190 hp 3.0 V-6 from CHS Machine 210 Torq
01-20-2012, 03:44 AM
#83
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Hi I was reading your thread and was wondering about a update on the motor. Is it still going strong. What did you reuse off the old 3.0 what did you get new. Reuse injectors and fuel rail or what. I'm thinking of doing the swap myself
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01-20-2012, 07:16 AM
#85
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3.Go!
Yes the 3.Go motor is still running strong. The rig is a lot of fun with the extra ponies. A neighbour down the road with a 3.slow tries to keep up with me on the country road into town but does not have it. He’s scratching his head… the other day I was following him and he was so busy watching me in his rear-view mirror he almost slammed into a school bus in front of him. He still has not figured it out.
I recommend you change out all the hoses, rad water pump and injectors if they are weak. I used the original fuel rail and some have suggested I should have installed a header cross over pipe but that is up to you. I did the down pipe and a new cat. Strong recommendation with the Oregon shop but make sure you have both blocks to swap out all the water plugs and studs. I made the mistake of taking my block in and had to return twice get stuff off of it. I split the engine and trany and while those bell housing bolts are tight it save talking out the front end steering parts.
I had trouble getting performance at the stock timing mark and so just power timed it. I drift it and my twelve year old gets upset
It’s hot. Good luck.
I recommend you change out all the hoses, rad water pump and injectors if they are weak. I used the original fuel rail and some have suggested I should have installed a header cross over pipe but that is up to you. I did the down pipe and a new cat. Strong recommendation with the Oregon shop but make sure you have both blocks to swap out all the water plugs and studs. I made the mistake of taking my block in and had to return twice get stuff off of it. I split the engine and trany and while those bell housing bolts are tight it save talking out the front end steering parts.
I had trouble getting performance at the stock timing mark and so just power timed it. I drift it and my twelve year old gets upset
It’s hot. Good luck.
Last edited by Wildblue; 01-20-2012 at 07:19 AM.
01-20-2012, 02:57 PM
#86
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So I would be fine with some stock but new injectors and where would I be able to find the hoses so its not a clusterpuck. New cat? Also just seafoamed the slow and not sure I can tell a different but it may idle a lil lower
01-23-2012, 04:57 PM
#87
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witch-hunter.com does fuel injectors. cleaning and recalibrating and they give you the before and after results in a printout.
use the search function here to catch up on witch hunter stuff.
use the search function here to catch up on witch hunter stuff.
Last edited by phildelfino; 01-23-2012 at 04:58 PM.
01-24-2012, 06:38 AM
#89
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13k on CHS swap
Yes the 3.Go motor is still running strong. The rig is a lot of fun with the extra ponies. A neighbour down the road with a 3.slow tries to keep up with me on the country road into town but does not have it. He’s scratching his head… the other day I was following him and he was so busy watching me in his rear-view mirror he almost slammed into a school bus in front of him. He still has not figured it out.
I recommend you change out all the hoses, rad water pump and injectors if they are weak. I used the original fuel rail and some have suggested I should have installed a header cross over pipe but that is up to you. I did the down pipe and a new cat. Strong recommendation with the Oregon shop but make sure you have both blocks to swap out all the water plugs and studs. I made the mistake of taking my block in and had to return twice get stuff off of it. I split the engine and trany and while those bell housing bolts are tight it save talking out the front end steering parts.
I had trouble getting performance at the stock timing mark and so just power timed it. I drift it and my twelve year old gets upset It’s hot. Good luck.
I recommend you change out all the hoses, rad water pump and injectors if they are weak. I used the original fuel rail and some have suggested I should have installed a header cross over pipe but that is up to you. I did the down pipe and a new cat. Strong recommendation with the Oregon shop but make sure you have both blocks to swap out all the water plugs and studs. I made the mistake of taking my block in and had to return twice get stuff off of it. I split the engine and trany and while those bell housing bolts are tight it save talking out the front end steering parts.
I had trouble getting performance at the stock timing mark and so just power timed it. I drift it and my twelve year old gets upset
It’s hot. Good luck. 
