Need help guys
 

Trying to get the old 83 22R back to a state of road ready. I have finished most of the suspension and axle set up but the old owner butchered the wiring harness in a bad way.

Issues
1.Wires are twisted to each other and others are unhooked.
2. The battery charge light and brake light randomly come on.
3. Battery is not taking a charge I suspect it's a issue with the voltage regulator wiring.
4. This 22R has a one wire O2 sensor that is not hooked to any thing and just hanging.

History behind this is some one tried to do a half way emissions delete and converted to the Weber. The harness is a mess and definitely needs TLC.

any advice or help is welcome.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...21bc20b354.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...30d7052779.jpg

Problem #2 and 3 are part of the same issue. Either the charging circuit isn't complete or your alternator's not charging the battery.

You need a repair manual to find which terminal on your ecu is for the O2 sensor and you can either trace it and replace the missing connector or rewire it.

Is the emissions system mostly intact?

The emissions system is still there for the most part. The vacuum hard lines are still there. I am strongly considering putting the stock carb and every thing else back on until I am ready to go propane. I am not a huge fan of the Weber truthfully. I know some people like them but on a mostly stock engine I really don't see much of a improvement. Just my 2 cents

I think the yellow and black wire in the picture are ran incorectly. I also am unsure of where the 02 sensor wire is supposed to plug in.

So that yellow wire with likely red spots, if it goes to that small black part bolted to the ignition, via that blue connector, disconnect it. That small black box is a RFI suppression capacitor and may be periodically shorting out. I've removed them from mine while doing a harness clean-up and it runs fine, just a bit of alternator whine over the radio. That looks like an aftermarket regulator and they are not sealed that well and could be giving you grief. Check the connector and open up the back of the regulator and check for corrosion. The factory regulator electronics are sealed up and there is an exposed resistor which sometimes gets corrosion. I don't know what to do with the O2 wiring, Canadian trucks never had that stuff nor any of the 'junk' on the stock carb that made them a problem...which is way people switched to webers. The factory carb is quisi based on webers and actually flows more then the 32/36, and the non-emission Canadian carb actually works pretty good. Don't know if you can get one in the US of A or not.

I unplugged the wires with no change. I agree the regulator doesn't look like a Toyota unit. I did notice only 4 wires going to the alternator. The three that share the same plug and of course the hot wire from the battery (see where I am pointing in the picture) the 5th wire is attached to the cylinder head for some reason but I think it is supposed to attach to one of the spots on the back of the alternator.

I did pull the alternator and regulator off and all the pins look like they are in good shape.

So I checked the wires going into the generator. The main wire that runs to the battery has 12.5 volts all the time. However the 3 wire plug has around 4 volts on all pins with key on and nothing with key off.

Is there supposed to be a 5th wire that hooks to the back of the alternator?

It has been sometime since I messed with a first gen truck. I am almost positive that you do not have the correct alternator. If I recall correctly, 84 and older trucks use a big round plug for the connector to the alternator. 84 and older trucks have an external mounted Voltage Regulator. That plug just does not look correct to me.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2dc95095e1.jpgHere Is the new alternator from auto zone. Notice the letters by the pins are do not match. I asked to verify that this is the 40 amp 5 wire version and it checked out in the system.
I don't know I picked up a 40 amp from autozone for $45 (very cheap IMOP) and it doesn't look any thing like the back of the one on it. The alternator has a smaller plug with a small adapter harness that attaches to the vehicle harness.

I did go back and check the trucks harness and it does only have 5 wires going to the regulator plug.

Well now with the new alternator I have 18 volts! Shut the truck down and ordered a new 5 wire voltage regulator that should be here today.

Terrys87: I think you are referring to the 65 amp early 80s celica alternators that came on the 22R cars. They had the round 3 wire plug I think you are referring to. From what I understand 83/84 pick ups had the small or large L shaped plugs.

After the new alternator and regulator I am getting 14 volts out of the system. However I still have a charge and brake light on????

I removed the voltage light relay. If I simply touched it the light would flicker. Voltage at the alternator is 14.5, voltage at the battery is 14.4.

Sounds like either the coil in the relay is burnt out or the contacts have welded closed. Check the coil with an ohmmeter if its open (no continuity) simply replace it if you can find on. Doubt the dealers have it anymore. Try the wreckers and just search thru anything they have in that age. I found a BJ60 (diesel Landcruiser wagon) with a broken frame at the wreckers and stripped it of useful parts. Otherwise you'll have to graft one of those Bosch style relays in, follow the wiring diagram in the FSM and use the NC (normally closed) contacts to the light. FYI...when the alternator produces power the relay switches and the light goes out. If the contacts are burnt closed (continuity thru them) you may have some big problems some where else. If I recall correctly the charge light relay wire is that yellow wire with either red or white dots on it. It comes off the field diodes in the alternator and goes to the regulator, charge light relay, emissions computer, choke heater and maybe the seat belt buzzer. I don't know why the brake warning light comes on, maybe a short in the combination meter or a back feed. Back feeds are usually caused by an open ground some where. In the 83's there are some diodes soldered to the back of the combo meters printed circuit foil, one of these may be shorted or have a bad solder joint. Do you have the FSM wiring diagram and an volt/ohmmeter? If not get them. Oh...check that there is power at the charge light relay coil when the truck is running and check there is no continuity from the coil to the contacts.

After looking at the FSM wiring diagram the brake warning light will come on as you noticed. There is a diode that will feed the light from the charge light relay. I suspect this was put in to test the brake light every time you turn on the truck.

I had almost the same problem, turned out to be the voltage regulator, I figured out if I hit it with a wrench it would jump back to life and bat. would sit at 14.something. I ended up replacing it. There's two different sets of alt/regulator for these trucks A-circuit and B-circuit. It has to do with how many pins in the connector and the amp put out by the system. 40 and 55.