ledzeppelin3270

Today I wanted to change diff, transfer, and transmission fluid, but when I crawled under, I could not get the drain plugs or the filler plugs off I've got some Rust Bomb soaking on them right now and I'll take some heat to them tomorrow, but I was just wondering if anybody has encountered a similar situation and has any tips. Also, if anyone knows where I can get replacement plugs, that would be nice. A brief visit to the O'Reilly website didn't turn up any, and I would really like to replace them. Thanks!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I think if you will use the search you'll find numerous answers to your questions.

:wabbit2:

cubuff4runner

Sound like you need to hit the gym. Did you use a cheater/breaker bar?

83

For a guy in Wisconsin, that could spell broken-off-heads, and a lot more headache than he's got right now. Rust.

You're doing the right thing. In fact, with a rusty, old truck, before you do any job, get in there a few days before and spray things with liquid wrench or something similar.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure on the earlier ones, but isn't the transfer case and transmission aluminum? Which would mean it doesn't rust.

v8sport4runner

Make sure to use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point. The 12 point will round the bolts of a lot easier...I learned the hard way. Marlin Crawler sells some nice replacement ones.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...tic-drain-plug

technojunkie

The aluminum won't rust, but the plugs are steel. Aluminum and steel like to seize together.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

I understand that they seize together, I just couldn't follow all the talk about rust. On my truck personally, I fought with the drain plug for about 5 seconds and then just grabbed my Impact and it came right out. I know everyone will say that it will round it off or break it, but I have only had that happen on exhaust nuts.

uglymudder

I've found that presoaking them for a couple days, then heat, is the magic trick with steel plugs in an aluminum housing. I like p blaster-we call it "jesus piss" bc it works miracles. Good luck.

SoCal4Running

Reguardless of the method of removal make sure you get the fill plugs removed before draining the fluid.

You do not want to drain the fluid and the find out the fill plug are stuck or have them break off.

Have a way to get the fluid back in before you get the fluid out.

moroza

This.

Heat will do wonders. Alu expands much more with heat than steel does, in this case opening up the gap between the plug threads and the diff/trans/whatever case threads.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

sometimes you need to weld a nut to them...
replacmennt plugs can be had from the deal or a vendor like trail-gear

83

Yes, rust was wrong, I admit.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

pb blaster is my best friend...appleton wisconsin,salt belt!

ledzeppelin3270

Got them out. Took several soakings of Rust Bomb, heat, and a breaker to get them off, and what came out was some of the nastiest gear lube I've ever seen. Only got about 1 quart out of each axle and it was more like grease than gear lube. Must have been original. Replaced it with some Valvoline gear lube and 25% Lucas oil stabilizer. It has made a very noticeable difference with the smoothness and noise. Maybe it'll even help with the MPG's

warmonger88

I've got the same problem right now. I've got it soaking in liquid wrench right now, but it also looks like someone might have nailed my front diff plug on a rock, then rounded it off.

Boon

Good old PB. apply every 12 hours for 3-4 days.

Welcome to club rust.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

I have an 83 Totoyota 4WD and I plan to take my transfer case out and as it is leaking. I am going to drain the fluid and then re-seal the housing and fill it back up. I had though about changing my transmission fluid as well but I called a local mechanic and said he would do it but did not reccomend it because all the little loose pieces of metal off the gears may go places they shouldn't go and could cause problems and just to leave it until the transmission fails or something. Any opinions on this? Also should I change the fluid in the axles as well? Thanks.

Bingle

^ ^
I've heard that story with auto trans and don't know if I buy it and I definately think it's a good idea with the manual trans. Draining gets the crap out, not draining leaves it in there. Check the fluids first and see how they look but I'd do the trans if you're doing the tcase. Axels should get a look and change, but you might as well repack the wheel bearings while you're at it. My oppinion.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Would draining the tranny it and refilling it be sufficient or does it need to be "flushed".