Starting rebuilt 22re for the first time
 

I just got done with my 5 month rebuild. I had everything hooked up and than unplugged the center plug off the distributor cap to cycle the motor and build oil pressure prior to lighting it off. It cycled fine for 7 seconds and than stopped. I got out and saw the banjo bolt for one side of the fuel filter and the banjo for the cold start injector were pissing fuel out. I had assumed that maybe fuel got in the starter or that after 5 months of sitting, the battery was dead. I charged the battery, plugged the center plug on the dizzie, checked the FSM for wiring and everything looked good. Still won't start. It clicks and than nothing. When I turn the key on the CEL comes on. I removed the 40 or 30 amp fuse for the starter and when I turn the key, the CEL no longer comes on. I've checked my connections and the FSM and seem to be at a loss. Anyone have a suggestion? Thanks

Well, for one I would get your fuel leaks figured out. Then I would double check the timing. Once the battery is charged, it should start. Then you can fine tune the timing to get it correct.

There isn't much to the 22RE's to get running...

Fuel leaks have been fixed. I'll be honest, I don't understand how timing would prevent the motor from turning over unless I have timing so far off that I am experiencing interference to which would make a small problem bigger. I will check timing again. Thanks

ignition timing won't affect if the engine turns or not, but crak to cam timing might. Some will argue that though.

But, IMO if something is clicking when your turning the key the the issue lies with your starter and/or grounds. CEL is supposed to come on with the key on and not running. It goes off when you remove that AM1 fuse because you basically remove all power to the ECU. I think. lol.

Anyway double check all of your grounds, should be 3 of them on a 22re. One behind the head attached to the firewall, on from the battery to an engine mount and I believe on more off the intake manifold to where I forget. But I know there are 3. Search on here for ground locations if your not sure as I know it's been covered.

A low battery will definitely cause this as well. The yotas require alot of CCA to get going IMO probably due to poor ground wire/starter relay design. Which is why so many end up doing the hotshot relay mod as well as upgrading battery cables.

Another thing that causes it is starter contacts, but if it started fine before the rebuild, I doubt that is your problem here, unless those are starting to go along with a low battery. First thing to do is fully charge that battery.

Rotated motor by wrench with no apparent issues. Battery appears to be charged.

I will check the grounds. I felt good on them already but I'll keep at it. The issue arised when fuel pissed out and possibly got the starter wet. I'll keep tinkering. Thanks for the input/advice so far.

if the engine hasn't started and the key is on the CEL should be on, reading codes isn't gonna matter or tell you anything useful.

Sounds like you don't have all the ground wires hookd up. At least from my experiences. Make sure you have the ground on back of head first. Then , make sure the motor is grounded to frame at the intake manifold. Ground battery to motor at the motor mount bracket. If those are all good and grounds all good... It is something else. Also make sure the battery terminals (down into the wires) are not corroded.



could be a bad starter... but free fixes are always good.

I got it running. I still have the hood removed and the ignition box was really hot being in the sun. I covered it and came back after dinner and it started. My alternator smokes when the battery is plugged in. I think I pissed the power steering fluid on it when I removed the pump. Getting a new one in the morning. Thanks for the help.

sweet! good to hear.

Well not all is good. Alternator replaced and working I think.... When I blip the gas, the battery light and brake light blink on and off. Also I think I'm pissing oil out of the lower drivers side bolt for the oil pump. I removed it and put more silicone on it. Possibly more problems but working through them. Hopefully not the new front crank seal.......

So when the motor got rebuilt, the shop forgot to put on the new timing cover and instead put the old one on. I didn't care as the guy said the old one looked fine. I got home and the old bolt the runs vertical at the top was tightened so much that the aluminum had stress cracked, which was done by the shop. I brought it back and they installed the new one. My guess is they tried to cut corners and didn't put replace the gasket(which I supplied them with Toyota FIPG) and just sandwiched it back together. It looks really poorly done and appears to be leaking in several spots.