Rust hole and crack on frame in front of the rear shackle
I was just wondering some ways to fix this I don't want to get rid of the truck I bought it for 700 bucks it's an 83 sr5 long box
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CAN YOU POST A PIC , IT MAY HELP DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM , but try to get it welded possibly .
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Yea I have a pic but I am on my phone right now when I get to my computer I will post a pic
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Like this?
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._5882663_n.jpg Cleaned up https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._7487123_n.jpg Fixed https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._1863959_n.jpg The final beast https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos...25572340_n.jpg :wabbit2: |
If it is just a small area like Wabbit posted and you have access to getting it done, that works great.
Really check the whole frame over and make sure it is only a small area. Normally it will be from the front of the back axle springs to the rear of the frame.Right where Wabbit showed. The front half of the frame is usually solid. If it is really bad and if you can pull a motor or a tranmission, you are able to do a whole frame swap. I had a friend to sell a great frame for $100 recently. Finding one can be the hardest part. Swapping frames is nothing to be afraid of. I can promise you that when you get the truck parts removed from the rotted frame, you will almost feel like a pro putting all of the parts onto your replacement frame. Really nothing to be worried about. I will probably doing a frame swap within a month as a truck I got recently is unrepairable. On my 88 Runner build on Post#88 I have the steps on doing a frame swap. I plan on adding alot of pictures to that post when I do it as it is just steps in what to do. Fierohink and Dutchbelly have done one and both were new at it and agreed it is nothing to it. My write up will help get you 99% thru it. Link..88# https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...9/index4.htmlk From 79-95 models they are all the same. 6 bolts hold the cab on and all of the wiring goes with the cab. Unplug the wiring under the passenger seat and the rear wiring is easily removed. Undo your brake lines by the passenger tire and hydraulic lines is done. This is after you have the motor and tranny pulled. If you have the ability lift the body off then remove the drive train, the steps would be a little different. I only need about 4 people to help me lift the cab off and 1 or 2 people to lift the bed off. If you are going to do a frame swap, start soaking them body bolts in PB Blastser the sooner the better. Those are the worse part as they can be tough to break loose, or a good impact wrench helps. |
Are the frames interchangeable like its an 83 long box will and 82 frame work or no?
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You will need a 79-83 frame that is a long bed if yours is a long bed. There is also a shortbed so make sure you get the right length. There is a 2 foot difference between a long bed and shortbed.
A long bed has an extra foot in front of the rear tire well and a foot longer behind the rear tire well. Cab forward is all the same. |
Hey guys sorry iam new and have a macbook and cant figure out how to post pictures it keeps say they are to big so any one with a mac can help would be great but i think iam gonna weld it and plate it
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Never been on a Mac so no help there. As far as the frame, do be afraid to strike it with a hammer with some really good whacks to make sure it is good and solid in all areas. Plate what all is needed. Wabbit showed the correct way to do it.
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Finally got the picture posted :)
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Cut the rusted area out....
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...2/RECO0001.jpg Weld in a piece to patch it up. http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...2/RECO0002.jpg I welded a piece of 2 inch angle iron on the bottom, inside of the frame, from the crossmember at the rear of the cab to the spring hanger. I made some relief cuts and formed it to the bottom of the frame.. I don't have a picture of that..It has held up good. Unless your frame is totally shot, it can be repaired. |
I see I must be not understanding this concept or the definition of just what a frame swap means.
To me a frame swap is just what it says a bare frame with all the parts removed. If the frame is so bad it can not be fixed then the fuel and brake lines will also need replaced then when the fuel pump bracket lines break. Which is a lot of work to me up in the heart of Yankee country. because most of the bolts either break or need to be cut out . Then one gets to the front suspension a good time to do a SAS but in the op case his is all ready there. Just think of swapping the IFS parts . Then it is almost impossible to get a good frame in this area pay shipping it sorta defeats the whole purpose of a low budget project. Much easier to pull the bed and build a new one from the cab back. One also needs to take into consideration the place you have to work in and the skills one has.:wabbit2: One persons easy is another persons night mare |
Originally Posted by Terrys87
(Post 51938888)
You will need a 79-83 frame that is a long bed if yours is a long bed. There is also a shortbed so make sure you get the right length. There is a 2 foot difference between a long bed and shortbed.
A long bed has an extra foot in front of the rear tire well and a foot longer behind the rear tire well. Cab forward is all the same. |
wyoming9..Guess alot depends on where you live and if you are able to get a good frame. The first time I did a frame swap was when I bought a Toyota and didnt know of their frame issuses. I had to do it out of desperation, but it really isnt hard at all if the bolts come out well.
dropzone...I might of worded it better. A friend of mine and me was curious about the differences of the longbed and shortbed of the 79-83 trucks, we did a comparison of the 2 trucks side by side and some measuring. The 2 extra feet length is added to the longbed by putting a foot in front of the rear wheel well and a foot behind the rear wheel well. If I can find a good short bed pic you could see the difference a little better. Tried making marks to show where the extra length is added but dont know how to add the markings. http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/...87/Bsdone2.jpg |
Originally Posted by Windigo69
(Post 51938928)
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
(Post 51938996)
dropzone...I might of worded it better. A friend of mine and me was curious about the differences of the longbed and shortbed of the 79-83 trucks, we did a comparison of the 2 trucks side by side and some measuring. The 2 extra feet length is added to the longbed by putting a foot in front of the rear wheel well and a foot behind the rear wheel well.
If I can find a good short bed pic you could see the difference a little better. Tried making marks to show where the extra length is added but dont know how to add the markings. http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/...87/Bsdone2.jpg 1979-83 short bed 101.77 * 1979-83 long bed 110.24 * Copy and paste, but I know there was never an 8' 1st Gen bed (2 extra feet you are talking about) 1st Gen truck bed dimensions:
Originally Posted by 4x4YOTA
(Post 51822572)
short bed measures 74.5"
long bed measures 88.5" both are 59" wide out side dimensions Edit Bed measurements Measured on 82 SB and LB Measurements are approximate and as follows: SB top rail 74" LB top rail 89" 15" difference SB front to wheel center 35" LB front to wheel center 43" 8" inch difference SB tail light to wheel center 38" LB tail light to wheel center 45" 7" inch difference |
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