Barnski

Hey all,

So i've been having the standard trouble with my rear window on the tailgate of my 93 4runner.

It wasn't working when I bought the vehicle a few weeks ago, but I could hear relays clicking when trying to wind both up and down, so I took the motor out and connected it to the battery and it didn't work. Stripped it down, cleaned and greased appropriate parts and used the lead from a 4B pencil on all the parts that don't want to be greased, and rebuilt. Tested on the battery and it worked fine. Greased up the regulator arms and all moving parts in there, replaced the motor and with a bit of encouragement the window was working again, though a little slow and still needing some assitance on the way up.

I was happy with that until this morning when it stopped going down.
Removed the motor but kept it wired in, and it works fine going up, but no signs of life and no clicking from the relay when trying to put the window down again. Wiper is in the home position, and the door is fully shut- though i assume in any event that if these switches were causing the problem the motor wouldn't go in the up direction either.

I have been using some of the following useful resources, along with my Haynes manual.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...ay-repair.html

I have removed the circuit board so I can have a look at the relays, but unfortunately its different to the ones shown in the above links.
Also, the wiring is in different colours to what I have on my vehicle.

Below is a picture of my circuit board, and I would really like to know which relays are responsible for what, given that everything else works fine, I dont want to go pulling apart bits that aren't broken.

They are labled thus:

RY3 RY4
RY5 RY6
RY1 RY2

If anyone could help me identify the functions of each that would be amazing.

I would also like to carry out the quick fix here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Relay
But I'm not sure if the pins on my circuit board will have the same function. Can anyone clarify this?

EDIT: also trying to find a wiring diagram with the appropriate coloured wires- I have Green and Red going to my motor, whereas my Haynes manual and other places I have referenced suggest that these should be Blue. the 12V into the circuit board, ground, and power to the motor is easy to identify, as well as from the key switch at the back to the circuit board but I'm having trouble working out the others- specifically the switch from the center console.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Barnski

Well it turns out that the while the rear wiper was in the home position it wasn't seen that way by the system. I would guess that was the case anyway- I ran the rear wiper and made sure it was in the right place as one of my earlier tests, but just now i accidentally hit the wiper switch while driving and thought I would try out the window once id turned it off and it worked fine again.
So that's nice but I would still like to replace the up and down relays as the motor is still struggling on the way back up. If anybody can identify these that would be great!

scope103

I don't have a ForeRunner so I can't help you with your specific question.

BUT: before I started replacing relays, I'd take a few more steps to assure that's the problem. For instance, jumper 12v directly to the motor. If it still struggles, you probably have too much friction in the system. A little dry-lube in the rubber tracks could help.

If power direct to the window solves your problem, the relays are suspect (particularly if it is only a problem in one direction), but so are all the connectors.

You could try using an "automotive stethoscope" http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-41966.html to determine which relays are switching when someone else works the control switch.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

All the electrical manual gives you is the pin outs for this .

I have had motors work fine with no load put on a load they do what yours does.

If you work on boards you know the problem is getting the old parts off without effecting the others with the amount of heat needed to desolder.

rockdr

I have a 95 2nd gen- board is same as yours. Cheap Trick looks like dealing with first gen so I wouldn't try for those fixes. Google NTE relay R46-5D12-12 and you will get the spec sheet for the R46 series. This relay drops right in. De-soldering was not a problem with a solder-sucker. One thing I found is that you can test the relays on the board. If the solder is crowned to the top of the pin, you need 4 hands. If enough pin sticks up to grasp with a mini clip, you can do it yourself. I rigged a 12 volt source with a tiny switcher power supply from a Wifi router. I found I did not have a relay problem. I finally started looking at the wiper motor and the position detection. You can use a paper clip to jumper the detection in the connector to the motor (on the car side.) When I pulled off the motor, I found that the grease had collected on the low side and had locked the detection contact up. Truck has lived in southern AZ all its life. I am looking for new grease while the window goes up & down with either key or console switch. Took a lot of work over the years to get here. Grrrrr!

rockdr

Oops. RY1 & RY2 (the "bottom" two) are the relays of interest for window. Save yourself a lot of trouble pulling trim and pull the cover off the wiper motor area, jumper the switch and you can get the window down to make any other access a lot easier. I think cleaning out the old grease and re-lubing will take care of most problems. I will try to post some pictures when I get the car back again - my wife is using it.