best way to time it ..leave the vacuum lines - O N ! - - thats the way its gonna run anyways , set it a 5 degrees at idle . . .then throttle up ..it will move to 12 degrees with throttle applied . . . .thats how it is supposed to run real time . .so leave the vacuum lines on !

 

We must understand ALL of the components in a system. You have static timing without the vacuum line, 0 degrees for 22r (carb) and 5 degrees for 22re (ECU). Vacuum advance timing, 12 degrees for both 22r and 22re, and then we have mechanical advance when the centrifugal forces sling the distributor weights out at high rpm. That, and an increase in vacuum, is why the timing mark "moves" as you rev the engine. The static timing is first then the vacuum advance helps during low to mid range rpm as the distributor's mechanical advance slowly takes over for mid to high range rpm. The combination of all 3 should gives us Total timing. You must set them all correctly. Too low of timing causes the motor to run too hot and sluggish with bad gas mileage. Follow the service manual.

I wish I could explain more/better but I'm down with a shoulder and typing off handed.

 

Nope!

 

for the 22r,the 0 is for when u r sticking your distributor in,pulley on 0 rotir pointing at #1 spark on the cap...warm the engine ,remove the 2 vac lines n plug them, with hoses removed removed set your timing ti 5 degrees before top dead center,when u re attach ur vac lines it should b at about 12 degrees.

 

i think you set/insert the distributor to get the rotor to #1 when the timing mark is at 10 BTDC
so the bolt is middle of the arced slot so you can adjust
then maybe set timing with light to 12 btdc with hoses to dist (2 hose pot on mine)
take off hoses and crimp timing goes to 0 tdc
this is a weber 32/36 on 22r running 91 octane
going to do this today, wish me luck

update,
what i typed above is pure bunk! but i did watch a LCE yt video that did this so their distributors are different on the builds?
#1 , o tdc, but my timing wont got to 5 btdc with 2 hoses,
im thinking the manifold vac to vac pot spiggot closest to dizzy delete
carb vac line to dizzy pot spigot closest to rad
also i think i am battling fuel flow issues , so everything is sputtering and not smooth
will post updates when the 1/8 npt to 1/4" fuel barbs come in for the new fuel pressure reg

 

You only unplug the vacuum line closest to valve cover when you set timing. Be sure to plug the vacuum line after you remove it while you are setting timing. If the timing doesn't advance when you plug the vacuum line to the distributor advance, then the distributor advance is broken.

Here is excerpt from the factory service manual. You can download a manual from this link.
https://web.archive.org/web/20110102...ttora.com/FSM/

 

thanks for the info!
just to be clear - the vac hose closest to valve cover goes to manifold spigot
and the vac hose closest to the radiator goes to the base of the weber 32/36?
a lot to learn at the moment for me!!

 

Sorry I missed that you're using a weber. I'm still using a stock Aisan carb.

 

webers may be a little work to get set up right by the looks of it!
i wonder if you can desmog an aisan carby and get it running?
it has 2 solenoid cut offs and a bunch of extra moving linkages on it
this pickup ran on natural gas for 20 years but it is getting harder to find
as every service station revamp they take away the LPG
so i just will use the petrol

 

I think there is a lot of info on the internet about desmogging a 22R. Found this but haven't read through it. I'm happy with leaving my setup the way it is. I have removed the EGR though.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...torial-264405/

 

i think aisan carbs must be higher pressure fuel input from the mechanical pump at about 7psi ish
i just ordered a mighty mite H012-426 electric pump (1.5 to 4 psi) and have a 0.5 to 5.5psi dial type
inline regulator and an saas liquid pressure gauge for the final pressure measurement
i aim to do 2.5psi, i am betting on my fuel delivery being poor and maybe pulsing, not consistent
flow to the weber 32/36
after that i probably will install the gm ignitor wired parallel to the original(only running one or the other)
to see if it makes things "cleaner" with firing
one thing i don't know is the proper hot or cold resistance of my pickup in the distributor
mine is 250 warm and i did see this in a workshop manual somewhere, maybe haynes
but some people quote 140-180,, confusing

 

funny thing i have seen when going to check valve lash, my timing chain is sloppy and the exhaust side guide is missing!
will need to fix this before any tuning could be attempted, pretty sure this will cause farts and splutters and weird fuel
pressures. poor old thing , lucky toyotas are tough vehicles, because i have abused this one!

 

Definitely don't drive it with a sloppy chain and the guide missing. If the chain breaks, the engine is done.

 

you are very correct! i was mortified to see it myself. i am learning like a first year apprentice : ))
i have the front up on stands, water, radiator and oil out and a knowledable friend coming to
help in a few days, i think the oil pan comes off and lots of finding bits of plastic to come.

 

and to continue the sillyness, after making the timing chain system all beautiful and new, we discover the cheap ass ignitor(emergency spare) did not work from one day to the next
i kept the old one starts fine, but poor idle, darn idle solenoid had shorted to 0.6 ohms, and by the looks its not genuine being silver and the weber ones are
that cadmuim plated orangy sort of colour - part on order.
i do have a run on problem , so more learning to come.!~!
i may try also the gm ignitor mod using the good stuff from rock auto and a holley electric mighty mite pump. with reg of course