dont do front digs with 38's aired down on asphalt
 

BOOOM!!!

CRAP!!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...4/599e6413.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...4/a25d4659.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...4/3ae592c0.jpg

at least i was in my own driveway :bang:

Wow that is something I have never seen before :scared: :eek2: :eek2:

Surely you weren't surprised when that happened...

I take it you're running longfields. Nice to see the 5.29's teeth held up.

i was surprised that it broke there, i figured that i just would take the teeth off the pinion, which may have happened anyway
its possible that i did shear a tooth off which got bound up in the ring/pinion and BAM, i guess that its better to break in the driveway vs. the trail :bang:

yes, but just the treated ringed stockers

Quality carnage...

Call me a noob, but what's a front dig?
Is that one of those "NW" terms?

So...














What's a front dig?????????

front dig...

when one shifts there twin sticked transfer case to front wheel drive (low range) in order to pull the front end. (usually to make a hard turn were you dont want the back end PUSHing you forward

:bang:

And I thought I was hardXcore!!!

so its somewhere between crossing a ditch and front wheel drive? :think:

You too huh? The front wheel drive thing makes more sense to me.

So I was wrong...

Sorry guys.

Very impressive.

cool carnage...

Important note: This is not possible w/ the Toy t-case w/o a rear shaft disconnect or Marlin's new prototype tcase... Not sure when Marlin's kit is coming out, but it'll be cool.

SuperJoe - what are you running for a tcase?

If anyone could elaborate for the noob...how come this is happening. As far as I understand, you are using FWD in low gear, so the shaft is spinning fast, but why would it break especially on a drive way?

Also, how does having a shaft disconnect cause this? And how does the prototype case help avoid that?

my rear shaft was out of the truck, 2nd gear low=boom

here are some more pics, i did in fact loose some teeth
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...4/fba023b9.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...4/4a65ed96.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...4/5671673f.jpg

that brown stuff on the teeth is just some dirt from my fingers

not quite :laugh:

A driveshaft disconnect, twin stick, or the marlin prototype doesn't cause anything, they ALLOW you to have front wheel drive only. Basically, he's turning using only the giant front tires on cement. You know what happens when you try to make a sharp turn on dry pavement in 4wd...lots of fun noises.

this happened because i was being an idiot, and was trying to spin my front tires on wet asphalt with only 5psi in them=lots of traction, but i do believe that this failure was caused by some existing damage, last time out wheeling, i had the front end in the air a couple of feet trying to make it over a ledge, with a lot of wheel spin when i landed, i did that at least 5 times, oh well

Cool.

You can see the case hardening of the pinion shaft at the failure surface. The outer 0.05" of the shaft is smooth indicating a brittle failure while the interior is more ductile.

Thanks for some of the explanations, but I am still a lil confused. If you are front digging (with a twin stick - dual tcases) means 1st tcase is in 4low and second is in N, right? So why would there be any binding unless the front is locked?

I am very sorry for the Q's, I am just trying to get this straight in my head.

ok, my rear driveshaft was not in the truck when i did this, i just had the rear case in 4LO, the front case was in high, so only the front wheels were driving, and on a high traction surface like asphalt something has to give, and in my case it was the ring & pinion, marlin crawler is working on making a Toyota t-case capable of disconnecting the rear shaft so you can use only FWD to help pull you around an obstacle, usually you only see d-line disconnects on buggy's or comp rigs

I get it all now, I was only confused because I didn't understand the two different typed of stress. In my setup, I cause binding because of not having a center differential, in your case, you just had too much traction and the gear couldn't handle it. I kept trying to apply "my" type of binding to your scenario which just doesn't apply.

Thanks for the explanations and patience!

no problem

(I apologise if this got a clear answer later in the thread, I haven't read to the end yet.) edit: LOL, I was so close to the end....

Marko - nothing was binding. Nothing was wrong really. It happened because with all the gear reduction available, plus not splitting the increased torque between the front and rear wheels like normal, plus the super traction available on pavement with aired down tires - he simply grossly applied much more torque than the axle could take. Pilot error.
If it hadn't broke there it surely would have broken something else - in fact it did damage the gear teeth - but it could have snapped an axle or snapped an outer joint or busted the hubs or twisted the driveshaft or something - something was gonna go bust.

Superjoe - 2 questions?
1 -is your torque arm still installed? I've seen this exact failure before on rigs without the front torque arm - high torque and axle wrap...
2- did you follow the time honored tradition before you perfromed this standard-mil-spec-clutch-drop test - and utter the invocation "Hold my beer and watch this." ?

:lol: Heh - Heh...Nice pics Superjoe, if I may ask, what kind of camera do you use? those are some clear closeups.
[Hijack Off]

torque rod has been gone for about a year now, the u-joint at the axle showed no signs of binding
not really i was by myself being an idiot, costing myself money :pat: