realized that I forgot to reattach the air and water pipes running behind the head, and I REALLY don't want to reattach the pipes with the head on. I'm probably just being anal, but I don't know and don't care to get it all back together and find I've got an oil leak BEHIND THE HEAD. So off came the head, and I'm off to the stealership for a new HG. $45 isn't too bad though for a Toyota HG though. Sorry engnbldr...but I did learn to SLOW DOWN AND TAKE YOUR TIME to ensure you put everything back together in the right order. Learn from my stupid mistake. And don't feel sorry for me.

Oh and will try vaseline on the oil pump...will be interesting going through the checkout line with just a tub of vaseline though...
Old 07-13-2006, 03:15 PM
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Help

Alright a quick reply here would be awesome and I could get back to work on the head gasket today. reinstalled the rear oil plate on the head, and left the two bolts out for the air pipe brackets which run around the back. Put the head on, and after about an hour of trying to thread the two bolts in from the back, I Finally got one in tight, but the other would never tighten. Pulled the head back off with the hoses and found that one of the holes got stripped somehow.

You can see the bolt hole for the oil plate on the back here...


Is it alright to just leave this bolt out? Or do I need to figure out a way to fit another bolt in? Please any quick response would be very much appreciated! Thanks.
Old 07-13-2006, 04:55 PM
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Had the Same problem. The Aluminum Head stripes really easy. I was able to run a tap to chase the threads and fix it. You may have to tap it a little bigger.

So glad I pulled the motor this time makes things allot easier

Last edited by 4Hummer; 07-13-2006 at 04:56 PM.
Old 07-13-2006, 05:30 PM
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when i bolted everything up, i had such a hard time just getting those two pipes to go where I wanted them to, then bolt up at they're attachment points, i didn't even bother bolting them on the back of the head. when i pull the head again, i'm gonna try and put the head on with those bolted on (heck, the head came off with them bolted on, why shouldn't it go back on??).

plus i couldn't remember which one bolted to which hole since i was having difficulties lining them up in the back. any more trouble and I'm gonna pull the engine and do it that way. Ugh.
Old 07-13-2006, 06:28 PM
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The heads back on! Thanks to all of you who helped with the quick replies, a new longer bolt is in place of the stripped hole. I struggled with putting the two bottom bolts which held the pipes in for about an hour, and I was actually standing on the alternator bracket trying to get the bolts through some of that new RTV on the rear plate. I couldn't see at what angle I was putting them in, and the one on the left never got tight, so I believe I cross-threaded. I wanted to let anyone know who plans on replacing the HG on your 22RE to put the pipes on before you place the head on the block. Trying to thread the bolts in from the rear was by far the most difficult thing I tried to do so far!

That said, I planned on finishing the longblock tomorrow, and replacing the manifolds Saturday. Sunday will be testing/tuning/wrapping things up...I hope.

Thanks again for all the advice!

EWAYota - did the info that I gave you help? If not, I have pictures of my diagram you can take a look at.

Last edited by all_terrain17; 07-13-2006 at 06:30 PM.
Old 07-13-2006, 08:21 PM
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a Picture is worth a Million works


Old 07-14-2006, 10:45 AM
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Progress...

Made major progress this morning! Timing chain assembly, timing cover, as well as the oil and water pumps have all been installed. If this rate of progress keeps up, I'll have the truck running sooner than I thought.

New timing chain and sprockets


Guides and taped tensioner installed


Priming the oil pump


New timing cover, H2O pump, and oil pump


I did run into yet another problem however...the two oil pan bolts which had to be reinstalled. One went in, the other I could only mangle. The threads on the timing cover seem to be fine though, it's just the bolt I've had trouble with. The oil pan just slightly covers the hole you see on the right, and it's giving me trouble...I'm not in a big hurry to get these bolts in or anything since they're so easily accessible, but I do want your opinion on what to do.

I'll attempt to put the crank pulley on till then, and start on the manifolds later today.

After having these problems lately, I'll definitely do a write-up on this. I've yet to see another aside from Hayne's/Chilton's or a FSM and I want to help anyone I can.

Thanks again for your help!
Old 07-14-2006, 10:59 AM
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you really need a tap and die set my friend. I always chase all threads before installing any hardware
Old 07-14-2006, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by all_terrain17
Alright a quick reply here would be awesome and I could get back to work on the head gasket today. reinstalled the rear oil plate on the head, and left the two bolts out for the air pipe brackets which run around the back. Put the head on, and after about an hour of trying to thread the two bolts in from the back, I Finally got one in tight, but the other would never tighten. Pulled the head back off with the hoses and found that one of the holes got stripped somehow.

You can see the bolt hole for the oil plate on the back here...


