1985 22RE hard to start when warm/hot rough idle...tried all the "Fixes"
#21
actually i did...i readjusted mine yesterday and the truck idles much better..but it had no effect on the starting issue
i really have no idea what else could it be...i guess the only thing left is the fuel pump.
what were your EFI relay readings?
i am going to my buddies this weekend again and i am going to swap the COR and the EFI fuse with him....after that i guess it's time to pull the fuel pump?
I would think the fuel pump is working fine if it can eventually start up and run.
Have you ruled out fuel injector leakage?
Solenoid resistor 2-3 ohms?
#23
So you bypassed the blue VSV and ran a new piece of 3mm vaccume tubing from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator? A new piece of 3mm vaccume tubing is not easy to find especially in that lenght and usually needs to be ordered off of the internet.
So...did you really by-pass it because if you did...you would have fixed your problem.
So...did you really by-pass it because if you did...you would have fixed your problem.
yeah i bypassed it...why would i need a new hose? i reused the one off the VSV
#24
ya, i am going to do more testing this weekend. Not giving up yet
#26
ok..now i am really out of ideas!!!
switched COR and EFI fuse with my friend, also switched injector solenoid.
non of it helped.
today i dropped the tank and replaced the fuel pump.....problem is still there!!!!!!!!!!
switched COR and EFI fuse with my friend, also switched injector solenoid.
non of it helped.
today i dropped the tank and replaced the fuel pump.....problem is still there!!!!!!!!!!
#28
#29
Here's some random things that won't hurt to check...
PCV valve- take it out and make sure air only goes one way.
EGR system- a test is in the FSM that requires a vacuum gauge.
Charcoal canister- you should be able to blow from the tank input freely through the drain line (plug the output of canister to manifold when testing).
Keep a list of everything you have swapped and tried in the first post and eventually we'll find it.
PCV valve- take it out and make sure air only goes one way.
EGR system- a test is in the FSM that requires a vacuum gauge.
Charcoal canister- you should be able to blow from the tank input freely through the drain line (plug the output of canister to manifold when testing).
Keep a list of everything you have swapped and tried in the first post and eventually we'll find it.
#30
Here's some random things that won't hurt to check...
PCV valve- take it out and make sure air only goes one way.
EGR system- a test is in the FSM that requires a vacuum gauge.
Charcoal canister- you should be able to blow from the tank input freely through the drain line (plug the output of canister to manifold when testing).
Keep a list of everything you have swapped and tried in the first post and eventually we'll find it.
PCV valve- take it out and make sure air only goes one way.
EGR system- a test is in the FSM that requires a vacuum gauge.
Charcoal canister- you should be able to blow from the tank input freely through the drain line (plug the output of canister to manifold when testing).
Keep a list of everything you have swapped and tried in the first post and eventually we'll find it.
#34
#35
If you are running the fuel pressure regulator Hose to a vsv mounted to the back of the valve cover, disconnect it and plug it straight to an intake vacuum line and see what happens...
#36
#38
Registered User
Had the same problem in my 87 back when I had the 22re. Tried it all, nothing seemed to work. I did figure out, however, that when the engine was hot, I could turn the key with my foot off the clutch for a couple seconds, and then push the clutch in and turn the key again, and it would start with no problems. I was happy it didn't do the 10 crank hard start anymore and just ran it that way. Turns out, it was a pinhole HG leak. While it was hot, I think it was seeping a tiny bit of antifreeze into the cylinder. With the CSI not firing, it would take a couple cranks to get enough fuel in the cylinder to fire it over. Within a couple months, I was pushing coolant out of the overflow, and then one day I had steam out of the tailpipe. Replaced the cheap HG that came in the Sunwest rebuild with an OEM Toyota HG and all was well. If you have exhausted everything else, at least keep a look out for this.
#39
Had the same problem in my 87 back when I had the 22re. Tried it all, nothing seemed to work. I did figure out, however, that when the engine was hot, I could turn the key with my foot off the clutch for a couple seconds, and then push the clutch in and turn the key again, and it would start with no problems. I was happy it didn't do the 10 crank hard start anymore and just ran it that way. Turns out, it was a pinhole HG leak. While it was hot, I think it was seeping a tiny bit of antifreeze into the cylinder. With the CSI not firing, it would take a couple cranks to get enough fuel in the cylinder to fire it over. Within a couple months, I was pushing coolant out of the overflow, and then one day I had steam out of the tailpipe. Replaced the cheap HG that came in the Sunwest rebuild with an OEM Toyota HG and all was well. If you have exhausted everything else, at least keep a look out for this.
I replaced or swapped pretty much everything possible on this truck.
There were only 2 things left i didnt touch. Fuel damper and fuel pressure regulator.
Once i took the fuel pressure regulator off and did the simple "blow test"
i could blow right through it....i knew i found the culprit to my problems!
Put a new "used" regulator on there and the truck finally starts like it should!!!
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For others that find this thread...
I had this exact same problem described here on my '85 Xtra Cab 4x4 SR5 22RE. Started great cold, but would not start after warming up. It started better on flat surfaces and was harder on a slope. It would push start instantly. If I could park it on a hill when it would not start I could put it in 2nd gear and get a little rolling speed, pop the clutch, and it would start right up. Otherwise, I could crank on it until the battery went dead and it would not start. I did find that if I barely bumped the starter, didn't grind on it, it would sometimes start after a few times.
After reading this thread, and this is really the only one I could find on this, I decided to start with the fuel injection pressure regulator. I had fuel pressure and the cold start injector was spraying gas. I saw where someone fixed it with the regulator after replacing a ton of stuff, so I just decided to start there. That fixed my problem. It now starts without issue regardless of the slope I'm parked on. I had also been having an issue with it hesitating after starting like it was starving for fuel, but I never gave it much thought because I could give is some gas and it would run fine from that point on. It had been doing that for a long time. That is now gone as well. Added bonus!!
I ordered a generic replacement regulator from www.rockauto.com. The return tube seemed a little different. The original had a tube within a tube it looked like the inner diameter was smaller. I was worried it was the wrong one but I put it on and obviously it worked.
I had this exact same problem described here on my '85 Xtra Cab 4x4 SR5 22RE. Started great cold, but would not start after warming up. It started better on flat surfaces and was harder on a slope. It would push start instantly. If I could park it on a hill when it would not start I could put it in 2nd gear and get a little rolling speed, pop the clutch, and it would start right up. Otherwise, I could crank on it until the battery went dead and it would not start. I did find that if I barely bumped the starter, didn't grind on it, it would sometimes start after a few times.
After reading this thread, and this is really the only one I could find on this, I decided to start with the fuel injection pressure regulator. I had fuel pressure and the cold start injector was spraying gas. I saw where someone fixed it with the regulator after replacing a ton of stuff, so I just decided to start there. That fixed my problem. It now starts without issue regardless of the slope I'm parked on. I had also been having an issue with it hesitating after starting like it was starving for fuel, but I never gave it much thought because I could give is some gas and it would run fine from that point on. It had been doing that for a long time. That is now gone as well. Added bonus!!
I ordered a generic replacement regulator from www.rockauto.com. The return tube seemed a little different. The original had a tube within a tube it looked like the inner diameter was smaller. I was worried it was the wrong one but I put it on and obviously it worked.
Last edited by DanDanTMM; 03-18-2018 at 07:32 PM.