1992 pickup 3.0 missfire? smoke? cylinder1?
 

Hey everyone its been a while since i had to post on here! which i think is good but i got issues now. here we go..

this winter i rolled my truck nothing got damaged cosmetically or internally just oil reached the head so i pulled the plugs disconnected spark and fuel and cranked it and blew all the oil out. good? installed new plugs (without new wires) put the air box assemble back together and turn the key.. Alright!! fired right up smoked like a son of a gun for a day or 2. that was about 5 months ago. truck ran mint... until today started it for work this morning no problem. got to work no problem. went to go leave work... problem. i turned the key and it fired right up but.. it was definitely missing. so i said oh cmon why you missing as i revved it up the miss went away so i was like must just be a tiny hiccup no biggie. got home about 10 miles from work. and back into my driveway and let it idle and it started missing again.. so i turn it off. parking brake dont work and my driveway is slanted so i hop out and get my wheel chalk so i can have it idle in neutral in my yard while im under the hood looking for anything... start it back up and smoke just barrels out of exhaust pipe so i turn it of first thought is to check plugs. i go to check plug on cylinder #3 first..why #3? idk just did. and the wire rips right out of the plug cap on the wire so so now the metal clip is still on plug wire unattached. great. now its guaranteed i need new wires. whatever go to pull plug on cylinder 3 its good nothing looks abnormal.i replace plug anyways. moving on to cylinder 1 and pull the cap off plug. no problem.. then i remove number 1 plug and uhoh it looks fouled... has oil on it. now curious..i replaced the plug. long story condensed a little i changed all the plugs and put new wires on.. cross my fingers its good. finally go to start back up and hey running good. at least for a bit. went for about a mile test ride and about half way through it started missing again. get back home and let it idle in neutral its missing and its smoking a lot. rev it up to 3,000 rpm and the miss goes away and smoke goes away. let off gas and starts missing and starts smoking.. every once and a while if i rev it up and let it go back to an idle it wont miss or smoke. feed it a tiny tiny bit of throttle and it starts to miss and smoke again. if i hold it at or above 3000 its good once below no good. have not pulled plug number 1 again yet but im guessing it fouled again? i have no check engine light either it never came one once. seems if you try to put a load on engine very slightly it will miss as well as letting off slowly it will miss. but if you just tromp on it to 3500 or so it wont miss. i know this all lot to understand so please if anyone has any question on what im talking about let me know so i can try to clarify myself. a little more back ground on the truck about 20,000 miles ago the 1,3,5 side of engine was redone. burnt valve so that side is technically new? and now again trouble over there. but before when the valve was burnt i drove it and there would be no smoke... just no power... someone please give me some good answers. thank you in advance for taking the time to read all this. but need help! smoke does not smell like burning oil.. seems to smell rich will unburnt fuel make white smoke?

Need to do a compression test. Lots of oil on the plugs means the rings are worn and it may have broken a piston ring.

Could have worn valve guides and or valve stem seals. I know you said it was not to long ago they were worked on. Compression test for sure would be the first step.

replying to both of your comments seeming there kind of similar... unfortunately the weather is not working in my favor right now and i dont exactly have a garage.. i have not been able to do a complete compression test yet... but. what i think is happening is the head gasket failed between the coolant port and cylinder one which is causing the coolant to enter the cylinder and cause the miss which is also causing the smoke. i just started it quickly and it was not missing but it was smoking so maybe the plug wasnt fouling but indeed burning the coolant causing the smoke. so what i did was topped off radiator and left the cap off. disconnected the efi system and spark turned the key over and cranked it to see if i could see maybe hear or see bubbles from the compression leaking back into the radiator? im guessing because the water pump is driven with the timing belt it shot a little bit of coolant up and out of radiator but i cranked to the point it wasnt overflowing anymore and stop cranking quickly running and putting my ear up to the radiator fill hole and i can hear bubbling. the engine is not hot what so ever so its not a boiling type of bubbling. its about 40 degrees right now. so could the bubbles that im hearing actually be the compression from the cylinders leaking back into the radiator and be trying to escape out through the cap? it all seems like thats what would be happening but then again im not to sure if thats a possibility.
thanks for your input tho guys my next test i think is to try and pressurize the radiator and see if i can get the opposite effect. pull the #1 spark plug rotate crank by hand so piston is near top and see if i can get coolant to enter the cylinder so i can see into plug hole? tell me thats a way of checking? i also dont have my hands on a compression tester... yet.... o o oreillies has one to rent for 165

thanks agian! will update asap!!!

You can run a pressure test on the cooling system to find out if it is holding or not. A poor mans compression tester is an air hose with a shut of valve connected to the cylinder on top dead center. With a bad head gasket could send air pressure into the cooling system, into exhaust if exhaust valve, into intake if intake valve, or crankcase if rings. No more than 90 psi. Then listen for air leakage. Check your oil pan for water too.

All that seems to make sense to me, just not to sure what the "poor mans comp. tester" is supposed to look like..

I doubt there would be anything on the market. It was what I saw and used in my younger days. You could look at an aircraft engine differential compression tester, This is similar to what i'm talking about. I know it is airplanes but an engine is an engine. A compression tester just gives you cylinder pressure when the starter is used.It does not tell you where the problem is. The poor mans tester gives you time to hunt it down with out burning up your starter. .https://video.eaa.org/detail/video/2...mpression-test Hope this helps.

3VZE Cylinders #1& #6
 

When the head gasket let's go it is usually one or the other of these two cylinders. The compression ring or u shaped steel edge in composite head gaskets are not round but are fish mouthed to allow the valves to clear things when they extend. Those loby areas of the gasket make the distance to a couple of water galleries the shortest distance to the combustion chamber. So when the PO installed FeldPros
the material at this blind water gallery sort of burst into the block and ruptured and with time eroded away to the point were the ring collapsed and then the antifreeze and the cylinder were able to swap fluid and compression gasses until the steam was flowing from the tail pipe. When this happens the EGR on #1 will effectively put coolant through the EGR valve into the other cylinders as I had tried to baby it off the freeway. #6 shares the same geometry in the head gasket and if stock has the added benefit of being right next to the y joint in the exhaust manifolds for added external heating of the head. My guess is that you are on the cusp of this failure materializing in your head gasket on #1!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3735d025d7.jpg
the bolt that leaks is in under the intake manifold.right behind that timing cover.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...93a261307f.jpg
so here is what i figured out so far. if i put cylinder 1 at tdc and put air into that cylinder and i can hear bubbles in the radiator, also there is a what seems to be a bolt leaking as well. the bolt is directly under the intake manifold on top of the engine. the bolt goes downward its like right behind that plastic timing cover.
so im assuming that the head gasket is bad. can anyone give me some pointer of what to do and what not to do when it comes to pulling it all apart to change that headgasket. i assuming i just have to tear down till i get there and remember how to put it all back. what do i look for on my path of removing everything? what will i all need to do this process. parts?torque specs? just instructions in general... thanks for the help everyone!