22r build or 22ret bulid? or swap? All purpose vehicle
#1
22r build or 22ret bulid? or swap? All purpose vehicle
I'm going to be doing a full rebuild and drive this truck for quite some time. I've already done a lot of other mechanical work and the engine is one of my last stops to make this thing rock solid mechanically.
I was look at putting cam, header, possibly 20r head on the 22r bloc. I've got a weber 32/36 already and removed the egr. I'll probably throw on whatever viable upgrades there are.
The other option is to go out and find the 22ret and build it up nice and solid.
I was looking at doing this rather than a swap b/c it just doesn't seem there would be a real simple solid swap that would boost the power and still get around 20mpg. Please enlighten me with options. I would like to stay under 2k (maybe a little more if I see something I really like) for which ever option. I'm looking for something that won't take an ungodly amount of time b/c I have to have this thing up and running for this coming winter and I don't have every waking second to spend on it.
I was look at putting cam, header, possibly 20r head on the 22r bloc. I've got a weber 32/36 already and removed the egr. I'll probably throw on whatever viable upgrades there are.
The other option is to go out and find the 22ret and build it up nice and solid.
I was looking at doing this rather than a swap b/c it just doesn't seem there would be a real simple solid swap that would boost the power and still get around 20mpg. Please enlighten me with options. I would like to stay under 2k (maybe a little more if I see something I really like) for which ever option. I'm looking for something that won't take an ungodly amount of time b/c I have to have this thing up and running for this coming winter and I don't have every waking second to spend on it.
#2
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I performed the 20R head conversion years ago and it is a strong running engine. The amount of torque is just ridiculous, and the reliability is as you would expect from a toyota. It was my daily driver after the engine work for years. You will be in it a bit of cash though. The machine work to deck the head to the height of the 22R head is expensive, plus all the goodies to make it run strong.
You can private message me and I will give you a run down of all the parts that went into mine.
You can private message me and I will give you a run down of all the parts that went into mine.
#3
Well... I've got to speed up the process b/c I need to sell my car soon and that means my truck will be the only vehicle I will have then.
What are some of the major swaps out there that don't require major custom modifications? Looking for some decent power/efficiency.
Otherwise I will probably build up the 22r, but just don't think I will be satisfied w/it.
What are some of the major swaps out there that don't require major custom modifications? Looking for some decent power/efficiency.
Otherwise I will probably build up the 22r, but just don't think I will be satisfied w/it.
#4
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Have you looked at LC Engineering web site? They have complete hydro-tested motors. After all the money I spent on customizing my 20R head conversion, I think I possibly would have been better off buying a block from them. If nothing else, buy a cam, a header, and some exhaust work from wherever your comfortable. I have had nice results from my clay smith cam and hooker header. If you can find a machine shop that does good work, and a viable 20R head, mill it down, have it cut for 22r valves and stuff it with some isky helper springs inside the stock valve train to keep the cam from frying the valves. Use flat top pistons to clear the valves, and possibly have the advance curve of the distributor adjusted to match what the motor is doing.
#6
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7m and 3rz get great power and 20 mpg.
If you need to sell your car soon I would recommend building a 22r in what ever flavor you like. It should be faster to get done.
If you need to sell your car soon I would recommend building a 22r in what ever flavor you like. It should be faster to get done.
#7
So, if I were to do the 4.3 vortec, what kind of modifications am I looking at and a rough price for this swap (will do the work myself)?
I don't mind abandoning the yota "badge". I respect the 22r very much so, but I've just got to have some more power.
I don't mind abandoning the yota "badge". I respect the 22r very much so, but I've just got to have some more power.
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#9
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The 2f and 3f-e never get 20mpg. Maybe it was because they were in a huge tank of a vehicle, but the engines themselves were not very efficient. Look at the HP numbers. the 2f is a 4.2L engine with 125 hp and 200 ft/tq. 3f/3f-e is a 4.0L with 140/155 hp and around 220 ft/lbs. the 7mge is a 3.0L with over 180hp and torque.
#11
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7mge's are very easy to come by. at least here in georgia. even 7mgte (turbo). they were in the 3rd gen supras. 86.5-91 if my memory serves me correctly.
i have a 84 celica supra, 85 celica supra, and 84 celica gts. just sold another 85 celica supra. i am pretty active on the celicasupra.com forum. if you need any help with the M series engines just let me know. im not an expert but i would be more than willing to help with what knowledge i do have and direct you to the right people on that forum.
a 7m swap in a 4x4 would be pretty cool in my book.
-dannyr
i have a 84 celica supra, 85 celica supra, and 84 celica gts. just sold another 85 celica supra. i am pretty active on the celicasupra.com forum. if you need any help with the M series engines just let me know. im not an expert but i would be more than willing to help with what knowledge i do have and direct you to the right people on that forum.
a 7m swap in a 4x4 would be pretty cool in my book.
