stereo wires dont match im having trouble with installation
10-24-2013, 01:16 PM
#1
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stereo wires dont match im having trouble with installation
so i got a stereo today, i did my research couldn't really find a good wiring diagram and every web sight i look at the wire colors do not match my truck and they have a lot more wires then i do... can anyone help me out with maybe a wiring diagram or maybe some incite on what wires mean what. also i don't have a diagram of the fuse box but one 7.5 amp fuse is blown under the hood... im thinking thats the stereo fuse. i can use any help i can get! i would love to avoid taking it to a stereo shop! thanks!
i have attached some pictures and the sources i have found, i hope they are helpful!
wire color diagram for 84 - http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...tail/2108.html
bottom of the first post might be relevant - http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/int...diagram-11947/
pics
i have attached some pictures and the sources i have found, i hope they are helpful!
wire color diagram for 84 - http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...tail/2108.html
bottom of the first post might be relevant - http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/int...diagram-11947/
pics
10-30-2013, 03:46 PM
#4
Registered User
The previous owner of my truck cut out the factory stereo plug and spliced it straight to the stereo's harness. I ordered a replacement harness since I'm trying to return the truck to OEM where it makes sense. Anyway, I also looked on the12volt, and the colors weren't exact either, if I recall correctly. The easiest way to get what you need will be with a digital multimeter (DMM). If you don't have one, you can pick one up cheap from Sears or even a parts store. Even the $5 one from Harbor Freight will work, but a DMM is a crucial part of any tool box, so spend at least $20-25 if you can and you'll have something half decent that should last at least a few knocks.
Once you get the DMM, you want to find the wires you need. Start by first finding your 12V constant wire (always on to retain radio's memory). With the ignition off, set the meter to whatever range that will read about 12V, probably 20V DC or similar (a decent meter here would "Auto range). Hold the black probe to a known good ground and probe each wire until you find one that reads battery voltage, probably between 12-13V if your battery is in decent shape. That will be your "12V Constant".
Then find your ground wire. Set the DMM to continuity, if you bought a decent meter, it would have something that looks like sound waves or otherwise indicate a buzzer. When you touch the two probes together and create a short, it'll beep. If your meter lacks that function, set it to read resistance, and make sure the meter reads about 0 ohms when you touch the probes together. Hold the black probe to ground again (it doesn't matter actually). Touch the red probe to each of the remaining wires (not the 12V Constant) until the meter beeps or reads 0 ohms. This should be your 12V ground. Its probably the black with white stripe wire. You can test this by setting the meter back to 20VDC or whatever you used the first time, and touching the red to your 12V Constant and black to your ground. Should read about the same as you found the constant to read when you found it (12-13V). Once you find the ground, you can find your switched 12V that tells the stereo to turn on. With your ground and constant 12V put aside, switch the ignition to accessory and probe the wires like you did to find your constant 12V. You should be able to verify it by switching the ignition off, and the wire will go cold. You can do the same thing to find your illumination wire, except turn the headlight knob to the first click (parking lights) instead of the ignition switch. Once you've found those, you can find the speaker wires, unless you're running aftermarket speaker wire, which is what I did. To find your speaker wires, you can set the DMM to ohms, and probe the remaining wires systematically until you find a pair that gets you some sort of continuity, probably roughly between 4 and 8 ohms). This assumes the speakers are good, and you'll still need to determine polarity, or your speakers will be out of phase. You can use a 9V battery to "pop test" them quickly. If you run your own wires neatly though, you won't have to deal with that or the dinky little wires that might be too short anyway.
Hope that helps, feel free to ask more questions!
-Trevor
Once you get the DMM, you want to find the wires you need. Start by first finding your 12V constant wire (always on to retain radio's memory). With the ignition off, set the meter to whatever range that will read about 12V, probably 20V DC or similar (a decent meter here would "Auto range). Hold the black probe to a known good ground and probe each wire until you find one that reads battery voltage, probably between 12-13V if your battery is in decent shape. That will be your "12V Constant".
Then find your ground wire. Set the DMM to continuity, if you bought a decent meter, it would have something that looks like sound waves or otherwise indicate a buzzer. When you touch the two probes together and create a short, it'll beep. If your meter lacks that function, set it to read resistance, and make sure the meter reads about 0 ohms when you touch the probes together. Hold the black probe to ground again (it doesn't matter actually). Touch the red probe to each of the remaining wires (not the 12V Constant) until the meter beeps or reads 0 ohms. This should be your 12V ground. Its probably the black with white stripe wire. You can test this by setting the meter back to 20VDC or whatever you used the first time, and touching the red to your 12V Constant and black to your ground. Should read about the same as you found the constant to read when you found it (12-13V). Once you find the ground, you can find your switched 12V that tells the stereo to turn on. With your ground and constant 12V put aside, switch the ignition to accessory and probe the wires like you did to find your constant 12V. You should be able to verify it by switching the ignition off, and the wire will go cold. You can do the same thing to find your illumination wire, except turn the headlight knob to the first click (parking lights) instead of the ignition switch. Once you've found those, you can find the speaker wires, unless you're running aftermarket speaker wire, which is what I did. To find your speaker wires, you can set the DMM to ohms, and probe the remaining wires systematically until you find a pair that gets you some sort of continuity, probably roughly between 4 and 8 ohms). This assumes the speakers are good, and you'll still need to determine polarity, or your speakers will be out of phase. You can use a 9V battery to "pop test" them quickly. If you run your own wires neatly though, you won't have to deal with that or the dinky little wires that might be too short anyway.
Hope that helps, feel free to ask more questions!
-Trevor
10-30-2013, 03:47 PM
#5
Registered User
I wasn't sure what the second picture was about, but it looks like the fuse is falling out. If the radio fuse is blown, you'll spend a while trying to chase down the right wire since there wont be any voltage on it. Make sure your radio fuse is good first.
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