2 x 12 inch subs in the extended cab. good idea?
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have 2 12" duals (cheap i know) in a custom box in the back. With the type of music I listen to it sounds good, bass is at -5 on the stereo, and the amp turned way down but i get more hits out of the 2 subs than the one. listening to metallica, pantera, mudvayne, that kind of stuff, i think it sounds great. put on some tupac, and my amp switch is instantly off. with the right speakers up front to balance out the bass in the back i think it sounds pretty good, and i'm not "rattling my neighbors houses" so i don't get shot at. i can hardly hear it outside my truck.
#22
Registered User
is this an age related thing??..i dont see very many guys over 35yrs old with thumpin systems..lol
my system sounds amazing inside the cab..but the bass is not transferred out of the vehicle very much..from about 50ft away..you cant hardly hear the bass..
to each there own...isnt that the saying???...
i dont like a bobbed longbed..infact i WANT a longbed..but do i go around causing a big fuss every time does a bed bob???? no..so if you have nothing nice to say then dont say anything at all...
if the OP wants to put 2 18's in the back of his cab..let him..its his truck...
yes 2 12's is overkill..but i dont think it will harm your interior..but keep an eye on that back glass..it might not stay sealed..or it might crack or shatter..
my system sounds amazing inside the cab..but the bass is not transferred out of the vehicle very much..from about 50ft away..you cant hardly hear the bass..
to each there own...isnt that the saying???...
i dont like a bobbed longbed..infact i WANT a longbed..but do i go around causing a big fuss every time does a bed bob???? no..so if you have nothing nice to say then dont say anything at all...
if the OP wants to put 2 18's in the back of his cab..let him..its his truck...
yes 2 12's is overkill..but i dont think it will harm your interior..but keep an eye on that back glass..it might not stay sealed..or it might crack or shatter..
Last edited by Ezrider_92356; 08-07-2009 at 09:41 PM.
#23
Registered User
my amp is this Kicker KX350.4 its designed to run 4 subs...its 2 amps in one..i have one of the sides bridged..and it sounds amazing inside..but doesnt put ALOT of sound outside the vehicle..
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JzWwr3J...ephotos&a=&s=0 this amp not only runs my single 12..but it runs my 6.5's and my 6x9's..the sound quality is AMAZING over my original LA 750w amp..lol
#26
Contributing Member
It all depends on whether your looking for just boom or if you want good clean bass. I would recommend 2 10's. I have a single ported JL Audio 10" powered by about 300 watts rms in my 4Runner and it pounds. Just remember the bigger the speaker, the harder it is to control it (ie better bigger amp).
#28
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 9,076
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seriously the coolest DIY stereo mod I've seen.
OP,
I'd either go with one 12 or two 10's if you're looking for serious thump.
In that small of a space 2 12's will rattle and distort the sound before you can even hear it - if you're looking for bling then yeah, go for it.
If it were me, I'd get two nice 10's and make sure they were tuned right for the cab.
What is your main goal?
Quality sound or just thumpage?
Fink
Last edited by Fink; 08-08-2009 at 11:33 PM.
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
as an ex general manager of a high end audio/video shop, that statement is right, but wrong for a few reasons.
1) the average joe doesnt look at frequency ratings for subs when purchasing. 2)Nor do they take into consideration single coil vs dual coil, and proper box dimensions for optimum tuning of said frquency.
Here's a simplified view on how to buy a sub for a small vehicle.
for this example we'll use a commonly bought product - Alpines Type R subs.
Here are the ratings for each sub- 12" and 10'
SWR-1222D
12" Subwoofer (2Ω + 2Ω)
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 500W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 1500W
• Frequency Response: 23Hz - 500Hz
listed $400.00
SWR-1022D
10" Subwoofer (2Ω + 2Ω)
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 500W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 1500W
24Hz - 600kHz
$200.00
Based on these speakers, the 10" sub seems like the better deal does it not? A 10" mid level sub would not compete in SQ as well as a 12", because of the lack of 'bass representation' and not going as low in frequency. Regardless of rating, that 10" sub will work harder and take more punishment than the 12".
On the other hand, the 10" has a smaller minimum box dimension, and a tighter high frequency. so if your going for SQ , this would be the better choice based on the vehicle and musical preferences.
For DB, it will always have to come down to a lower ranged sub, with a higher diameter.
Keep in mind also, if your looking for air movement in the cab, the 12" would push more, and 'feel' more responsive.
