|
1988 22re 4x4 W56 Build. (For Real This Time)
Hey yall. Been a member here for a while but haven't posted a single thing in years. Originally made an account to help with my build but life and stuff got in the way and my 22re block and truck sat for about 3 years. But now I'm back and have the means and knowledge (somewhat haha) to actually finish this. So if all goes well this will be another steady build thread with plenty of pictures.
At the moment my block is sitting at home with the rotating assembly and rear main installed. This is how it has been sitting for about 2 to 3 years. I had the block bored .30 over. New pistons, rings, bearings etc. The brand of the pistons escapes me but they were supplied by my machine shop. I am debating on buying new better ones from a known supplier. I have ENGNBLDRS Street RV Head and 261 cam and I am going to pick up 22reperformances rocker arm assembly and some head studs early next week. I purchased ENGNBLDRS Master Rebuild kit as well but the gaskets have been bent somewhat and have been sitting in a box for a while. The block was moved around several times over the years so I'd like to tear it down and have it and possibly the crank inspected again and have the sealing surfaces machined. This truck is gonna be my all around daily/work/toy. Nothing crazy as far as upgrades but not stock. But I want to never have to open it up for a long time so I want to do everything right and am willing to pay for it. I may be a little over cautious but I want to do it the right eay and the best way first. I will post plenty of pictures once I'm off work. I plan on being way more active now that I am able to buy parts and have the time and place to work on the truck. |
Pics, pics, pics! We love pics!
|
Originally Posted by SomedayJ
(Post 52405973)
Pics, pics, pics! We love pics!
It is not overly cautious to re-inspect all engine components that have been sitting for a while. In fact, that is what you SHOULD do, that way you know the health of the parts and can catch problems before you put the engine all back together. Nothing is worse than having engine problems shortly after installing due to parts that could have damage or corrosion over the years of sitting. Is there any corrosion on the engine components? :safari: |
Originally Posted by old87yota
(Post 52405981)
x2!!
It is not overly cautious to re-inspect all engine components that have been sitting for a while. In fact, that is what you SHOULD do, that way you know the health of the parts and can catch problems before you put the engine all back together. Nothing is worse than having engine problems shortly after installing due to parts that could have damage or corrosion over the years of sitting. Is there any corrosion on the engine components? :safari: |
Originally Posted by Gonzo_Yota
(Post 52405965)
.... But I want to never have to open it up for a long time so I want to do everything right and am willing to pay for it. ...
If you love your truck like the rest of us do, you are happy to spend a little more just for the fun, and you enjoy working on it. Just don't think that if you buy enough fancy engine parts you'll never have to work on it again. If you really had that attitude, you'd spend your money on a new truck. Instead, enjoy the one you have, even if it means tinkering every few months. |
I didn't mean it like that but I do get why you are telling me this. I am sure many people think that fancy parts means the hood never has to be open once the ole LCE part is thrown on. But I understand this is a long wrenching commitment. Although I do plan on moving all the good stuff over to a first gen and fully restoring that to a point where it might as well be brand new. This one will always be getting new parts here and there. That's like half the fun haha
I really meant all the internals done right. So that the nitty gritty of the engine is seriously solid and I dont gotta worry about that for a long while. I dont ever plan to boost the engine (I'm sure they all say that) but I was looking into forged internals. Yeah I know this engine doesn't really need forged internals for an NA build but peace of mind is very valuable to me. And also I love this series of engine. And I love Toyota. I am totally willing to buy forged con rods and pistons just for that 100% confidence that this engine is solid through and through. And also for the coolness of having forged internals and knowing every part was installed by me. I have heard the "polishing a turd" business over and over and yes in the end I am spending decent money on an 80s 4 cylinder engine as if it were a race engine. |
Skip forged rods if you want a high-mileage stock engine and think about a dual row timing chain conversion instead. Use OSK-brand chain tensioner (oem). Forged pistons we're made for boosted engines, no need for stock but do what you like.
