83 Automatic 22r dies when Hot
 

First post here, I'm having some troubles with my 83 2wd Automatic truck that has a 22r in it. Truck runs great until its around the mid 70s or hotter outside or I go on a long drive and get stuck in some traffic. When its hot the truck won't idle and likes to stall randomly. It also surges likes its gonna die in the low rpms until i really push the pedal down and go a little faster than feels safe. Problem will get worse until the truck dies anytime i stop. It also surges in the low rpms. Sometimes I can keep it running by giving it more gas. If I turn the idle up to around maybe 1200 to 1500 I can make it home. On a cold day I can drive all over Oakland without any problems. I assume its not the idle cut solenoid since it only happens when its warm out.

These are things I've recently replaced
Auxilary Acceleration pump (truck wouldn't stay running at all before that), Ignition Coil as of today, New Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap, New fuel pump and fuel filter.


Any help is greatly appreciated! I've been digging through old posts but haven't had a breakthrough yet. Thanks in advance!

Is the motor completely stock? Being in CA I'm guessing all of your emissions equipment is in tact? What is your timing set at?

Fuel, Air, Spark...If pump and filter are fresh and the pick up in the tank isn't clogged, charcoal canister is venting from the tank properly then you can just about rule out fuel. Carburetor could need a rebuild.
Spark looks to be fresh. Are your grounds and battery terminals clean metal on metal?
s your choke closing and opening when it's supposed to? Catalyst in the converter possibly clogged? Could be allowing air through on cold days and on warmer days it could be closing off what little holes it has left to breath through.

Sounds like the problem is vapor locking. I would first check the fuel level in the float bowl at idle. Check all the fuel lines and filter for being clogged up, routing of lines that are too close to engines heat, rubber lines for cracks, things like these could cause problems.

As as an old timer remedy, add a couple of wooden clothes pins in various places on the fuel lines in the engine bay, to see if it helps. The pins act like heat sinks and pull the heat out, that causing bubbling in the lines.

Punjab: Timing is set to 5 degrees before, grounds are good. Any idea how to test that charcoal canister?

Lons81: I got some clothespins on there for now but will have to wait till I get out on the road to see if it helps. The rubber line from the pump to carb sits against the valve cover which seems questionable.

Would valves out of adjustment cause this kinda of thing where it stalls when its warm? I haven't gotten to those yet.

First verify what hot means. Overheating (240) or normal operating temp (180)? If overheating, nothing will make it run right until you fix the water/airflow problem. I doubt you are running dirt roads, so the radiator fins are not clogged w/ dirt. Core clogged w/ lime or rust? Fan operating correctly? Since you aren't puking fluid, stat is probably operating.
Not overheating? Try the EGR. Back in my day, those get clogged w/ carbon and cause symptoms like you describe. Plus what the other guys said.

Good luck!

suicide jockey: By hot I mean normal operating temp. The truck doesn't appear to be overheating unless my temp gauge is way off. Its never gone past half way. radiator seems fine, not dirty and I can't see any rust in there. I have some notes from the previous owner that say the EGR was cleaned by a mechanic about six months ago. Maybe its dirty again?

Happened again today, fuel is about halfway in the sight glass of my carb so I'm sure I have fuel.

Here a lil update. I ended up getting a replacement from national carburetors. I'm pretty sure the previous owners mechanic got the carb all kinds of out of tune trying to fix a previous problem where it would die anytime you stopped. I figured out that the previous problem was the auxiliary acceleration pump. I'm surprised the mechanic couldn't figure that out and i'm pretty sure they tuned the fast idle/regular idle way out of whack trying to solve that problem. Once my truck made it down to the regular idle speed from the fast idle it died. I'm pretty sure the regular idle itself was way to low. Spending $145 sounded easier than re building and tuning the old Aisin. So far this new carb is working out great. I'd recommenced it.

Here's a link to the same one for $145:

Glad you got it figured out and thanks for the link!

Trouble again!