4Runaway

I ran a check on some threads looking for the process of replacing the low-beam lamps for my headlight on my '95 4Runner. I saw that others mentioned that 94-95's are a bit different than previous or later years. I just want to make sure I replace them as efficiently as possible.

The approach I'm taking is as follows (let me know if I'm completely wrong or on target):

1. I am removing the glass for the side lights.
2. I am, then, removing the front grill by depressing the clips that are visible on top of the grill while the hood is open (not sure if there are other clips or screws).
3. There are two clips on each headlight that appears to connect the headlight glass to the housing. I'm assuming that by unclipping these clips, that the headlight glass will be removed and all I would then need to perform is pull the lamp from the housing and replace it.

Does this sound right?

Dublin

Replacing the bulb or the lens? The bulb is just plugged into the back of the lens, if I remember correctly you have just enough room to wiggle it out without removing anything. The grill has clips, both upper and lower that need to be disengaged and the lens will have 4 mounting screws.

4Runaway

I am replacing the bulb, I presume. Only one side is out, but I figure I would replace both at the same time. I can see, on the passenger side, the bulb housing extends behind the headlight housing. However, I just can't seem to reach. That's why I'm taking the frontal approach by removing the glass lens of the headlight, and then remove the bulb. Just not sure if this is the right approach.

However, I did not know of the clips below the grill. I'll need to look closer.

wardriver

Yea...like Dublin said...they just twist lock into the back of the headlight assembly. The low beam and high beam are in one bulb. 9004 is the bulb number. I'm looking to swap in a brighter set myself.

4Runaway

Kewl. That's good to know. I'll look up the number too.

Although, on the passenger side, it looks like I'll need to move the batter and the washer fluid reservoir to gain back access. On the driver's side, it looks like the air intake is in the way. Doesn't look like a quick and simple process, unfortunately.

Muddy Runner

it only takes around a half hour. you have to take the battery out. and on the driver side you just take the plastic part of the top, over the light. it takes some finesse but it was not too hard for me. you do not have to remove the washer fluid container.

4Runaway

Well, I replaced the bulbs. I was planning on going the route you mentioned, Muddy Runner, but having never approached it that way, I did not want to start a process that was fruitless. However, I'm sure that route would have been an efficient solution.

The process I took was from a frontal approach. And I decided to replace both bulbs at the same time since I figured the other would fail shortly after I repaired the first one. I performed the following steps:

1. Removed the side lamps: I removed the side turn signal lamp casings that were only held in by two screws. Removing them, I left them just hanging lightly to the side still connected to the wires. Removing the side lights exposes 2 bolts that hold the headlight casings in place.

2. Remove the Grill: I then began the delicate, and somewhat forceful, process of unclipping the plastic grill for removal so that I could have complete access to all the remaining bolts that hold the headlight in place. My truck is a 1995 4Runner, so that clips that hold the grill in place are a bit more brittle than they were back in 1997, when I last took off the grill (I remembered this as I was disassembling everything).

Anyway, I used a screwdriver to try and depress each clip so that they would release from the body. The series of top clips took some doing, and three cracked and some pieces came off. But, there are three main clips that are toward the bottom of the grill that look similar became a pain. The screw driver only helped a bit, but it took me reaching my hand between the radiator and the metal panel that the grill is connected to grab the back of each connecter, squeeze clip from the bottom, and push them forward.

I then released the clips at the very bottom of the grill, underneath the grill above the bumper on the left and right, and the grill came loose. It would have come completely off, but my truck has a push bar on it. No clearance to remove the grill. But no matter, I was able to see all the headlight bolts.

3. I removed the two bolts that were exposed by the removal of the side lamps. I removed the top bolt that was visible after removing the grill. I only loosened the bolt that became visible by removing the grill at the bottom, just above the bumper. Lifting the headlight housing a bit to release the piece that keeps the headlight housing in place, the housing fell forward a bit, and I could access the back of the headlight.

4. The simplest part was reaching behind the headlamp housing, unplug the electrical cord from the lamp (bulb), removed the locking collar, and removed the lamp (bulb).

5. I replaced the bulb and, most important at this point, I tested the bulbs in low and high beam mode before reassembling everything. All was good!

6. I reversed the above procedure after replacing the bulb.

That was it. Now that I know how to do this, it was actually quite simple. I just hate breaking brittle plastic. But, what does one do? Plastic gets old. It gets brittle. However, when I pieced everything back together, the pieces that broke did not break bad enough to prevent a nice tight fit. So, once everything was replaced, it looked good and as firm as new.

Thx for the replies everyone. I posted this sort of lengthy follow-up for reference in case anyone else was curious. And yes, Wardriver, the number 9004 was correct. Although there were many varieties and prices ranging from sixteen bucks for a pair to sixty bucks a pair. I only went with the one step up from OEM that was 20% brighter that were nineteen bucks a pair since I did not know how well the Super X's really worked.