redbayredneck

My '85 22RE was slow to start yesterday when I got off work. On my way home (after driving it for 50+ miles to run errands) it started stumbling and died going down the highway. I let it sit for a minute, and it tried to start but was acting like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Now it won't start at all. I think its the pump, because I don't hear it turning on when I turn the key. But I wanted a few other opinions and maybe a list to check before tearing into replacing the pump.














Thanks in advance!

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Check for power at the pump at the appropriate time. Cranking, or key on, engine off for few seconds? I don't know the correct timing for the 22RE pump.

Mine will not come on until I bump the key to start position, then it will pump for 2-3 seconds and turn off. But this is controlled via Circuit Open Relay and EFI system.

But check for voltage at the pump, if you have power, replace the pump and all filters.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Here is how you do a Fuel Pump Bypass on the 85/86. To see if the pump will kick on.
Jumper wire the Yellow Plug on Drivers side. ( Jumper wire should be in both contacts for testing, I just didnt have it in for picture purposes and mostly a referece for me at a later time.)

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Can Red do the B+ & FP on the diagnostic connector and do the same?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I believe that is on the 87 and newer trucks as they have the diagnostic port on the passenger side. If I am correct, they combined all of the ports into the square plug instead of having them in different areas like they do on the 85/86.

It isnt marked on the plug, but I bet those are the B+ and FP that you are talking about in the square plug. It is how you jump the fuel pump on 85/86.

Same thing for the timing and CEL codes. Probably the T1 and E1 but on the 85/86 it is a round plug on the driver side and the 87 and up they combined it into the square plug on passenger side.

Each year from 84-89 Toyota changed something in the wiring harnesses. Some noticeable and some not so noticeable. 85/86 are about the closest of those years. I think the 89 and up is just about all the same with exception of adding more emissions and I bet they changed things in there as well but I am not as familiar with the 89 and up.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info Terrys87. What a walking a Toyota encyclopedia you are.
Or rolling. Or sitting. Whichever the case may be...

redbayredneck

Thank y'all, I will be trying that jumper trick as soon as I get home to work on the truck. Will keep y'all posted.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks rokblok... I got myself into situations and those taught me alot. Fixing problems can be frustrating but that is the best way to learn o these.

redbayredneck... If you hear the pump, I would suspect the Circuit Opening Relay behind the passenger speaker. If not, it is most likely the fuel pump. I use fuel pumps off of ebay and have great luck with them. I hav yet to replace on from ebay and I can get them shipped for $25 to the house. Dont think you are going to like the price at parts store or dealer. If you have to replace the fuel pump, check to see if your return line is clogged as well. Isnt NW Florida humid? If so, you probably wont like seeing what is in your tank and that humidity tends to create rust and clogs the sock on the pump causing it to over work among other issues.

redbayredneck

Yeah... NW Florida stays around 80% humidity minimum. Not looking forward to it lol.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Just to make your day, this is what I run into,lol. No biggie though, I consider this a $60 dollar repair. A few gallons of white vinegar, $20 for a can of Red Kote and a $25 fuel pump. You can buy a new fuel tank, but I am a cheapscape. You can clean the entire system up as good as new.

If you have to pull the fuel pump, be careful and dont break the metal line to the assembly. It is a hard part to find and typically runs $150.

redbayredneck

Well I did the jumper test. I could here the relay clicking in the cab, but no sound whatsoever from the fuel pump. In the process of removing the bed right now (Was gonna replace the bed anyway, this just restarted the drive for that project)


Is this the pump you get: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELPHI-FE006...880a76&vxp=mtr ?


Excuse the dirt:

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The one that I used they no longer have in stock. The post that provide power is different in size. One is a 6mm nut and the other is an 8mm nut. They may have extra parts in the one that you are showing and it might work but I am not for sure on that. Also it does not come with the strainer which you can also get off of ebay. I called them up and they just don't have them anymore. I just used my last spare and now I have to find another source.

The power wires on your pump assembly are hardwired to the assembly and like I mentioned before are different size connectors to keep you from getting them reversed. I see several others on line just not sure which is a good one to get. When I do find one I will get a couple of extra. Not they go bad, I just work on other trucks as well and eventually need one.

You want them with the two post on top, a strainer, and the little rubber spacer on the bottom of the pump.

Here is what I used to get. The one on the left is Denso that the person kept running the tank low on fuel and it just over heated it.

New $25 dollar fuel pump. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Pump-Gas-Truck-4-Runner-Toyota-Celica-89-88-87-86-Camry-91-90-85-MR2-/230691053648?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b6422050

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

This is the one you would need. Strainer is longer then what I would like and not sure if it would work. Has the post, and the rubber cushion at the bottom that is needed. I am just concerned with the strainers length.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-AIRTEX-E8023-/320856623703?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item4ab48b8a57&vxp=mtr

redbayredneck

Thanks for all the info, I ended up going with a Denso unit. Just waiting on parts to be delivered. I've got the bed off and I am sitting at a standstill until I get the new parts.

redbayredneck

Here is how it sits right now.

redbayredneck

Got the old pump out and the new pump plumbed in. Surprisingly didn't have any rust in the tank. :hill bill:

Anybody know what size nuts go on the posts of a denso pump? The PO had rigged an american pump in place and it didn't wire in the same way.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Should be two different sizes. One is a 6mm and the other is an 8mm. They do that to try and prevent getting polarity mixed up. Also the leads should be different size to help prevent that. On top of the pump it will have - or + as well.

redbayredneck

I got it. Thanks! Ended up being a size m4 and M5. Got it running late last night. Now to reconstruct lol