Did you oil the cylinder walls before storing it? If no, you might have some corrosion where the piston rings touch the walls. The bearings should be ok, assuming you primed them with assembly lube, but smart to check anyway. Did you plastigauge the tolerances before? Get an Aisin oil pump and prime it. Use new toyota (NOK) oil seal, it's shallower so won't leak if your crank has a line worn in it. Aisin water pumps are now made in USA and have a cheap bearing. NPW is still made in Japan (I learned this from talking to Jeff at 22reperformance - yes I name drop them, but they helped me the most with my rebuild and I bought less than half my parts from them. Just very cool guys that enjoy helping newbies when you call them). Engnbldr gaskets aren't bad, but if you want the best stick with Toyota. I also like the machined half moons for the valve covers to replace the leaky rubber ones. A few vendors make them. I like your idea of using a rebuilt rocker assembly. More oiling holes for rocker arms has to be a good thing. I bought a set of upgraded shafts and rebuilt mine. The old shafts were gouged and the insides were about plugged with carbon. During my rebuild I lived near a Summit racing so I picked up Joe Gibbs assembly lube and break-in oil. Really good stuff, again 22reperformance recommends it as the best you can buy. Cooling helps your engine live longer, so get your radiatior cleaned out and flush the block to remove as much rust as possible. I also want to see photos. |
Originally Posted by gsp4life
(Post 52406010)
Skip forged rods if you want a high-mileage stock engine and think about a dual row timing chain conversion instead. Use OSK-brand chain tensioner (oem). Forged pistons we're made for boosted engines, no need for stock but do what you like.
Did you oil the cylinder walls before storing it? If no, you might have some corrosion where the piston rings touch the walls. The bearings should be ok, assuming you primed them with assembly lube, but smart to check anyway. Did you plastigauge the tolerances before? Get an Aisin oil pump and prime it. Use new toyota (NOK) oil seal, it's shallower so won't leak if your crank has a line worn in it. Aisin water pumps are now made in USA and have a cheap bearing. NPW is still made in Japan (I learned this from talking to Jeff at 22reperformance - yes I name drop them, but they helped me the most with my rebuild and I bought less than half my parts from them. Just very cool guys that enjoy helping newbies when you call them). Engnbldr gaskets aren't bad, but if you want the best stick with Toyota. I also like the machined half moons for the valve covers to replace the leaky rubber ones. A few vendors make them. I like your idea of using a rebuilt rocker assembly. More oiling holes for rocker arms has to be a good thing. I bought a set of upgraded shafts and rebuilt mine. The old shafts were gouged and the insides were about plugged with carbon. During my rebuild I lived near a Summit racing so I picked up Joe Gibbs assembly lube and break-in oil. Really good stuff, again 22reperformance recommends it as the best you can buy. Cooling helps your engine live longer, so get your radiatior cleaned out and flush the block to remove as much rust as possible. I also want to see photos. Awesome reply man thank you. So I didn't opt for the dual row timing chain. I did go with the metal backed one of course. I already got the OSK tensioner. And to be brutally honest when I tore this engine down years ago I wasn't as knowledgable as I am now (not to say I know much of anything now but definitely more than before) and I am kind of worried I didn't put the rods back where they went before haha. Even now I remember being very careful to put them in the same place but just the possibility of there being a chance I messed up worries me. I will be taking the block apart and taking it to the machine shop next week if all goes well. And yes I did use assembly lube when I assembled the engine before it was stored. I sprayed wd40 in the walls several times over the years. There was still some I found while taking the pictures. I did plastigage before the tolerances were spot on. I will be getting those aluminum half moon seal from 22reperformance. And probably all OEM Toyota seals. I have heard they are the best enough times so I'll pick them up. Also from 22reperformance. As far as the radiator I am getting a new one. The old one is messed up. Anyway. Enough talk. PICTURES. There is still way more this is just everything I have at my apt. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...44fef293c9.jpg My \"dining room" https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...965856786a.jpg Misc. Parts https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...5ccfe0cdfa.jpg Lower intake still in need of scraping https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...776267f4d3.jpg ENGNBLDR kit https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...d56f25595c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...4968a22d50.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...e00fb08773.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...cf988143cd.jpg Tensioner https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...e40000da1d.jpg Under shot of no 4 https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...e0b781e237.jpg You can see the lithium grease turned yellow over time https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...dbb7972247.jpg A couple spots on the oil pan sealing surface that worry me https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...b80cefccd7.jpg Rather deep nick https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...a5c912d637.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...1351fe0ae3.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c34611332b.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...ffbf7d13cd.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...04fbc89cb1.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...f434972a7a.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...be5b356cdb.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...7ad4b41e86.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...cad6c84b8d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...41aac50063.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...fe63910ca4.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...9ebafd20c1.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...514552f897.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...05fc7fd811.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3415f45ed3.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...e589f2d5dd.jpg |
My guess is the machinist would hot tank the block again even if no work is done, but ask about it just to be sure. It'll get rid of most of that surface rust. Wiping with mineral spirits should take care of the rest, but wash it off with acetone cause spirits leaves residue.
Oil pan sealing surface looks fine, fipg will fill the gouges. The rods may have been marked by the machinist, pay careful attention to anything scribed on them. Also, if there's a bad mismatch, you'll feel it binding when you turn the crank by hand. One issue I'd be worried about are those replacement bolts for the timing cover. Did you measure the original bolts and match the lengths exactly? They're almost all different and for good reason. The water pump uses 3 studs and nuts, but that may not be so important, just don't strip those tiny 6mm threads (only 6 ft/lbs or so). Everything else looks good to me. I rebuilt mine in the living room, seeing those photos brings back good memories. Not sure how strong you are, but I needed help from my neighbor once I had the head bolted on. I found the built short block pretty easy to carry around though. |
Originally Posted by gsp4life
(Post 52406062)
My guess is the machinist would hot tank the block again even if no work is done, but ask about it just to be sure. It'll get rid of most of that surface rust. Wiping with mineral spirits should take care of the rest, but wash it off with acetone cause spirits leaves residue.
Oil pan sealing surface looks fine, fipg will fill the gouges. The rods may have been marked by the machinist, pay careful attention to anything scribed on them. Also, if there's a bad mismatch, you'll feel it binding when you turn the crank by hand. One issue I'd be worried about are those replacement bolts for the timing cover. Did you measure the original bolts and match the lengths exactly? They're almost all different and for good reason. The water pump uses 3 studs and nuts, but that may not be so important, just don't strip those tiny 6mm threads (only 6 ft/lbs or so). Everything else looks good to me. I rebuilt mine in the living room, seeing those photos brings back good memories. Not sure how strong you are, but I needed help from my neighbor once I had the head bolted on. I found the built short block pretty easy to carry around though. I used the chart the the hardware kit came with. It was the LCE kit. But I will be double and triple checking and cross referencing the FSM as well. I will be picking up a tube of FIPG. And if all is well with the block then a hot tank is perfect. As far as the rods I just found an old picture that will clear it all up. So it looks like new bearings and MAYBE pistons. I did scratch these pistons up a bit during install. And again I want to be absolutely positive about the quality of every bolt and part in thos truck. I had to have my giant best friend help me get it into my apartment. He was able to just carry the block as is into my apartment and slide it into the stand. I can maneuver it around on the stand but getting it out once it built is gonna be awesome. I may have to use my cherry picker to lower it down the steps in front of my apartment. There's a ramp but it's crazy steep for a "handicap ramp". |
Hopefully you hear good news from the machine shop. Good luck!
Interesting that LCE just sells DIN fasteners. Sure they cost less than JIS but LCE prices are high so I always assumed they'd sell Japanese hardware. Really the only difference is the bolt heads are a little bigger, but I'm really particular and get annoyed when I need a 13 or 15mm to work on my Yota. |
Originally Posted by Gonzo_Yota
(Post 52406096)
I may have to use my cherry picker to lower it down the steps in front of my apartment.
