Couple 3 questions on my 81
 

Got a few questions that have popped up during my 81 4x4 refurb.

1. In de-smogging the engine bay with a 22r, does the TVSV get removed and plugged? This assuming I'm going to run the stock carb for a while, So I was planning to run the vacuum lines per the Canadian emissions control layout. Will be going to a Weber in the future. I also assume if plugged, it will still allow water to pass through to the heater. Correct me if I'm assuming wrong.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...0pics/3967.jpg

2. Does the number "20" stamped on the inside of the head, signify anything? I noticed it and started me wondering if my head is for a 20R. Any better or worse on a 22R engine block?
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...0pics/3964.jpg

3. In looking over the bellhousing, I took the clutch release fork out and saw that the clip that holds it to the ball, was broken. Are they any DIY fixes that can be done to keep the fork properly aligned?

Thanks for any input.

The is the first time I've ever heard of a "couple 3 questions" LOL

#1 - You can plug all vacuum lines except the one going from the distributor to the carb (sometimes two depending on your distributor type). If you really want to clean it up, you can get the block off plates from LCE:
http://www.lceperformance.com/Water-...-p/1016011.htm
http://www.lceperformance.com/Water-...-p/1016013.htm
http://www.lceperformance.com/Water-...-p/1016014.htm

#2 - Not sure what the "20" means, but you have a 22R head. 20R heads have round intake ports, see below: Top=20R Bottom=22R
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...s/20rvs22r.jpg
What is the delay for getting a Weber? You're spending all this time and money on a rebuild and missing the most important component - it's the best $280 you will spend on your truck.

#3 - I'm pretty sure that you can get the clips from the dealer or parts store. That's not one of those things you want to rig up.

Yeah, clips are super cheap and should be replaced. Why wouldn't you? It's not some crazy part that needs modifications, or hard to find part. It's all part of replacing the clutch (which hopefully you're doing while you've got things apart...though I don't know the history of what you've been doing).

My experience has been that those clips only hold the release bearing in place until it's snugly installed against the clutch, then they're pointless. They fall off if you even look at them wrong during installation, so I just can't imagine that they're anything structural. I really think they just keep things where they should be during installation, then they're useless. But I would just go ahead and used the correct clips from the dealership or parts store if they have them. I don't remember them being more than a couple bucks.

I don't think I've seen those block off Plates that were recommended. Could somebody explain there purpose a little more. The ones above in the previous post that are three links. Thanks.

^^They block off ports on engines that have had smog components removed

x2 with Dropzone. There are also water block off plates that eliminate the "useless" extra routing of water hoses in the engine compartment.

Being a newbie to the clean up of the engine bay, what do you recommend. Other than the normal radiator hose connections, I just need the heater hoses routing. Everything else could be blocked off. I assumed the above block off plates were for race application and not street use. But what do I know. LOL

Here's my suggestion... Drop the engine in and connect everything you want/need (ie Heater hoses, distributor vacuum advance, brake booster) then block off what you aren't going to use (ie EGR, TSVS, Air Injection, Manifold water sensor). This block off plates aren't aimed solely at race applications, there is so much stuff (mostly related to smog) that is not needed under the hood.

If you're feeling froggy, you can also eliminate a lot of wiring too. Any wiring related to smog equipment can go - just route it back through the harness and strip it out. All you need for these engines to run is you ignition wires, spark plug wires, distributor wires and starter wires. Obviously, you might want to retain your oil pressure/level and temperature sensors.

I read that one write up you sent me on desmogging the 22r

Mines a 20r not that it matters. Is there a thread that gives details on water block plates and will doing this effect a truck like mine that's not being raced?

not sure if this is the thread he sent you but has some good info:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...ly-22r-205845/

Search the web if you're looking for the academic approach of knowing everything before you start.

But I think if you just get your hands in there and get dirty, you find your solutions as you install the engine...

Yep thats the one. I will search more extensive. I just thought some guys here might know. Ive learned alot so far about these trucks. Thanks!!!

This is the clip that I was taking about here.

Click to enlarge
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...cs/th_3969.jpg

Oh, that clip. I'd say find another clutch fork. Junkyard, classifieds here or on Marlin Crawler. I think it'd be easier to just replace the whole thing. Make sure you get one for your transmission. There were different through the years.

Got my clutch fork repaired using some spring steel found in tool box (a spare spring clip for garden tools,LOL)

Before
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...0pics/3969.jpg
After
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...0pics/3995.jpg