-dannyr
#12
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I went with the 22rte, Its bored .30 over, doa racing head and cam, and a few other goodies. Iam very impressed with it, on my last trip i got 19.5 mpg going 70-80 mph. That is also with 4.88 gears, 4 inch lift, 33s, and it has power to spin the tires on tar.
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if i were to try this swap from the beginning again, id probably just go the extra bit and get a 1uz or 2uz. i will anyway one day with another truck, but the nice thing about 7m's, they bolt in, literally.
bellhousing, motor mounts, clutches, etc. mind you its not just a drop in with 7m parts. you have to sourch the w58 bellhousing (for a w56 tranny) and 5m motor mount brackets. if you want to run the turbo clutch setup for the 7mgte, you have to make a custom bellhousing to mate to an r150 or 151. or you can go the extra mile and have the r154 modded to accept the gear driven case. but thats if you want to go that far and have taller gears for highway.
the 4.3 ive seen work good, but im personally not a fan of vortec v6's. they have some issues that im not fond of, and the power/gas mileage/dependability ratio isnt nearly as high as the toyota alternative. on top of that, you have to buy the adapter kits or make them yourself, which will add up. and if youre going to drop the dough, why not just do a sbc or sbf swap anyway? same mileage, more power and same cost. and at that point, why not stay brand loyal and do the 1-2uz and have better mileage and similar power anyway!? haha
ive seen several threads where guys are running 5m and 7m's with 4.56:1-5.29:1 gears and 33-35 inch tires, still plugging 20+mpg, as well as not having to downshift on hills, in fact having a power surplus.
with my setup i plan on getting between 21-25 mpg (what i got with my built 22r and 32x11.50x15's an stock 4.10's). it might change a lil after supercharging, but not much. at cruise i could actually gain a lil bit, but im not holding my breath.
anyway, thats my .02 cents.
bellhousing, motor mounts, clutches, etc. mind you its not just a drop in with 7m parts. you have to sourch the w58 bellhousing (for a w56 tranny) and 5m motor mount brackets. if you want to run the turbo clutch setup for the 7mgte, you have to make a custom bellhousing to mate to an r150 or 151. or you can go the extra mile and have the r154 modded to accept the gear driven case. but thats if you want to go that far and have taller gears for highway.
the 4.3 ive seen work good, but im personally not a fan of vortec v6's. they have some issues that im not fond of, and the power/gas mileage/dependability ratio isnt nearly as high as the toyota alternative. on top of that, you have to buy the adapter kits or make them yourself, which will add up. and if youre going to drop the dough, why not just do a sbc or sbf swap anyway? same mileage, more power and same cost. and at that point, why not stay brand loyal and do the 1-2uz and have better mileage and similar power anyway!? haha
ive seen several threads where guys are running 5m and 7m's with 4.56:1-5.29:1 gears and 33-35 inch tires, still plugging 20+mpg, as well as not having to downshift on hills, in fact having a power surplus.
with my setup i plan on getting between 21-25 mpg (what i got with my built 22r and 32x11.50x15's an stock 4.10's). it might change a lil after supercharging, but not much. at cruise i could actually gain a lil bit, but im not holding my breath.
anyway, thats my .02 cents.
Last edited by 87hilux7mgze; 11-25-2011 at 11:18 AM.
#15
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if i were to try this swap from the beginning again, id probably just go the extra bit and get a 1uz or 2uz. i will anyway one day with another truck, but the nice thing about 7m's, they bolt in, literally.
bellhousing, motor mounts, clutches, etc. mind you its not just a drop in with 7m parts. you have to sourch the w58 bellhousing (for a w56 tranny) and 5m motor mount brackets. if you want to run the turbo clutch setup for the 7mgte, you have to make a custom bellhousing to mate to an r150 or 151. or you can go the extra mile and have the r154 modded to accept the gear driven case. but thats if you want to go that far and have taller gears for highway.
the 4.3 ive seen work good, but im personally not a fan of vortec v6's. they have some issues that im not fond of, and the power/gas mileage/dependability ratio isnt nearly as high as the toyota alternative. on top of that, you have to buy the adapter kits or make them yourself, which will add up. and if youre going to drop the dough, why not just do a sbc or sbf swap anyway? same mileage, more power and same cost. and at that point, why not stay brand loyal and do the 1-2uz and have better mileage and similar power anyway!? haha
ive seen several threads where guys are running 5m and 7m's with 4.56:1-5.29:1 gears and 33-35 inch tires, still plugging 20+mpg, as well as not having to downshift on hills, in fact having a power surplus.
with my setup i plan on getting between 21-25 mpg (what i got with my built 22r and 32x11.50x15's an stock 4.10's). it might change a lil after supercharging, but not much. at cruise i could actually gain a lil bit, but im not holding my breath.
anyway, thats my .02 cents.
bellhousing, motor mounts, clutches, etc. mind you its not just a drop in with 7m parts. you have to sourch the w58 bellhousing (for a w56 tranny) and 5m motor mount brackets. if you want to run the turbo clutch setup for the 7mgte, you have to make a custom bellhousing to mate to an r150 or 151. or you can go the extra mile and have the r154 modded to accept the gear driven case. but thats if you want to go that far and have taller gears for highway.
