1992 pickup 22re - rattle at cold start
12-12-2016, 02:45 PM
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1992 pickup 22re - rattle at cold start
I've got a 92 pickup with ~160k that has developed a rattle at startup that I need help identifying. It really only does it if the truck has sat for a few days and I start it with the temps below freezing. I'm running Castro gtx 10w-40 just changed less than 1k ago, with a Toyota yzzd-1 filter. This noise persists at startup for a minute or two then goes away completely. I don't have any weird sounds or issues when driving.
I had the timing chain replaced 30k ago, but im not sure the mechanics did a good job based on other issues I've had since then. I had the rear half moon on my valve cover leak all over my engine, and I didn't think to look at the timing chain guides when I had the valve cover off. I also noticed when I changed the oil, the old toyota filter had zero oil in it, so I'm wondering if letting it sit for a few days allows the oil to drain back and I have oil pressure issues at startup, although I would think that would only take a few seconds to build up. This is a base model 2wd, so I don't have the sr-5 cluster to tell what the pressure is.
I think I am overdue for a valve adjustment, an am going to pull the cover and check the valves and timing chain guides. Do I need to remove the spark plugs to crank the pistons to TDC? I'm pretty new to working on my truck so I apologize if something sounds incorrect. Edit: I started the truck up after sitting for 8 hours in the 30s and it made zero noise.
Here's a few videos I captured of the noise. The rattle is evident from a distance, but is hard to pinpoint when standing there. It sounds like it might be coming from the bottom front of the engine but I'm uncertain.
I had the timing chain replaced 30k ago, but im not sure the mechanics did a good job based on other issues I've had since then. I had the rear half moon on my valve cover leak all over my engine, and I didn't think to look at the timing chain guides when I had the valve cover off. I also noticed when I changed the oil, the old toyota filter had zero oil in it, so I'm wondering if letting it sit for a few days allows the oil to drain back and I have oil pressure issues at startup, although I would think that would only take a few seconds to build up. This is a base model 2wd, so I don't have the sr-5 cluster to tell what the pressure is.
I think I am overdue for a valve adjustment, an am going to pull the cover and check the valves and timing chain guides. Do I need to remove the spark plugs to crank the pistons to TDC? I'm pretty new to working on my truck so I apologize if something sounds incorrect. Edit: I started the truck up after sitting for 8 hours in the 30s and it made zero noise.
Here's a few videos I captured of the noise. The rattle is evident from a distance, but is hard to pinpoint when standing there. It sounds like it might be coming from the bottom front of the engine but I'm uncertain.
Last edited by trenolds39; 12-12-2016 at 03:48 PM.
12-14-2016, 10:50 AM
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Do this on a cold engine: Take the belts off and start it and let it run for a short time, just long enough to listen for that rattle. If the rattle is still there with all the accessories disconnected it's in the engine. If the rattle goes away then it's in the accessories, and you'd need to spin every pulley/device by hand to check for any drag/noise to locate the source of the sound. From the lower video I get the impression you need to check the idler/tensioner pulley bearing for sure.
02-05-2017, 10:31 AM
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I finally got around to troubleshooting this more and think it is the idler pulley bearing for my compressor making the noise. I did my valves a month ago and checked the timing guides and they are intact with no signs of wear. I read some threads about replacing the idler pulley bearing and think I'm doing it right, but the jamb nut won't budge.
http://imgur.com/a/hS4Fg
I thought you had to remove the jamb nut in front to adjust the tensioner bolt in back, but I can't get the jamb nut to move although the adjuster bolt came out with hand threading. I used three applications of PB blaster on the nut, tried tapping it with a hammer, and tried tapping the pulley to maybe loosen it and no dice. I don't have an impact driver, but hitting my wrench with a 3 lb hammer isn't doing a thing. With the adjuster bolt fully out, the belt still has the same tension as before.
Any suggestions to get the jamb nut off? I have to hammer my socket onto the nut now so I don't want to keep messing with it if I'm doing something wrong.
http://imgur.com/a/hS4Fg
I thought you had to remove the jamb nut in front to adjust the tensioner bolt in back, but I can't get the jamb nut to move although the adjuster bolt came out with hand threading. I used three applications of PB blaster on the nut, tried tapping it with a hammer, and tried tapping the pulley to maybe loosen it and no dice. I don't have an impact driver, but hitting my wrench with a 3 lb hammer isn't doing a thing. With the adjuster bolt fully out, the belt still has the same tension as before.
Any suggestions to get the jamb nut off? I have to hammer my socket onto the nut now so I don't want to keep messing with it if I'm doing something wrong.
Last edited by trenolds39; 02-05-2017 at 10:33 AM.
02-06-2017, 03:26 AM
#4
Cheater pipe, breaker bar, a 500lb gorilla, and someone to tap on the face..
that nut has been unintentionally staked, see that dent at 8 o'clock that isn't going to help, and probably put on with an impact wrench not just an air tool.
I would start by cleaning up the whole thing with a brass brush, crud isnt going to do you any favors. Next reface the nut with a mill file, to straighten up the corners that force the tool off. Shoot the mating surface (front and back) with penetration oil, Place an impact socket on it and tap on the face a few times with a dead blow hammer. Repeat..
Now put the breaker bar and cheater pipe on it. Have one person lean on the cheater mildly, ensure they maintain a ninety degree angle to the face. While another gently taps on the face junction.
You can do that last part solo but it's a stretch.
This bit sounds counter productive but try to tighten it, when you hear it break loose with a "tink" sound it has freed up and will spin off the other direction now.
Alternatives..
Take it to the local auto shop and ask them to hit it with the biggest air drive impact they have..
Cut into one of the flats with a small rotary bit untill its cut almost thru, then wrench it off with a breaker bar.
that nut has been unintentionally staked, see that dent at 8 o'clock that isn't going to help, and probably put on with an impact wrench not just an air tool.
I would start by cleaning up the whole thing with a brass brush, crud isnt going to do you any favors. Next reface the nut with a mill file, to straighten up the corners that force the tool off. Shoot the mating surface (front and back) with penetration oil, Place an impact socket on it and tap on the face a few times with a dead blow hammer. Repeat..
Now put the breaker bar and cheater pipe on it. Have one person lean on the cheater mildly, ensure they maintain a ninety degree angle to the face. While another gently taps on the face junction.
You can do that last part solo but it's a stretch.
This bit sounds counter productive but try to tighten it, when you hear it break loose with a "tink" sound it has freed up and will spin off the other direction now.
Alternatives..
Take it to the local auto shop and ask them to hit it with the biggest air drive impact they have..
Cut into one of the flats with a small rotary bit untill its cut almost thru, then wrench it off with a breaker bar.