I personally have never, in all my show cars, ran a 12" sub. it has always been dual 10", or a single 10" dual voice coil (if you are running 1 10" I highly recommend a dual voice coil, for more stable reproduction of a diverse range of music genres.)
This being said, a high end audio system usually needs a 12" sub to compensate. Remember when running a full stereo setup, you dial down almost all the low frequncey in your components/drivers, and let the sub handle the low end. This is another common mistake people make when buying stereo components.
Hopefully that helped a bit.
1) the average joe doesnt look at frequency ratings for subs when purchasing. 2)Nor do they take into consideration single coil vs dual coil, and proper box dimensions for optimum tuning of said frquency.
Here's a simplified view on how to buy a sub for a small vehicle.
for this example we'll use a commonly bought product - Alpines Type R subs.
Here are the ratings for each sub- 12" and 10'
SWR-1222D
12" Subwoofer (2Ω + 2Ω)
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 500W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 1500W
• Frequency Response: 23Hz - 500Hz
listed $400.00
SWR-1022D
10" Subwoofer (2Ω + 2Ω)
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 500W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 1500W
24Hz - 600kHz
$200.00
Based on these speakers, the 10" sub seems like the better deal does it not? A 10" mid level sub would not compete in SQ as well as a 12", because of the lack of 'bass representation' and not going as low in frequency. Regardless of rating, that 10" sub will work harder and take more punishment than the 12".
On the other hand, the 10" has a smaller minimum box dimension, and a tighter high frequency. so if your going for SQ , this would be the better choice based on the vehicle and musical preferences.
For DB, it will always have to come down to a lower ranged sub, with a higher diameter.
Keep in mind also, if your looking for air movement in the cab, the 12" would push more, and 'feel' more responsive.
I personally have never, in all my show cars, ran a 12" sub. it has always been dual 10", or a single 10" dual voice coil (if you are running 1 10" I highly recommend a dual voice coil, for more stable reproduction of a diverse range of music genres.)
This being said, a high end audio system usually needs a 12" sub to compensate. Remember when running a full stereo setup, you dial down almost all the low frequncey in your components/drivers, and let the sub handle the low end. This is another common mistake people make when buying stereo components.
Hopefully that helped a bit.
#30
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 9,076
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
as an ex general manager of a high end audio/video shop, that statement is right, but wrong for a few reasons.
1) the average joe doesnt look at frequency ratings for subs when purchasing. 2)Nor do they take into consideration single coil vs dual coil, and proper box dimensions for optimum tuning of said frquency.
Here's a simplified view on how to buy a sub for a small vehicle.
for this example we'll use a commonly bought product - Alpines Type R subs.
Here are the ratings for each sub- 12" and 10'
SWR-1222D
12" Subwoofer (2Ω + 2Ω)
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 500W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 1500W
• Frequency Response: 23Hz - 500Hz
listed $400.00
SWR-1022D
10" Subwoofer (2Ω + 2Ω)
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 500W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 1500W
24Hz - 600kHz
$200.00
Based on these speakers, the 10" sub seems like the better deal does it not? A 10" mid level sub would not compete in SQ as well as a 12", because of the lack of 'bass representation' and not going as low in frequency. Regardless of rating, that 10" sub will work harder and take more punishment than the 12".
On the other hand, the 10" has a smaller minimum box dimension, and a tighter high frequency. so if your going for SQ , this would be the better choice based on the vehicle and musical preferences.
For DB, it will always have to come down to a lower ranged sub, with a higher diameter.
Keep in mind also, if your looking for air movement in the cab, the 12" would push more, and 'feel' more responsive.
I personally have never, in all my show cars, ran a 12" sub. it has always been dual 10", or a single 10" dual voice coil (if you are running 1 10" I highly recommend a dual voice coil, for more stable reproduction of a diverse range of music genres.)
This being said, a high end audio system usually needs a 12" sub to compensate. Remember when running a full stereo setup, you dial down almost all the low frequncey in your components/drivers, and let the sub handle the low end. This is another common mistake people make when buying stereo components.
Hopefully that helped a bit.
1) the average joe doesnt look at frequency ratings for subs when purchasing. 2)Nor do they take into consideration single coil vs dual coil, and proper box dimensions for optimum tuning of said frquency.
Here's a simplified view on how to buy a sub for a small vehicle.
for this example we'll use a commonly bought product - Alpines Type R subs.
