1992 4Runner A/C Port Schrader Valve?
 

I picked up an a/c kit with guages and adapter fitting, adding one can of refrigerant to my "supposedly" converted to 134a system.
....I've decided to bypass my garage for the yearly top-up. Although not as cold as at first, I've got some cold air relief.

Here's a pic of my 1992 4Runner with the installed port adapter from the kit called an "extension" by their tech help.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16210712/ac/...OL_ADAPTER.JPG

Tech support told me this "extension" does not stop air flow like a valve and is only a valve extension.

I replaced my 4runner's connection with this adapter "extension" because the kit gage would not "lock-on" (although fitting snugly) to my existing port connection.
Problem is, as soon as I remove the plastic screw on cap, air shoots out.

I was told over the phone that the schrader valve on my suv was defective.
Is there supposed to be a schrader valve inside or on top of the housing shown in the photo?
Did my "ex" garage guy remove the schrader valve?

Can one change the schrader valve core on a 92 4R or must the entire hose assembly be changed?

My ex-garage supposedly did a conversion to 134 on my 4Runner and I believe installed that adapter shown in the photo.
Does this aluminum fitting I removed contain my schrader valve?

Please check these photos of this valve and cap.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16210712/ac/FITTING_REMOVED.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16210712/ac/...G2_REMOVED.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16210712/ac/CAP_REMOVED.JPG

Help would be much appreciated, thank you,
Bugs

You can pretty much see the valve.

Pretty much like what goes in your valve stems on your tires:fire: works the same way

I'm afraid you'll need to bring it to a shop... you can replace the valve, but you won't be able to evacuate the system yourself... a vacuum must exist before you can put in any refrigerant!

RE::You can pretty much see the valve.

Yes, I can see what looks like a valve inside the adapter/extension.

"Tech" support said the part in the kit was a valve extension and not a valve, that it doesn't stop air flow and that my shcrader valve was defective.

I tried blowing through with my mouth and it blocks air flow.
Why then would refrigerant blow right through this piece once mounted and you remove the plastic cap?

Can anyone tell me if In the 92 4R is the original schrader valve mounted on top of the body in the photo or inside the body???

RE:::I'm afraid you'll need to bring it to a shop... you can replace the valve, but you won't be able to evacuate the system yourself... a vacuum must exist before you can put in any refrigerant!

Every spring my "garage" would charge me $90 bucks to refill and she would last the summer.

I installed kit adapter, connected the guage and can with refill and PRESTO! ice cold air!
But...a few days later she's moderately cool on a hot day... But before I add a second can I was hoping to find out why when I unscrew the plastic cap from the kit provided "extension" refrigerant blows out.
.....is the kit provided screw on just an extension or is it supposed to act as a valve???

wait...
are you telling me that your truck still had the screw on R12 service ports and you installed that crappy R134a "extension" adapter yourself?

the service ports are different for a reason! they are so that you won't mix R12 and R134a together in the system! it is ILLEGAL to mix refrigerants and not to mention the A/C won't work properly afterwards


I think you have no idea what you're doing with A/C but trying to be smart and save money. Saving money is a good idea, but not when you don't know what you're dealing with.

please correct me if I'm wrong, because I really think you still have R12 or some other garbage in the system


a proper R134a conversion involves changing both service port fittings to the clip on type, changing the drier unit out, and using PAG oil... not doing this the system will eventually fail... not changing the service ports is also illegal under EPA rules

also, a properly working A/C system shouldn't leak... there is NO reason why you have to go top it off every year... that's ridiculous... you need to fix the leak and get a proper conversion done... stop going to that mickey mouse shop!

....I appreciate concerns regarding EPA rules
Anyhow, several years ago my garage told me they converted to 134a.

I believe they installed the silver adapter shown in the photo which I understand to be a 134a conversion part. I replaced it with the screw-in brass one that came with the kit, they looked virtually identical. However, the kit guage's snap-on fit snugly but wouldn't "lock" on.

That "mickey mouse" shop has successfully topped-off 3-4 years running.
After 15 years being a loyal customer they charged me $150 to replace a 30" section on my fuel line (end of customer).

From what I've read on the internet a/c technicians can be just as deviously scheming as car salesmen.

I'm hoping someone will shed some light regarding the adapter/valve set-up.
I'm ready to begin topping off my previously empty system with a second can since a week later my system is still working and is moderately cold after only one can.

My concern is that the plastic cap is meant to be a dust cap and not to seal the adapter or extension (what ever that part is)
Bugs.

so are you saying the DIY refill kit wouldn't snap on properly to the old brass fitting thats why you had to replace it?

there's 2 different kinds of these adapter fittings from my experience... one has a schrader valve built in, which meant you removed the old one... the other type is just simply a pin inside the pushes on the original R12 schrader valve

I prefer the ones where you removed the original schrader valve... I bought the overpriced toyota conversion kit and it required me to remove the original schrader valves... working fine so far

the plastic caps on R134a helps seals the system as a backup believe it or not... R12 it didn't matter... the caps protects dust from going in on either system regardless

My old fitting is the silver/aluminum color one in the photo, I replaced it with the push-pin kit adapter. The DIY kit guage wouldn't "snap/lock" on to it

My mistake, like you say, turns out the DIY fitting is just an adapter with a push-pin, it doesn't have a valve inside. If I disconnect the guage the refrigerant will blow out. So, for the past 7 days I've left the guage connected, turned off and with the y refill can removed.....so far she blows pretty cold and doesn't leak.

I figure on putting back what I believe to be the original conversion fitting should this set-up show leakage. Then, I hope that I'll be able to manually push and hold the guage in position while filling with the Duracool, the guage snap-on goes all the way in, just doesn't lock on.

....thanks again