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22re exhaust manifold stud upgrade
So I’ve recently discovered an exhaust leak right at the manifold and it is because of 1 or 2 factory studs stripped out on the head. From the research I have done I have seen pretty good reviews of switching the factory stud to a short block Chevy rocker arm stud. They say you can tap the stripped hole to the course 7/16. Now my questions are, 1) can I get away with replacing just the 2 stud with the sbc studs, or will I have to replace all 8 of them together. 2) I picked up a pack of the sbc studs and got the 3/8 fine thread tension locknuts (closest the factory locknut I could find) from a hardware store to fit the studs. Are these the best nuts to use or am I better off the just get a lock washer and regular nut. I did get a new ex. Man. Gasket so I really just need to know what others have done with their sbc stud replacements. |
This is why you use anti seize on steel studs in aluminum heads.
I would not retap a metric to some imperial - Do it "right" and helicoil it. |
You'll be fine just doing the stripped ones... the exhaust manifold doesn't care what studs you use...if you don't care they're not all the same... it's your motor do what you feel is the best option for you. A little copper coat will help with seizing...
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Originally Posted by ev13wt
(Post 52420120)
This is why you use anti seize on steel studs in aluminum heads.
I would not retap a metric to some imperial - Do it "right" and helicoil it. |
Will a 7/16" fastener fit through the holes in the manifold? 7/16" is over 11mm. I thought the studs were 8mm, but even if they're 10mm, I'd check first.
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Exhuast hardware is single use.. The oem studs are knurled and the nuts are pinched/staked.
I don't think even red locktite stands up to exhaust temps.. I would change them all, because I hate having mismatched hardware. |
FWIW, Toyota doesn't consider exhaust nuts to be "single use." http://web.archive.org/web/201208130...68cylinder.pdf
I'm sure Co_94 is speaking from experience. I have also had some trouble re-using exhaust nuts. (But then, i've had to cut some off with a grinder, too.) As for oil on the exhaust manifold, that oil would pyrolyze (burn) within seconds. If having burnt oil residue helps your gasket to seal, you've got more problems than oil will ever solve. |
Originally Posted by scope103
(Post 52420153)
Will a 7/16" fastener fit through the holes in the manifold? 7/16" is over 11mm. I thought the studs were 8mm, but even if they're 10mm, I'd check first.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...bc48c983f.jpeg the 7/16 coarse goes into the head and the other side is 3/8 fine. This is the nut I was questioning. It’s a tension locknut like the originals it just isn’t a flange nut |
Originally Posted by double Dz
(Post 52420238)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...d67bbdaf8.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...bc48c983f.jpeg the 7/16 coarse goes into the head and the other side is 3/8 fine. This is the nut I was questioning. It’s a tension locknut like the originals it just isn’t a flange nut |
Originally Posted by 87-4runner
(Post 52420265)
It's fine...
Scope is very correct, I have seen plenty of exhaust issues from re-used hardware. I am a big fan of the Toyota hardware for the simple fact you can stake them deeper and they aren't the knurled type. The knurled type eat away at the stud in the crucial part (the threads inside the nut thread) where the Toyota style have a stakable barrel at the top/outside. This results in the threads not degrading only the "unused bit" outside of the nut threads. In theory you could wear down the exposed portion of the thread several mm, compared to "maybe it chews off to much thread the first time, maybe the tenth" It is worth mentioning, albeit hindsight, you run the stud in by hand untill it binds or bottoms out then torque down the nut. It has a specific torque spec this means you should always be using your torque wrench. You will notice there is a chart with torque specs for each size and grade of hardware in your service manuals, this is a generic baseline. You'll also note some deviations for specific hardware, which is based on the thread depth and material it is in.. Yeah I'm the guy that cringes when you randomly baredown on bolts and nuts, or run things in with power tools! |
Having had my exhaust manifold off about 20kazillion times in the last 6 months...3 times to weld and put back on the oem cast iron one, 3 times to put on then repair a piece of crap Chinese header i bought off flea bay... the last time was when I bolted on the $$$$ LCEngineering manifold... I
mixed and matched, reused, modified, shimmed, and finally got a leakless exhaust ... the problem wasn't what studs or combination of nuts and washers... it was the crappy manifolds... |
Originally Posted by 87-4runner
(Post 52420324)
Having had my exhaust manifold off about 20kazillion times in the last 6 months...3 times to weld and put back on the oem cast iron one, 3 times to put on then repair a piece of crap Chinese header i bought off flea bay... the last time was when I bolted on the $$$$ LCEngineering manifold... I
mixed and matched, reused, modified, shimmed, and finally got a leakless exhaust ... the problem wasn't what studs or combination of nuts and washers... it was the crappy manifolds... |
Thanks the hood vents are strictly for function... the turbo engine bay area temps melt wires...so...
I'll get ya more pics... i used a single stage paint for the hood and just matched the other red at a auto paint supplier... the black is john deere muffler paint... in a rattle can... its expensive but great stuff, I've used it for years on side pipes, headers, and lots of other applications.. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2339077fc4.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...f99062cc9e.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...b5bfd7da0b.jpg |
Thanks the hood vents are strictly for function... the turbo engine bay area temps melt wires...so...
I'll get ya more pics... i used a single stage paint for the hood and just matched the other red at a auto paint supplier... the black is john deere muffler paint... in a rattle can... its expensive but great stuff, I've used it for years on side pipes, headers, and lots of other applications.. i used it on the topper as well... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2339077fc4.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...f99062cc9e.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...b5bfd7da0b.jpg |
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
(Post 52420271)
Yeah I'm the guy that cringes when you randomly baredown on bolts and nuts, or run things in with power tools!
It's never what you think is right. There is a lovely german saying: After tight comes "off" (Nach fest kommt ab) |
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