92 TOY

.....and the you're gonna share it with the rest of us.

big fat fail on getting those bolts off.....bent the pulley holder tool.....i'm brutal to these tools. used the electric impact wrench i just got today, no dice.

gotta get a new pulley holder now.

RedYota91

Ah damn! Sorry to hear that! And I will most certainly be posting how and what Im doing. I need you guys to tell me Im doing it wrong before its too late!

Wrenchinjoe

This worked for me (although I bent the tool as previously posted).

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/

92 TOY

OK.....got them off....tried several methods but ended up just wedging against the middle pulley thingy with the coolant passage in it.

BTW...here's a good read----->>>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...vations-32812/

ab_mekanik

I've always had good luck with lining a screwdriver or pry bar up to one of the 10mm bolts for the backing plate and then getting the bolt to turn

RedYota91

So bad news on helping you guys with the head clean up.. I dropped the heads off at a local shop to have them inspected, machined if needed, and cleaned up. I'll take some pics when I get them back. Havent had any time to look into where Im going to order my gaskets yet.

On another topic, what all should I consider replacing? My list so far:

Head Gasket Overhaul Kit (obviously)
New Exhaust Gaskets
Get Injectors Serviced
Belts (timing and accessories)
Water Pump
Thermostat
Idler Pulleys (mine looked good, but 1 kinda makes sound when you spin it.. how do you know if its still good?)
Alternator
Cam Seals
New MAF(?) (I did the whole 'unscrew the plug' thing and F-ed it up!)
Oil and Filter
Coolant
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Cap/Rotor

Input?

92 TOY

headers (hehehe) or some fabbing to rid yourself of that crossover pipe.

oil pump

radiator

ZARTT

Don't mean to hijack your thread, but make 100% sure that you either repair your MAF correctly, or if it is too f$#@&^ up, replace it with a junk yard replacement.
I did exactly the same thing you did, and when I saw that it wasn't the way to disconnect the plug just closed it back up.
Three weeks later when I was trying to start my rebuilt motor, no spark.
It took me a week of trouble shooting before I stumbled back to the MAF.
The main clue was the check engine light not coming on when I turned the key on.
I had broken a couple of the very fine wires inside the MAF, and they were shorting out.
My $50 junk yard replacement got me running again, and I was able to fix my original and use it as a spare.
Good luck to you,
I was in the same boat last year as you are now, and I just took it one step at a time.
A hint is to make every task, even the most trivial, an individual project. Then when it is accomplished, celebrate the victory, and move on to the next task.

Art.

TNRabbit

Be sure you get all the other intake gaskets as well. You also want to replace the hard plastic/bakelite (?) seats & rubber o-rings on them that the injectors sit in. Be sure you get new crush washers for the fuel rails, too.

RedYota91

VAFM, I stand corrected. Thanks for the input thus far.

MudHippy

TVV, a.k.a BVSV, for the EVAP system. Search those terms for more info, many threads on them.

Just so we're all on the same page here(not just trying to nitpick). NO IT DOES NOT MATTER IN THE SLIGHTEST! YES YOU CAN spin the crankshaft in either direction without causing harm to it or anything else. Same thing goes for the camshafts. Clockwise or counter-clockwise makes ABSOLUTELY no difference whatsovever. ESPECIALLY on a non-interference motor like the 3VZ-E. You can't possibly cause ANY harm to anything by doing so. None of the parts on this engine were designed in such a way so that spinning them in either direction will damage them at all, EVER! You can actually spin both the camshafts in opposite directions while spinning the crankshaft counter-clockise at the same time. NOTHING WILL HAPPEN! DAMAGE IS NOT EVEN POSSIBLE AS A RESULT! Got it? And NO, the distributor rotor, water pump, and oil pump(or for that matter the transmission/transfer case/any of the other drivetrain components)don't care which way they spin either(atleast while the engine ISN'T running that is). So don't even try going there. I did just say "none of the parts on this engine" did I not?

So much misinformation...so little time...
Sure do don't it!

Valve job = new camshafts? Not usually. These camshafts rarely ever wear out or need replaced. Mine had 220K+ miles on them last time I checked their specs, both had virtually NO measureable wear on them even with that amount of operating time.

Valves pre-adjusted and ready to install? Not possible. They HAVE to already be installed to be adjusted. And also NO, the machine shop will not very likely adjust them for you after installing them either. Unless you request it be done upfront. They too know how much of a PITA it is, and will need to be paid for the parts and labor required to do so.

Wrenchinjoe

Thanks MudHippy. I think my post was a bit vague though. I do not want to replace my cams but rather, I was simply wondering if the machine shop needs to have them along with the heads in order to do a valve job. As mentioned, I have never had a shop clean and/or rebuild my heads before, I am trying to get an understanding for what to expect and what is reasonable to ask them to do to heads with 174K miles on them.

Thanks again, any info is much appreciated.

camo31_10.50

i have a thread for eliminating the stock crossover.

i'm getting my exhaust finished this week hopefully..so i'll be posting pics soon!

RedYota91

I asked a local muffler shop and they said it would be a royal pain to get rid of that crossover pipe.. Looks like I'll be taking it somewhere else..

RedYota91

Little update. Got a call from the machine shop saying that 4 of the exhaust valves and 2 of the intake valves wouldnt seal properly. Said that it would just be best to get a valve grind (I believe thats what he called it..). Grrrrr! More money!

92 TOY

i did note that there was such a thing as a "valve grind" set available from toyota but i'm not sure what it is.....i think i even posted it here on this thread maybe.

norcal707

hi redyota91. I did this last year on my 95 4runner and going to doing againg on my 91. I got my kit from rockauto.com. It was the cheapest place to get the kit. now I would ask the machine shop how much they would charger you to rebuilt the heads.

RedYota91

So I went to my local Toyota dealership (Burien Toyota) and got a few things priced out. Thought this was a good starting point to compare things to. As I was walking out, the parts manager said that I might wanna try the website and order the parts from there as I could save some money. I could then pick them up at the dealership with no extra cost.. Odd. ANYWAY.. The printed prices are obviously from going through the parts department, my hand-written numbers are off of their site.




As you can see, its almost $500 cheaper going through their site than the parts department. So, the next step.. Which of these parts can I go through Napa/Schucks/Etc and get even cheaper?

TNRabbit

TRDPARTS4U here on YotaTech offers substantial discounts & reasonable shipping. Check with Jacque on this.

92 TOY

Jacque is no longer there....a few months back he posted up as a new member and said the same......but nevertheless I would HIGHLY recommend trdparts4u.com anyway.....that's where i ordered the majority of my parts and Jacque was extremely helpful and answered all my questions quickly and completely.

those hand-written prices seem to be in line with the best prices I've found.

napaonline.com....sells AISIN water pump / oil pump....under the name Altrom which I've found to be the same......sould be wrong, but my searching says Altrom and Aisin are the same
rockauto.com
toyotapartsales.com (is the trdparts4u OEM parts site)
toyotapartszone.com for great pictures of parts with #'s...it what i use to start my searches