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-   -   83 22R alternator removal route out of engine bay (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114/83-22r-alternator-removal-route-out-engine-bay-305295/)

tee34 08-07-2018 01:27 AM

83 22R alternator removal route out of engine bay
 
83 22R SR5 longbed only 147 k,
charge and brake light came on, went in, got Alternator all freed up, been all over the internet, it cant tell me weather it goes OUT OF THE BOTTOM OR TOP, do we really need to remove the rad hose up top or the bottom? im down on Toyota's engineering decisions ATM, or shocked

shocked(literally as i didnt remove the neg battery cable and made a spark but hope ill get away with that before i pulled the batt cable.}

medicmoose 08-07-2018 02:18 AM

When I did mine I removed the lower rad hose and went in/out from the bottom. It's a pain that you have to drain the coolant but it was a breeze once that hose was out of the way.

wyoming9 08-07-2018 08:48 AM

After trying every method it is by far easier to remove the lower radiator hose.

It is not like your changing alternators every weekend in most cases .

tee34 08-07-2018 12:17 PM

Thanks for getting back so soon,

Do i even have to remove both ends of the lower rad hose? but i may have to as the proper "draining technique" for this alt job (unbelievable!), is to drain from the bottom into a pan or cover the alt with a plastic bag and let it drain out at the up top connection point.
Issue is the fan belt and shroud are down there in the way right where it would exit below even with the hose disconnected at both points,
Up top i could remove the upper connect point to the rad hose and it seems a little more open.

draining and removal point advice would be welcomed thank you.

wyoming9 08-07-2018 01:30 PM

Myself I just pull the hose off the Radiator that gives you enough room to get the Alternator in and out

Because I worked on so many changing alternators I have a clean bucket pull the hose stick it in the bucket .

Then if I don`t know the age of the coolant it gets topped off with fresh

Don`t forget to burp the system to get all the air out when your finished

tee34 08-07-2018 02:56 PM

yep, all good advice, of course i come from the school of : do least amount to get the job done but i may have to disconnect at both points.issue is i have a fan and separate alternator belt.

Discombobulated 08-07-2018 04:09 PM

Came from the same school, I stared for an hour thinking there has to be an easier way....nope take the whole hose off, makes it way easier.

tee34 08-07-2018 04:19 PM

OK, do you take the rad cap off? well ill just drain into the pan from the bottom hose connection will be easier for less splash then from the top, but wow im shocked at Toyotas Engineering decision, what if that hose developed a leak?T

tee34 08-08-2018 02:15 AM

Verdict: on the the RWD 83 SR5 22R, removing the lower rad hose HAS NOT ALLOWED THE ALTERNATOR TO COME OUT, hose was pulled and on top of it all it was messy, spilled rad fluid, the top end of hose was removed first then hose pulled completely, the fan and fan pulley ARE STILL IN THE WAY, I TRIED GOING OUT UPWARD not quite enough room.
This is just the ,stupid design .:fire2:
WHAT to do now?! Pull the fan but then what about the fan pulley but i just wish i could find the right info, Chilton Online is a joke and that i am not through with this already and its costing me work! Here she blows below :
.http://i64.tinypic.com/2lyozt.jpghttp://i65.tinypic.com/34yxpcj.jpg

medicmoose 08-08-2018 04:53 AM

IIRC you have to remove the hard coolant line that the lower rad hose attaches to so that it is out of the way. Mine is a 4x4 and I haven't played around on the same generation 4x2's but I would have thought it would be even easier on a 4x2. I wouldn't think that you have to remove any of the pulley's. I do remember on mine that I pulled the whole alternator bracket off but I can't remember if that was necessary in order to get the alt out...I was changing to a different style of alt which uses a different bracket which is why my original bracket had to come out. It's only a few more bolts so, take a breath and give it a try.

tee34 08-08-2018 05:26 AM

Thank you for replying medic, needed help asap. Good, It would be great if i could...

UPDATE: I got out there, looked below it's all one piece attached to the radiator i do not see any bolts as i remembered, it seems that spout is just apart of the radiator i can take pics to show you, there is what seems a heater core hose going off it too.not sure that bracket the bottom pin goes through even comes off, there are 4 bolts on it i do know.this much
http://i64.tinypic.com/28ujq0i.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/15pixas.jpg

medicmoose 08-08-2018 06:35 AM

Is there a hard (metal) coolant line the the hose attaches to at the opposite end of the hose from the rad side (in the picture it's the one just below the alt)? If so, take it off and see what you can do then.https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...ff677bdb92.jpg

tee34 08-08-2018 03:21 PM

so not at end of the yellow arrow but below there in the pic, does not seem to be my layout but ok well ill take a look at least, thank you UPDATE, alternator is in the lower right cornerhttp://i67.tinypic.com/16bg8hy.jpghttp://i64.tinypic.com/1zlw6e1.jpg

tee34 08-08-2018 10:52 PM

so i dont see the pipe you speak of, the engine mounts get in the way, so looks like pulling the fan and power steering belt is only thing left,

wyoming9 08-08-2018 11:20 PM

Sorry You never mentioned it was 2wd to later in the thread

I have never even seen one of those but in passing

The 4x4`s are all I ever worked on and never really had any problems .

The 2wd must be that different .

tee34 08-09-2018 01:46 AM

yes im finding this 2wd is making it worlds harder and one of the silliest jobs ive ever encountered, i just talked to guy on the yota facebook group and he said remove that engine mount the bottom pin from the Alt goes through and "jack up the engine", i was shocked by his answer, now removing the fan and pwr steering belt seems 100% easier than that with potential for permanent damage if i foul up the jacking procedure. this just gets more and more strange by the day and shocking

jakey poo 08-09-2018 09:09 AM

I've found that if you stand up the alternator, pulley side up that it'll fit through a smaller space. Other than that IDK what to tell you, except I'm sure its not designed to have to unbolt the engine mount.

old87yota 08-09-2018 09:28 AM

If someone has a 1983 Factory Repair Manual, we could look at the official procedure.

It looks like your 22R has different coolant plumbing than the later 22Rs.

:safari:

Co_94_PU 08-09-2018 10:37 AM


Originally Posted by jakey poo (Post 52405266)
I've found that if you stand up the alternator, pulley side up that it'll fit through a smaller space. Other than that IDK what to tell you, except I'm sure its not designed to have to unbolt the engine mount.

The destructions in the FSM, from what I remember, are excessive. It should squeeze out the whole via the top route. This is of course based on my experience with the next generation, it's really not that different.

with it in this orientation it should lift straight up thru the gap center photo.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3dbc6a59dd.jpg

tee34 08-09-2018 01:56 PM

ok just few hours ago i think i have a way out of this
,the top pulley looking left as you stare at the windscreen,there is a guide bolt to loosen that and that should get that steering pump belt out the way,

UPDATE: Got out there, first had loosen the side threaded bolt then the pulley bolt, needed over 18mm so i used 3/4 or something, finally it moved, pushed the belt up finally,Got down below, removed lower point of lower Rad hose only, some drip but was already low, folded it up top, wiggled and put it pulley side down and seeked space between the fan blades, a tug here and there.finally...
e http://i68.tinypic.com/2s6leus.jpg

http://i68.tinypic.com/nb29d.jpghttp://i63.tinypic.com/2dhbbdf.jpg
.thank you to all who replied :guitar:


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