Here are the ratings for each sub- 12" and 10'
SWR-1222D
12" Subwoofer (2Ω + 2Ω)
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 500W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 1500W
• Frequency Response: 23Hz - 500Hz
listed $400.00
SWR-1022D
10" Subwoofer (2Ω + 2Ω)
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 500W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 1500W
24Hz - 600kHz
$200.00
Based on these speakers, the 10" sub seems like the better deal does it not? A 10" mid level sub would not compete in SQ as well as a 12", because of the lack of 'bass representation' and not going as low in frequency. Regardless of rating, that 10" sub will work harder and take more punishment than the 12".
On the other hand, the 10" has a smaller minimum box dimension, and a tighter high frequency. so if your going for SQ , this would be the better choice based on the vehicle and musical preferences.
For DB, it will always have to come down to a lower ranged sub, with a higher diameter.
Keep in mind also, if your looking for air movement in the cab, the 12" would push more, and 'feel' more responsive.
I personally have never, in all my show cars, ran a 12" sub. it has always been dual 10", or a single 10" dual voice coil (if you are running 1 10" I highly recommend a dual voice coil, for more stable reproduction of a diverse range of music genres.)
This being said, a high end audio system usually needs a 12" sub to compensate. Remember when running a full stereo setup, you dial down almost all the low frequncey in your components/drivers, and let the sub handle the low end. This is another common mistake people make when buying stereo components.
Hopefully that helped a bit.
Sounds like you should go with two 10's though.
Fink
#32
Registered User
I've never seen a larger bunch of old ladies in one thread before anywhere...
To say it's stupid to put 2 12's in a truck is the same thing as someone else saying an SAS kills the value of the truck and isn't needed, or that it's dumb to put a locker in because it makes the truck unsafe on wet roads. If he wants bass and can afford the 12's he wants it's his business. Just because they're installed in the truck doesn't mean they'll play at full db everytime he turns the truck on. You guys do know there's a volume knob right?
This is about personal preference.
To say it's stupid to put 2 12's in a truck is the same thing as someone else saying an SAS kills the value of the truck and isn't needed, or that it's dumb to put a locker in because it makes the truck unsafe on wet roads. If he wants bass and can afford the 12's he wants it's his business. Just because they're installed in the truck doesn't mean they'll play at full db everytime he turns the truck on. You guys do know there's a volume knob right?
This is about personal preference.
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
right on ovrrdrive!! Thanks for the replies guys! I decided to not go for the 2x12 jl since it seemed like a overkill and takes way too much space. I know im gona regret this, but practicality is more important here.
Im going for one jl 12w6 or 12w7 instead!! with 500/1 jl amp.
Im going for one jl 12w6 or 12w7 instead!! with 500/1 jl amp.
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: san jose cali
Posts: 703
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
shoot for the w7 those are top notch as far as sound pressure levels go... and the w6 is a better sound quality sub than the more expensive big brother.
im about to put 3 13.5'' w7's in a blow-through box in the bed with a port tuned to 32hz...
my neighbors love me ..
im about to put 3 13.5'' w7's in a blow-through box in the bed with a port tuned to 32hz...
my neighbors love me ..
#35
Good decision. When I was 15 I would have said screw the 2 12's, make it 4 12's! I try to make more educated decisions now that I'm not a teenager anymore.
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: san jose cali
Posts: 703
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a nice set of ear plugs and youll have a killer back massage..
people give me funny looks when i put my shooting ear protection on and crank it..
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tucson,AZ
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have 2 12in. kicker cvr's in my 93 xcab and it is a little overkill, tho i love it XP the pic is from my cell (sorry) and its when i had my old P2 Punches in it. Im running a 4channel Performance Technique that pushes about 800 between the two of em. And the back window is cracked now.
#38
Two 12s are never overkill. I have some 15s in a truck and wish I had more. Drive-ins are way too cool with 2000+ watts RMS power to back the movie. You really feel the hits, hard.
http://www.carstereo.com/installs/ph...w=1&maxrows=12
Wish I had that much room in my Toyota....
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kent, Washington
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How big's your extended cab? is it the 90's verision or the late 80's? I've got a apline type R `10" and two 6x9's in a custom box that I made in my 86' extended cabwhich in my opinion is loud enough. I think two 12's would be way too much
#40
Registered User
Running one 10 inch planet audio, 300 watt amp, crappy deck, and pioneer stock size fronts. Buffet sounds good, Unearth sounds good, and DGAF sounds good. It fits, BUT, thats MY personal preference.