the 4.3 ive seen work good, but im personally not a fan of vortec v6's. they have some issues that im not fond of, and the power/gas mileage/dependability ratio isnt nearly as high as the toyota alternative. on top of that, you have to buy the adapter kits or make them yourself, which will add up. and if youre going to drop the dough, why not just do a sbc or sbf swap anyway? same mileage, more power and same cost. and at that point, why not stay brand loyal and do the 1-2uz and have better mileage and similar power anyway!? haha
ive seen several threads where guys are running 5m and 7m's with 4.56:1-5.29:1 gears and 33-35 inch tires, still plugging 20+mpg, as well as not having to downshift on hills, in fact having a power surplus.
with my setup i plan on getting between 21-25 mpg (what i got with my built 22r and 32x11.50x15's an stock 4.10's). it might change a lil after supercharging, but not much. at cruise i could actually gain a lil bit, but im not holding my breath.
anyway, thats my .02 cents.
Many upgrades coming to my 85. Just want the most bang for the buck.
#18
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What is a 1uz or 2uz....?
I want to transform my basically stock 85 to a stout work truck.
***edit***
Ok....Goggled it and found http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_UZ_engine .
So I remember from the days I would get the Downey catalogs in the mail. From what I remember the output shaft on the stock transfer case would shear off since that was the weak link when doing the Buick V6 conversion so....they would recomend a T-350 auto trans. So with a 1uz or 2uz engine how is this issue addressed using the stock 5 speed?
I have heard that the Australian turbo diesels are stout engines. Is this a reasonable option in the US market?
FWIW I'd be happy fine with HP #'s in the range of 190-250 and mpg #'s of 18-22 mpg running empty at 70-75 mph highway
I want to transform my basically stock 85 to a stout work truck.
***edit***
Ok....Goggled it and found http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_UZ_engine .
So I remember from the days I would get the Downey catalogs in the mail. From what I remember the output shaft on the stock transfer case would shear off since that was the weak link when doing the Buick V6 conversion so....they would recomend a T-350 auto trans. So with a 1uz or 2uz engine how is this issue addressed using the stock 5 speed?
I have heard that the Australian turbo diesels are stout engines. Is this a reasonable option in the US market?
FWIW I'd be happy fine with HP #'s in the range of 190-250 and mpg #'s of 18-22 mpg running empty at 70-75 mph highway
Last edited by 1985eXtraCab4x4; 11-28-2011 at 01:52 PM.
#19
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1uz-fe is the engine code for the lexus/toyota 4.0 liter v8 found in ls400 and sc400 cars.
2uz-fe is the engine code for the toyota tundra 4.7 liter v8.
both engines are very similar externally. both have great power to weight ratios and can deliver great fuel mileage. a search on here will yield you quite a few results.
if you want a stout work truck, stick with a 22r or re. when put together well, they are reliable, fuel efficient and can put out ok power to push around our trucks.
if you want something more that you could take off roading and have some fun in while not sacrificing power or fuel mileage, a good 3.4 swap, 7m or 1uz/2uz is the way to go, if you have to cash and drive to push through the swap.
2uz-fe is the engine code for the toyota tundra 4.7 liter v8.
both engines are very similar externally. both have great power to weight ratios and can deliver great fuel mileage. a search on here will yield you quite a few results.
if you want a stout work truck, stick with a 22r or re. when put together well, they are reliable, fuel efficient and can put out ok power to push around our trucks.
if you want something more that you could take off roading and have some fun in while not sacrificing power or fuel mileage, a good 3.4 swap, 7m or 1uz/2uz is the way to go, if you have to cash and drive to push through the swap.
#20
Registered User
..."snip".....
if you want a stout work truck, stick with a 22r or re. when put together well, they are reliable, fuel efficient and can put out ok power to push around our trucks.
if you want something more that you could take off roading and have some fun in while not sacrificing power or fuel mileage, a good 3.4 swap, 7m or 1uz/2uz is the way to go, if you have to cash and drive to push through the swap.
if you want a stout work truck, stick with a 22r or re. when put together well, they are reliable, fuel efficient and can put out ok power to push around our trucks.
if you want something more that you could take off roading and have some fun in while not sacrificing power or fuel mileage, a good 3.4 swap, 7m or 1uz/2uz is the way to go, if you have to cash and drive to push through the swap.
I’ll have to look around to see what the most cost effective upgrades would be for the 22r. The only real glaring issue is the alarming amount of oil it consumes running at full throttle? I’m assuming it is escaping via the valve guides or seals. I wish this issue had been addressed when the head was off but that happened during my busy season and I hade zero time to micro manage the repair process. I run Lucas stop leak and 20w-50 oil to slow it down. I’m sure the catalytic converter is trashed by now.
Except for some light maintenance I basically have zero time to fiddle with my trucks from late march till mid November running 2 business so that leaves me with 3 months during the winter to work on this.
Thanks for the input.