Is it alright to just leave this bolt out? Or do I need to figure out a way to fit another bolt in? Please any quick response would be very much appreciated! Thanks.
Did any oil come out of that cover when you took it off? I'm replacing my clutch and noticed that plate and thought it may be a good idea to replace the seal before stabbing the tranny back in. Looks like it would be nearly impossible to replace it with the entire motor and tranny attached if a leak ever sprung up from there.
Old 07-14-2006, 04:46 PM
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Dunno if any oil came out since I left that on when I sent it to the machine shop. I doubt any did though, cause I was moving the flipping the head around on the bench cleaning the surfaces. If you feel you need to replace it, then I have no idea where you could get the gasket without going to Toyota or getting an entire head gasket set.
Old 07-14-2006, 05:10 PM
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Wow, you're doing great work!!! Keep going, man!!!

vmax84
Old 07-14-2006, 06:51 PM
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Stupid Mistake #2

Any wagers on how I managed to do this?


Don't install the crank sprocket backwards. I mistook that marking on the broken sprocket to be the alignment mark. It wasn't. Was adjusting the valves, and when I rotated the crank, I heard this sick crunch. Wanted to cry and throw up when I saw the crooked crank sprocket, and when I looked closely I could tell it was cracked. So off flew the timing cover again! (I think it took me about 10 mins max!) Stuffed rags into the oil pan, and the sprocket came apart as I pulled it off! I dodged another bullet though, as neither the chain nor the crank had any visible damage whatsoever. So I'm just gonna use the old crank sprocket. Despite the stupidity, there really isn't much work left to do and I should have it running by tomorrow if I manage not to do anything else stoopid.

EB - still wanna use this thread in your kits?
Old 07-14-2006, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by all_terrain17
EWAYota - did the info that I gave you help? If not, I have pictures of my diagram you can take a look at.
The info was great, I have yet to get to that point though. Going to order a new Timing Cover, timing chain set, gasket set, and water pump (debating on ordering a 268 cam or not, dont want to have to order rockers ontop of it) and pull everything back apart. Gonna be in Portland the 9th thru 11th so I might just swing by EB's and pick them up in person if thats possible to save on shipping since I'm way past my budget on this.

I'll be referring to this thread when I get back into mine, thanks for the great detailed photo and instructional write-up. I felt like I was doing some of it in the dark.
Old 07-15-2006, 04:37 AM
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Wow that is wild...

I can agree with you though, each time you have to take it back apart it gets easier and easier.

I did a complete teardown 3 times.

You'll get there eventually. If you're like me I was almost afraid to turn the key when I got it all together finally.
Old 07-15-2006, 05:33 AM
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I have a spare set you can have for the cost of shipping, they are brand new.

or use your old ones.

PM me if you want them

Last edited by 4Hummer; 07-15-2006 at 05:35 AM.
Old 07-15-2006, 06:15 AM
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Thanks

For all the encouragment. I really didn't feel like working on it when I woke up this morning, but having read the replies, I want to go get it done. Will update tonight - hopefully I won't do anything else stupid. I think I've damaged or used about everything I bought from engnbldr. So having run out of his parts after I replace the chain again, I think it'll be smooth sailing.

Thanks for the offer 4Hummer, but after almost a month of this I'm ready to be done.

EDIT: Looked at the timing chain closer, and it is damaged. Won't have another till monday...waiting on parts again...

Last edited by all_terrain17; 07-15-2006 at 07:58 AM.
Old 07-15-2006, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by all_terrain17
Any wagers on how I managed to do this?


Don't install the crank sprocket backwards. I mistook that marking on the broken sprocket to be the alignment mark. It wasn't. Was adjusting the valves, and when I rotated the crank, I heard this sick crunch. Wanted to cry and throw up when I saw the crooked crank sprocket, and when I looked closely I could tell it was cracked. So off flew the timing cover again! (I think it took me about 10 mins max!) Stuffed rags into the oil pan, and the sprocket came apart as I pulled it off! I dodged another bullet though, as neither the chain nor the crank had any visible damage whatsoever. So I'm just gonna use the old crank sprocket. Despite the stupidity, there really isn't much work left to do and I should have it running by tomorrow if I manage not to do anything else stoopid.

EB - still wanna use this thread in your kits?
>>>*K...You just showed me and explained what happens to about one case out of 200 or so that have been confusing the heck out of this old man.

*Time to add some more information to my bulletin I insert in the kits...bummer there, though...*EB
Old 07-16-2006, 02:22 PM
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by the way ,that plate on the back of the head covers the cooling passage in the head and ports egr gasses ,hole you cleaned the channel that runs through it ,and the machine shope cleaned the egr ports in the head..lol mine where stopped slam up when i got my turbo pickup.
Old 07-16-2006, 07:31 PM
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Almost there...


4Hummer - will do on the tap and die set. However, an M8 1.25 tap worked for every hole I needed. Saved my arse with an intake manifold stud.

My timing kit is gonna be cobbled together with my old crank sprocket, o'reilly's roller chain, EB's cam sprocket and guides. ghetto. I know.

The primary concern now is air and water tube leaks beneath the intake manifold.


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