stock carb to weber question
 

Got my weber today, took it down and fitted it on my 81...its a manual choke, which I prefer over the electric...less parts to fail. Being that the stocker had a wiring harness, and the weber needs no power, will it be ok if I just cap the harness up? Does anything need to be connectd or grounded for the truck to run?

Congrats on getting the best upgrade for a toyota! You can just cap it. Did you rip all the emissions crap out yet?

Not yet...later today. I have to go get an assortment of port plugs and caps...there's the vac advance, weber has a port for that...but there's also that other port on the distributor, what do I plug that into? Its a centrifugal advance in the haynes manual...

Don't know. Mine only had the vac advance, no second port. If you do a search I'm sure someone has the answer in an older thread.

You can just cap that other port on the distributor. As for the wires for the electric choke, they can just be zip tied out of the way or something.
Have fun, and good luck getting the adapter to seal well.

[quote=Bingle;51879361]Congrats on getting the best upgrade for a toyota! quote]

:facepalm:

I can't believe how much stuff I was able to rip out when i rebuilt my weber. The guy who put it in originally didn't get rid of any of the emission parts. I bought a downey weber to toyota spacer from a buddy too. I've never had a manual choke before, but I really like it, especially because my girlfriend can't figure it out!

Yeah, I was a bit disappointed that the weber came with a two piece adapter plate...seems silly. After the full install and when I get it running and tuned, I'm going to spray some carb cleaner or something around those 2 adapter plates, and if I find any leaks, I'll just seal it up with some gasket maker...or because the gaskets that came with the conversion kit seem so thin, maybe I'll just make my own. Will those sheets of cork gasket material work?

You should see how much more emissions crap there is on my california model...yuck...

It's amazing how much unneccessary equipment comes out when you de-smog a 22R!! Webers and de-smogging really clean up the engine bay and make it easier to work in there. I'm glad that Maryland doesn't have emissions on 20+ year old vehicles.

I just got a Weber last month and love it! Right now I am using both vacuum advances on the distributor on my set up. I have one going to the port on the Weber and one going to a port on the manifold. I tried using just just the radiator side distributor port and just the engine side distributor port (obviously with the unused port plugged) connected to the Weber port and it ran fine. However, when I ran the second vacuum line to the intake manifold I was getting better advance on the high end. I would recommend trying it on your's to see if it helps. I know a lot of people say to just use one (which is fine) but I'm getting better response from both at the distributor.

I too switched to a manual choke for the same reason, electric complicates everything! As far as your electric plug, I just taped mine over with electrical tape to keep water out. Part of the electric is also for the fuel cut off solenoid (which manual chokes don't have) so if you don't get your air/fuel mixture correct, your engine is going have the tendancy to diesel down when you turn off the ignition. Carry a screw driver with you and Just keep turning that idle screw in a little until the dieseling is gone.

Let me know if you have any questions and I'll see if I can help you

oh, and I forgot to mention that I installed a new distributor, fuel pump and fuel regulator when I switched to the Weber. A lot of times the distributor doesn't advance properly which can cause you to eat up fuel and lose power. The fuel pressure regulator is a must for Webers if you don't have one! The stock fuel pump puts out about 8 PSI and Webers run best on 3.5 PSI. I used a Holley adjustable 1-4 PSI regulator with a Mr Gasket fuel pressure gauge and it works great!

Just got mine together and fired up for the first time tonight...seems very lopey under 1000 rpms...wonder if it has an aftermarket cam...when I did the headgasket last week, I noticed how clean and smooth the lobes looked...this truck has 444,423 miles on it and it seems that after that kind of mileage there should be some kind of grooves in it...not on this one. Idles comfortably around 900 rpms. Pulled it out in the alley and checked how things felt otherwise, seems ok...dumped the clutch and got a solid, even 2 wheel burnout...didn't expect that. I'll be jacking the ass end up tomorrow to see if its a locked diff or if the limited slip is just doing its job. Weber only needed a quarter turn on mixture screw...nice. now, on to the cosmetics...this truck will never be pretty, but she'll go places the pretty trucks are afraid to go!

Haha, I remember chirping the rear when I first drove with the Weber...it's a feel good moment of success! I keep mine around 900 rpms too, don't forget to double check your timing. My timing was slightly off and it settled down nice after I adjusted it. I also found that I was slowly turning in the mixture screw for a few days to get a nice mixture.

Weber conversion
 

I have an "81 California truck and I got rid of the factory carb and replaced it with a Weber 32/36 DGAV. Only electrical connection I have is for the choke. All others are unused.

I apologize but your wording confused me a bit... exactly which vacuum lines do you have hooked up where?

I have a Weber 38 and I LOVE IT.

Well, I didn't love it until I bought the Offenhauser single plane intake, which voids the 42 different adapter plates that Redline gives you. Now that there are no vacuum leaks and I have it properly jetted, I can't floor it without burning out. It's time to replace them dry-rotted tires, I guess.

I have the same set up as uglymudder, and the same problems. i will try the adjustable psi reg and gauge and let you know if it works.