22-RE Fuel Rail Dampener Elimination Bolt Help
#1
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22-RE Fuel Rail Dampener Elimination Bolt Help
The dampener on the end of my fuel rail started leaking, so I looked it up and saw that it was common to take the dampener off and replace it with the bolt that comes on later versions of the engine, where it was just a banjo bolt on the end of the rail instead.
I saw the part number for this bolt listed as 90401-14010.
I ordered this part number from ToyotaPartsZone.com, and this is a photo of the bolt I got. I e-mailed them that it's the wrong bolt and should be a banjo/union bolt, but they claim it is the right part. Can anyone who's done this let me know if this IS the correct bolt or not?
I saw the part number for this bolt listed as 90401-14010.
I ordered this part number from ToyotaPartsZone.com, and this is a photo of the bolt I got. I e-mailed them that it's the wrong bolt and should be a banjo/union bolt, but they claim it is the right part. Can anyone who's done this let me know if this IS the correct bolt or not?
#3
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The Fuel Pressure Damper (not "Dampener") IS the banjo bolt (union bolt) for the first fuel line connection to the RT rail.
Myself, I wouldn't waste the time and money trying to redesign my truck; when my damper leaked I replaced it. I do note that part number is listed as a union bolt for that model/year. Why do you think it isn't? Your picture shows the part number, but what little I can see of the part looks like it might work.
Myself, I wouldn't waste the time and money trying to redesign my truck; when my damper leaked I replaced it. I do note that part number is listed as a union bolt for that model/year. Why do you think it isn't? Your picture shows the part number, but what little I can see of the part looks like it might work.
#4
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Thanks guys. All the threads I found on this talked about a banjo bolt. I thought there was a return line at the end of the rail, but I guess this bolt just plugs the end up? I'll take a closer look at it.
#6
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The advantage is not spending over $100 buying a new damper. The disadvantage so far is getting the right bolt.
I've read that Toyota took the damper off of the 22RE in the early 90's. I'm just replicating the change they made to save some cash.
I've read that Toyota took the damper off of the 22RE in the early 90's. I'm just replicating the change they made to save some cash.
#7
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The one I looked at is different from what your talking about my damper is on the front of the fuel rail where the hose from the fuel filter comes into the rail.
This is what I was thinking of the damper threads into the bottom of the rail.
Not sure just what year 22rec engine it came from quite a few in my shop.
I always sucked at spelling
This is what I was thinking of the damper threads into the bottom of the rail.
Not sure just what year 22rec engine it came from quite a few in my shop.
I always sucked at spelling
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#8
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The unit on the front (firewall side) of the rail is the pressure regulator. The damper is on the end (radiator) side of the rail.
Here's a better photo of the damper on the end of the rail, from this yotatech thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...r-leak-179253/
I thought the replacement bolt would need to be a banjo bolt to let that return line (pointing off to the left) work, but if this solid core bolt is the correct bolt, then that return line must be cast in to the rail and not a standard fuel line fitting like I thought it was.
I haven't taken everything apart yet, because I want to make sure I have the right parts to get it back together before I do.
Here's a better photo of the damper on the end of the rail, from this yotatech thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...r-leak-179253/
I thought the replacement bolt would need to be a banjo bolt to let that return line (pointing off to the left) work, but if this solid core bolt is the correct bolt, then that return line must be cast in to the rail and not a standard fuel line fitting like I thought it was.
I haven't taken everything apart yet, because I want to make sure I have the right parts to get it back together before I do.
#9
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The good news is my damper quit leaking after I replaced my fuel filter. But, this bolt wasn't cheap, so I'm trying to make sure they sent me the right one in case I ever do need it.
#10
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not that it matters to the [OP] now, but i bought a damper for my 87 22re two months ago, from rock auto, and paid $68.93 with shipping. the damper is different from the oem damper - there isn't a small screw at the bottom of it, which is where mine was leaking.
i'd be concerned about the damper anyway, if it was leaking. the fuel filter shouldn't really play a role in whether it leaked. but, it's your truck.
wally
i'd be concerned about the damper anyway, if it was leaking. the fuel filter shouldn't really play a role in whether it leaked. but, it's your truck.
wally
#11
on the later model 22re engines the damper was deleted, when deleteing the dampner that is the correct bolt part number but you would also need a different fuel line with a different size hole in it...
http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/toyefi.htm
http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/toyefi.htm
1983 - 1988 22REs used a fuel pressure pulsation damper to attach the banjo fitting on the fuel supply hose to the fuel rail. The damper was notorious for a tendency to leak after a few years in service and was eliminated beginning with the 1989 22RE trucks. The bore diameter of the supply hose banjo - previously oversized to accomodate the fat-bodied damper - was reduced, and a common hollow banjo bolt was used instead of the damper.
To eliminate the failure-prone (and expensive) pulsation damper on an 83-88 22RE, the 89+ filter-to-rail hose assembly as well as the banjo bolt and appropriately-sized copper washers may be obtainable from a junkyard. If not, they are readily available from Toyota.
There was also a noise problem associated with the 83-88 fuel rail. The return flow from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) back to the fuel tank would drop when the injectors opened, and then rise sharply when the injectors shut off. In some vehicles and particularly at idle, the abrupt pressure rise in the FPR return would cause the return hardline to rattle against the body, more or less in step with each crank rotation.
For a time there was a Toyota Tech Bulletin directing the installation of a restrictor in the FPR return hose to smooth out the pressure variations and quiet the rattle. Coincident with the damper elimination in 1989, a restrictor was incorporated directly in the FPR return port. The add-on restrictor then became redundant, and has since become unavailable.
If you're bothered by a return-line rattle in an 83-88 22RE, the obvious (and expensive) cure is to replace the original FPR with the 89+ part having a built-in restrictor. Or you could save money by making you own restrictor. Drill out the center of a 1/4-inch steel or brass rod; cut off a 1/4-inch drilled section; remove any burrs; round off any sharp edges; and insert the restrictor in the 6 mm hose at the FPR return port. The bore of the built-in restrictor is about 2.2 mm or .087 inch, so a #44 drill bit (.086) is a close match and even a 3/32 bit (.0938) should work OK.
To eliminate the failure-prone (and expensive) pulsation damper on an 83-88 22RE, the 89+ filter-to-rail hose assembly as well as the banjo bolt and appropriately-sized copper washers may be obtainable from a junkyard. If not, they are readily available from Toyota.
There was also a noise problem associated with the 83-88 fuel rail. The return flow from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) back to the fuel tank would drop when the injectors opened, and then rise sharply when the injectors shut off. In some vehicles and particularly at idle, the abrupt pressure rise in the FPR return would cause the return hardline to rattle against the body, more or less in step with each crank rotation.
For a time there was a Toyota Tech Bulletin directing the installation of a restrictor in the FPR return hose to smooth out the pressure variations and quiet the rattle. Coincident with the damper elimination in 1989, a restrictor was incorporated directly in the FPR return port. The add-on restrictor then became redundant, and has since become unavailable.
If you're bothered by a return-line rattle in an 83-88 22RE, the obvious (and expensive) cure is to replace the original FPR with the 89+ part having a built-in restrictor. Or you could save money by making you own restrictor. Drill out the center of a 1/4-inch steel or brass rod; cut off a 1/4-inch drilled section; remove any burrs; round off any sharp edges; and insert the restrictor in the 6 mm hose at the FPR return port. The bore of the built-in restrictor is about 2.2 mm or .087 inch, so a #44 drill bit (.086) is a close match and even a 3/32 bit (.0938) should work OK.
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