RedYota91

Ah. Thank you for the tip! Will do.

92 TOY

hey...it's changed. good job.

gonna check out the "other" technique on the way out the door in a few.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

yep I think with in 30 minutes is pretty good service

RedYota91

Sweet! Thanks DropZone!

RedYota91

Im doing some last minute FSM review as I THINK Im about to pull the LH head.. BUT per the FSM, it appears that there is a 6 sided bolt under where the cap/rotor sits.. It appears that the only way around this is to remove that thing which is also a cam shaft bearing cap.. I was kinda hoping to not have to pull the cams.. Is there any way around this or do you HAVE to pull the cams to get the head off..?

RedYota91

CANCEL! It appears that that six sided bolt is WAY below the rotor! Hard to tell from these crappy photos!

(I wouldve edited my previous post, but I figure why not leave it in case someone is reading through this for this bolt!)

Andy A

Yes you will need to remove the camshafts to remove 4(per head) of the headbolts. There are 9 total per head. 8 twelve point bolts and 1 six point bolt. The six point is a short bolt with spacer (dont lose the spacer) The six point bolt is located at the front lower edge on the driver side head and at the rear lower edge on the passenger side head. Just follow the FSM when loosening the headbolts, you want to do it in stages.

92 TOY

meh.

looked like your method was going to work,but alas, broke another tool.

this time it was the adapter so that i could use my 1/2'' driver breaker bar with my 3/8'' drive 16mm socket.

need to buy a 16mm impact socket to get this right.

MudHippy

16mm socket? Are you sure about that? My 3VZE's camshaft bolts are 17mm.

I've never seen a 16mm bolt/nut on a Toyota. You've got the rare occasional 8mm, but mostly there's just 10mm/12mm/14mm/17mm/19mm/20mm/22mm/24mm/30mm/54mm. That covers ALL the nuts and bolts on my rig anyways. I don't even own a 16mm socket or wrench. And I've never needed one for anything on my truck or anything else for that matter. I've never even seen a 16mm fastener of any sort used for anything, anywhere, that I can recall. So that immediately strikes me as being VERY odd to hear it even mentioned.

92 TOY

I stand erected.

17mm it is

ab_mekanik

Think I warned ya about that pipe.

if it's still not off, you can weasel the heads out from between the manifolds one at a time and then remove the manifolds and the cross over pipe together. I've had to remove a few that way that never ever came apart and then weaseled it back in again.

Wrenchinjoe

Nice work so far guys, those cam pulleys on my 3vze were SERIOUSLY tight too. I bent the tool trying to break those loose.



Buckz6319 has a nice write up on doing the head gaskets on his 3vze (although the pics are dead links now). He did not remove the crossover pipe or exhaust manifolds, but pulled both heads with crossover and manifolds still attached at the same time. Anybody else tried this?

I am also replacing my head gaskets currently and am at this same hurdle. I got the down pipe loose with no problem and thought I might try the Buckz6319 method to pull the heads with help of course. That will likely be next week at the earliest as I am taking my daughters camping this weekend.

Keep up the good work.

RedYota91

Did the same thing. Ended up getting a 17mm deep socket for the 1/2" breaker. Still had to use a cheater pipe!

camo31_10.50

hey guys...you don't have to buy headers in order to get rid of the crossover!!!!!!!!!

i got rid of my stock crossover...and i'm NOT running a $650 set of headers.....


stock manifolds, crossover inlet blocked on the driverside manifold...and new downpipe bolted to the passenger side manifold.









*EDIT* i also have a 3vz Build Thread, and i have a thread about the exhaust.

92 TOY

i've thought of that too.....but i don't weld. throw up a link please.


EDT: Never mind....I found it https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...stions-205014/

RedYota91

Im seriously looking into the idea of a crossover eliminated setup. What a PITA that thing is!

On a separate topic...

VICTORY!!!!! (Thats my little brother)

'Hmm.. Something is missing..'


How we got the passenger side head off..


The passenger side had a bracket mounted to the head for the 'Clutch Release Cylinder Hose'.. The FSM at ncttora.com shows a pic of you loosening a nut (I stripped it almost so I never got it disconnected), but even following that step, I dont see how you get the head off without removing the bracket.. Whatev. Its time for the little brother to run this over to a shop and see if shes still plumb! I'll keep you all posted, but please stay tuned, I have a feeling that I'll have a few 'uhhh... Where does this go?' posts ahead of me.. Thanks again for all of your help and wisdom!

Simply put, I could not have done this without this site. You. Guys. Rock.

92 TOY

good job guys.

yeah....we disconnected that crap...whatever that is and laid it to the side with all the other crap on the passengers side....the crossover we took off after the motor was out.

great work.

let us know what "kit" you go with....i see a "valve grind" kit and an "engine overhaul" gasket listed on www.toyotapartszone.com not really sure what is what and if the head gaskets are included in either of them.

take lots of pics.


EDIT:

here's the link I'm talking about. I need that plus a timing belt kit / water pump and oil pump / front and rear seals....OUCH!

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...onentsIndex=13

Wrenchinjoe

RedYota and 92Toy, how will you handle cleaning up the heads? I have never taken heads to a machine shop before and really don't know how that process works.

It seems having the heads cleaned and resurfaced to ensure flatness is advised, but on a 16-18 year old engine with 150K+ miles, do you get a machine shop to do a valve job just to do it right?

If you are only getting the heads cleaned, tested and resurfaced, I am guessing you don't need to include the cams, but you would still want to check the adjustment of your valves during reassembly.

But if you are getting a valve job I assume you have to include the cams. Should the valves be adjusted and ready to install straight from the machine shop if a valve job has been done?

I don't mean to hijack, but these questions seemed relevant to the jobs you guys are doing as well.

Thanks.

92 TOY

hey...i'm not at that point yet.
i hear adjust valves is a real PITA on this thing.

the heads i will clean up with acetone / brake cleaner as i did with my 22re. as far as flat-ness goes and testing i am gonna probably hit up XXXTREME and see who he used.

mostly i am just going to take it as it comes and follow clues and advice.

so since i'm not at that point, i will pull over and let someone else answer.

RedYota91

Since this is the most in depth Ive ever been on an engine, Im learning as I go. Im going to be doing a lot of searching to see how to clean this all up, what I should do while its apart, and how exactly I put this back together correctly.