clutch chatter brand new marlin clutch
02-25-2011, 05:20 PM
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clutch chatter brand new marlin clutch
hey guys just got done doing my 22re rebuild everything is great got about 1,500 miles on it. went with the marlin 1,200 clutch and had my flywheel redone had it done .026 like marlin said and about 15miles ago started getting clutch chatter in 1st and 2nd gear only.ive searched for the last 3 days and really havent found anyone with chatter in just 1st and 2nd. its worse in 2nd gear. what do you guys think could be going on? getting ready to do dual t-cases in 2 weeks so its not a big deal if i have to replace my flywheel but i dont want this to happen again right before i start wheeling the truck for summer.
02-25-2011, 07:29 PM
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The clutch was probably not properly broken in correctly. Some clutches dont need to be, but most high performance clutches do. This sounds crazy but it works. Put your rig into 3rd or 4th gear and make the clutch slip for just a few moments time (Maybe five seconds or so) then put the truck in neutral and let it cool off. I know several people that have done this in muscle cars and I have done this myself. It worked for me. Like you said your doing more driveline work soon so what do you have to loose. Good luck and happy wheelin!
03-07-2011, 06:23 AM
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I always, right before I put the clutch disk on, I spray everything with brake cleaner and let it air dry. I like to get all finger prints and greese off everything.
If there is grease on the disk, it will cause some slight chatter.
If there is grease on the disk, it will cause some slight chatter.
03-09-2011, 10:55 PM
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I also recommend cleaning everything before installation, but oil on the disk/flywheel/pressure plate would have been burned off after the first few good heat cycles so you'd think that after 1,500 miles it wouldn't be a factor.... unless 94sasyota has a "Least likely to smoke his clutch" lifetime achievement award lol
SC81YOTA is right in that it's important to break in the clutch correctly, however over time most issues should work themselves out. Please continue reading..
Here is why we need to break in the clutch: The disk is manufactured to a certain level of tolerance in the surface of the material. Because it's not pure glass, there are microscopic ridges and valleys across the surface of the clutch material. Normal break in requires the user to not use or "show" full torque to the clutch for at least 500-1,000 miles. (Most manufactures require a longer break in period than this but this seems to be good in our experience.) The issue is when you slap in a new clutch and apply full power during engagement, remember that initially only the ridges or high-spots on the disk's surface are bearing most of the load (since they contact the flywheel and pressure plate first and with the most amount of force). These high-spots amount for maybe only 50% of the disk surface, so you're putting way more force on these spots than they would normally be bearing. Therefore the temperature of these high-spots rises quickly and if the process is continuously repeated then they will become glazed or polished in a way that it takes much longer for the flywheel & pressure plate to properly wear the high-spots down.
This could cause chatter because now you'd have spots that were glazed smooth and now have a lower coefficient of friction than other areas of the disk so the disk would grab, then release, then grab, then release, and so on until fully engaged.
Side note: This is why new or resurfaced flywheels and pressure plates have a slight roughness to their surface.... they need to be slightly abrasive to wear down these high-spots on the disk. Same goes for brake rotors and pads, criss-cross patterns of a freshly honed engine cylinder bore to break in piston rings, and also why you should always hit axles with some sand paper before installing new seals.
This isn't to say that 94sasyota didn't break his clutch in, but it could be 1 possibility.
I'd say to give it more time and see if the condition improves. It may just be that the clutch is still breaking in and once all the high-spots and low-spots are coplanar, then it would become smooth indeed.
94sasyota: When did you begin to notice the chatter? Give it another week or 2 and let us know if the chatter is getting worse. We stand behind our clutches 100% and will gladly replace the clutch if it isn't performing up to our standards.
Regards,
BigMike
EDIT: I see, he noticed the chatter about 15 miles ago. Put another couple gas tanks through and let us know how it's doing
SC81YOTA is right in that it's important to break in the clutch correctly, however over time most issues should work themselves out. Please continue reading..
Here is why we need to break in the clutch: The disk is manufactured to a certain level of tolerance in the surface of the material. Because it's not pure glass, there are microscopic ridges and valleys across the surface of the clutch material. Normal break in requires the user to not use or "show" full torque to the clutch for at least 500-1,000 miles. (Most manufactures require a longer break in period than this but this seems to be good in our experience.) The issue is when you slap in a new clutch and apply full power during engagement, remember that initially only the ridges or high-spots on the disk's surface are bearing most of the load (since they contact the flywheel and pressure plate first and with the most amount of force). These high-spots amount for maybe only 50% of the disk surface, so you're putting way more force on these spots than they would normally be bearing. Therefore the temperature of these high-spots rises quickly and if the process is continuously repeated then they will become glazed or polished in a way that it takes much longer for the flywheel & pressure plate to properly wear the high-spots down.
This could cause chatter because now you'd have spots that were glazed smooth and now have a lower coefficient of friction than other areas of the disk so the disk would grab, then release, then grab, then release, and so on until fully engaged.
Side note: This is why new or resurfaced flywheels and pressure plates have a slight roughness to their surface.... they need to be slightly abrasive to wear down these high-spots on the disk. Same goes for brake rotors and pads, criss-cross patterns of a freshly honed engine cylinder bore to break in piston rings, and also why you should always hit axles with some sand paper before installing new seals.
This isn't to say that 94sasyota didn't break his clutch in, but it could be 1 possibility.
I'd say to give it more time and see if the condition improves. It may just be that the clutch is still breaking in and once all the high-spots and low-spots are coplanar, then it would become smooth indeed.
94sasyota: When did you begin to notice the chatter? Give it another week or 2 and let us know if the chatter is getting worse. We stand behind our clutches 100% and will gladly replace the clutch if it isn't performing up to our standards.
Regards,
BigMike
EDIT: I see, he noticed the chatter about 15 miles ago. Put another couple gas tanks through and let us know how it's doing
Last edited by BigMike; 03-09-2011 at 11:04 PM.
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