. Has anyone ever had problems with their air valve (reed valve?). That black rectangle box on the rear passenger side corner of the engine (right under the rear corner of the intake plenum). I'm hearing a lot of air flow (not the good kind) which I can adjust by the 'idle' screw on the throttle body. If I adjust it down to where I can't hear all that air, the thing doesn't idle right (around 250 rpm!). I read a troubleshooting tree somewhere and it said that with the engine warmed up, you should be able to close this 'idle' screw completely and the idle shouldn't change if the air valve is working properly. To me it sounds like it's bad. Any thoughts??
09-16-2013, 11:16 PM
#92
Yes the 3.Go motor is still running strong. The rig is a lot of fun with the extra ponies. A neighbour down the road with a 3.slow tries to keep up with me on the country road into town but does not have it. He’s scratching his head… the other day I was following him and he was so busy watching me in his rear-view mirror he almost slammed into a school bus in front of him. He still has not figured it out.
I recommend you change out all the hoses, rad water pump and injectors if they are weak. I used the original fuel rail and some have suggested I should have installed a header cross over pipe but that is up to you. I did the down pipe and a new cat. Strong recommendation with the Oregon shop but make sure you have both blocks to swap out all the water plugs and studs. I made the mistake of taking my block in and had to return twice get stuff off of it. I split the engine and trany and while those bell housing bolts are tight it save talking out the front end steering parts.
I had trouble getting performance at the stock timing mark and so just power timed it. I drift it and my twelve year old gets upset It’s hot. Good luck.
I recommend you change out all the hoses, rad water pump and injectors if they are weak. I used the original fuel rail and some have suggested I should have installed a header cross over pipe but that is up to you. I did the down pipe and a new cat. Strong recommendation with the Oregon shop but make sure you have both blocks to swap out all the water plugs and studs. I made the mistake of taking my block in and had to return twice get stuff off of it. I split the engine and trany and while those bell housing bolts are tight it save talking out the front end steering parts.
I had trouble getting performance at the stock timing mark and so just power timed it. I drift it and my twelve year old gets upset
It’s hot. Good luck.
09-23-2013, 10:45 AM
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09-24-2013, 08:29 PM
#97
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Can someone clear this up, I found 4 engine companies in oregon, CHS, raptorengines, portland engine builders, and oregon engine rebuilders. Isnt CHS and Raptor the same company? Also which is a good one to stay away from? Looking at Raptors 135HP 22re, better value and price than 22reperformance stage2 or 3
10-22-2013, 07:38 PM
#99
well my 190 hp 3vze from raptor motors is in 
!!
it comes with oversize valves , bigger cams,and i got the heads ported for an extra 200 dollars, plus had the intake manifold and plenum ported by lc engineering , and a ported throttle body by doa race engines, doug thorley headers, new injectors,new egr system,all new belts,hoses,vacuum hose's,fuel regulator, dash pod,fuel pulsation damper,8.5 sparkplug wires, iriduim denso plugs, cap ,rotor, timing belt ,belt idlers, waterpump,flywheel,lc engineering pro clutch kit and she sounds GOOD !!!!, my mechanic told me not to take it over 3k rpms for the first 500 miles so cant really get on it yet , but it feels a hell of lot more responsive even under 3k rpm, i plan on playing with the timing and doing the 3inch intake tube and also thinking about the 7mge wafm swap but would like to wait till i brake her in probably at 1000k miles, cant wait
!!it comes with oversize valves , bigger cams,and i got the heads ported for an extra 200 dollars, plus had the intake manifold and plenum ported by lc engineering , and a ported throttle body by doa race engines, doug thorley headers, new injectors,new egr system,all new belts,hoses,vacuum hose's,fuel regulator, dash pod,fuel pulsation damper,8.5 sparkplug wires, iriduim denso plugs, cap ,rotor, timing belt ,belt idlers, waterpump,flywheel,lc engineering pro clutch kit and she sounds GOOD !!!!, my mechanic told me not to take it over 3k rpms for the first 500 miles so cant really get on it yet , but it feels a hell of lot more responsive even under 3k rpm, i plan on playing with the timing and doing the 3inch intake tube and also thinking about the 7mge wafm swap but would like to wait till i brake her in probably at 1000k miles, cant wait