Might be time to start a high-intensity workout routine, lol. Two fairly strong guys can carry a long block 22re down a few stairs and across a yard. I know this because I'm only 5' 10", 160 lbs and my giant neighbor was a weight lifter when he was young (but early 50's now). He stuggled a little more than me, but I'm 2 decades younger and not fat. I recommend good furniture moving or mechanic gloves. |
Originally Posted by gsp4life
(Post 52406101)
I thought about doing this same thing but it won't work cause the legs are the same length as the boom. If you make a longer boom and sandbag the back of the cherry picker it'll have a way lower load rating. Too dangerous for lifting an engine, I don't recommend doing that.
Might be time to start a high-intensity workout routine, lol. Two fairly strong guys can carry a long block 22re down a few stairs and across a yard. I know this because I'm only 5' 10", 160 lbs and my giant neighbor was a weight lifter when he was young (but early 50's now). He stuggled a little more than me, but I'm 2 decades younger and not fat. I recommend good furniture moving or mechanic gloves. I bought that hardware from LCE a while ago. I dont know if it's different now. I haven't yet got to actually work on the engine in my new little "shop" so I'm super excited. Also how do y'all feel about DNJ? I got it from ENGNBLDR and the general consensus is that his stuff is good. But again, OEM is best or at least Japanese so I am also thinking about upgrading those and using these on my next build. |
Okay guys. Sorry for the delay but I got pretty much everything out/off of the block.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c74ed20c7f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...a467e4495d.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...a6ed5db612.jpg Cylinder 1 https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...97b2582aac.jpg 2 https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...bc4f0f8a7e.jpg 3 https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...248e3c6087.jpg 4 |
Wondering if that DNJ gasket kit actually has all the gaskets? The small stuff like o-ring under intake, crush washers, secondary air injection gaskets, and etc..
When I tore down my 92 last year, and did timing set and new head, the Beck Arnley made in Japan set did not have everything. Can't remember exactly what was missing, but I am pretty sure it did not have the secondary air injection gaskets. I had to make those. This and that part adds up fast. If I had to do it over again, I am buying the Toyota kit. I heard those kits actually have all the parts. |
I am going to go ahead and get an OEM gasket kit as well for sure. But I will post more detailed pictures of the kit and what I has. I'm sure some stuff is missing or something. The kit has been sitting for a couple years at least. Another reason why I will be getting the OEM stuff.
|
No use to spend extra money. I was just saying these aftermarket kits might not have everything needed. Paying for this and that plus waiting if you have to order, and the time spent looking for part numbers gets time consuming. The job is hard enough without all the extra hassle.
That head gasket looks OK to me from what I can see. At least it has the seal at the front of the gasket, so it does not leak oil between the head and timing cover. |
I was already planning on that purchase anyway. And these seals will not go to waste. I'm going to be building another 22re. But some seals have been out of the package for years and bent or frayed. That alone is worth the cost. Time is of no concern to me as I am in no rush.
|
I also have another question. My block is bored .030 over. Like I said I wanted to get new pistons and rings. I'm unsure of the quality of these that the machine shop sold me. They've been sitting for a few years and when I put them in I put some little nicks and gouges on the tops. I also dropped one during install. It was a few years ago like I said so don't judge haha
Anyway like I said I'm getting new pistons. But I can't find or don't know where to look for .75mm other pistons. I was going to hit up 22reperformance but they don't have .75. And forged seems overkill. Where can I find and what brand do you guys recommend for .75 cast high quality pistons? |
Well my daily driver took an unfortunate crap and is now out of commission. Sooooo I'm gonna look into buying another Yota as a daily haha I found an '85 with a 22r for a good price a few hours away from me. That'll put my current build on hold but at least I'll be in a running and driving Yota again.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:36 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands