Joe333

I have someone in the family who has a Toyota Tacoma, that isn't starting. It is cranking, but not turning over. Note, that the fuel filter was replaced. For some time after that, the truck started and ran fine. Then after the battery was changed, it still ran fine for some time. Then for some reason the truck wouldn't start. My dad has a scan tool, and because he saw the code for catalytic converter, he is convinced that this is why it wouldn't start. Then after erasing the codes, new codes showed up without the code for the catalytic converter.

I strongly believe that he could have a bad fuse, bad battery (yes it was an everstart battery from that place called Walmart), or the fuel pump. A few days ago we tried cranking it and he stated that, it would crank, but no fuel would come through the system. He also said that the vehicle would die on him, while he was driving. We are now going to get the receipt to return the battery. Walmart wants to exchange the battery for another battery that will probably fail again. The battery after taking it out, and beginning to charge it, read that it was at 25% amp power.

What does someone think of this?

scope103

I believe the 3.4L is found in the Tacoma, not 4Runners. So you might get better traction in that section. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/

Now that I've announced I know nothing about the 3.4L, if you were working on a 4Runner/Pickup I would say you have a VAF/COR problem. The Circuit Opening Relay powers the fuel pump, it's initially closed with the key to STArt, and then a switch in the Vane Air Flow meter closes to hold the relay closed. A bad COR means the fuel pump doesn't run. It's trivially easy to check; jumper FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector; if it now runs you've identified the problem.

Is the 3.4L wired that way? I don't know, but my guess is your fuel pump is not running.

By the way: Vocabulary counts. If the starter cranks, it is turning the engine over. I'm guessing your engine is turning over, but not "catching", or not "firing."

And it is definitely not your battery. If it can turn the starter, it has plenty of power. Leave poor Walmart alone.

Joe333

Im not sure if the 4 runner is wired the same way as a toyota tacoma. Glad to know its not necessarily the battery, although the battery icon stays on, so I dont know. It should definitely be the fuel pump though. It is a test to take out, but not too hard. I have seen how to vids to dismount the fuel tank to get the fuel pump. For all I know so far, there could be a bad fuse too. He mentioned something about the relay, or efi fuse too. I will look up some fuel pumps. Do you recommend ebay?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Without knowing just what new codes you have your wasting your time.

Since a Cat code can be tripped by as little as a exhaust leak

The wire harnesses between a Tacoma and 4Runner with the same engine are different enough to be interesting

Scope103 it is some what like the old system using a MAF sensor to detect air volume then the ECM energizes the coil on the COR

With the OBD II you need to know the codes some will turn off the fuel.

Pointing you in the correct direction is a big help

A Cat Code will not keep it from running

Always remember any code is the complete circuit not just the sensor

Not Having a EWD for a 95 looking at mine for a 97 4Runner 3.4 there is no check connector not sure if it was there in the first year

Joe333

Thats right the MAF sensor could be dirty too. I truly hope its not an exhaust leak. What I don't get is that certain codes can shut off the fuel, that is weird. Learn something new everyday! I didnt know codes can turn things off

Joe333

Sorry for the double post. the trouble codes that we got from scanning the truck were p0335 and p0340, and they both have to do with the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft (A) circuit. He erased the codes before getting the two codes for the crankshaft and camshaft, and the catalytic converter code went away and hasnt returned. He did mention that he was getting backfire and misfiring (which is obvious). Not sure if they are the same term though. He thought it was the catalytic converter causing it not to start.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Both the crank and cam sensor codes will turn off fuel

The ECM thinks the engine is not running so fuel is shut off

Joe333

ouch! That makes sense, so if we can replace both of those then the truck should start up? It was stated that it isnt necessarily the battery, and it does turn on and turns over but does not ignite. My old man said that the fuel pump isnt giving gas while cranking. That makes perfect sense. Thanks Wyoming9!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Remember it is the complete sensor circuit. The sensor wiring or the ECM

I sometimes forget people sometimes don`t bother to check if the timing belt broke which would give the cam sensor code

Joe333

This is probably stupid of me to use as an anology. On my camry, my timing belt snapped on me, at a red light intersection, last year. When that happened my vehicle wouldn't even crank to turn over. The timing belt could be fine, but when he was able to start it up some time ago, we did hear weird sounds like it sounds if you don't put the right spark plug wires in the right cylinders. I experienced this when trying to change my spark plug wires. If it is still cranking, but not turning over, it might not be the timing belt. Also something drained his battery badly too, as it might Just be a bad defective battery. He found the receipt and we will try to with a different battery first. Then the alt, then the camshaft/timing belt.

Joe333

Okay, its been a while, and after getting two codes p0335, and p0340, we decided to try getting the part for the crankshaft position sensor. We are having a "fun time" of trying to locate the sensor area. The model is the "base/ standard extended cab" model, not a sr5 or T100. I was told that it was just under the alternator on the driver's side. Need some direction here. Thanks for the advice everyone gave last year!

irab88

iTrader: (4)

From when I did my engine swap. It might be easiest to get to from the driver's side wheel-well.

Joe333

Wow I will save this picture and text it to him. Is this the same engine as 3.4l 1995 toyota tacoma? Do you have another picture that shows another angle for the other end. This one looks like the electrical end piece. Didnt know that electrical end was that close behind the crankshaft pulley...thanks!

irab88

iTrader: (4)

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/t...on+sensor,7196

Some pics and prices

Joe333

I keep seeing these. However I ordered this auto part by denso, off of ebay saying it would fit the 95 tacoma 3.4L

Some parts I have seen have two sides for screws and others like what you are showing me only has one. Here is the link to the page at the bottom. Im so worried that I ordered the wrong part.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/292389096057?ul_noapp=true

Joe333

Here is an update. I was able to finally locate this part. Unfortunately the part I ordered was for the wrong engine. There is this grease that has been leaking out, and it hid the sensor well. Also that grease was smeared all over the wiring. If you look at the pic you showed me, its around the adapter and the end area of the wiring, and especially hiding the end that gets bolted in! I need suggestions. Should I just clean the part, or replace it? Also, I heard about the crankshaft grease that needs to be refilled somehow. Not sure about how to do that. Something is definitely leaking and it might be the seal for the crankshaft. Need help here, and thanks!