'81 22r No Spark
#1
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'81 22r No Spark
'81 22r, propane. Put it in the garage Saturday, today it cranks but doesn't start. I'm not getting any spark at the distributor. Pulled the wire from the igniter, held it 1/2" from the distributor and cranked, no spark.
I swapped igniters with one I thought was good, still no spark.
I thought I might have a bad connection from the ignition switch, pulled the plastic and looked. I didn't find anything obvious. Is there a way to test the ignition switch? Does it go partially bad, like it'll crank and acc works but not power the igniter?
I don't think I'm getting power at the igniter or both igniters are bad. Is there any way to check the igniter? Any other ideas on what to check?
I swapped igniters with one I thought was good, still no spark.
I thought I might have a bad connection from the ignition switch, pulled the plastic and looked. I didn't find anything obvious. Is there a way to test the ignition switch? Does it go partially bad, like it'll crank and acc works but not power the igniter?
I don't think I'm getting power at the igniter or both igniters are bad. Is there any way to check the igniter? Any other ideas on what to check?
#2
'81 22r, propane. Put it in the garage Saturday, today it cranks but doesn't start. I'm not getting any spark at the distributor. Pulled the wire from the igniter, held it 1/2" from the distributor and cranked, no spark.
I swapped igniters with one I thought was good, still no spark.
I thought I might have a bad connection from the ignition switch, pulled the plastic and looked. I didn't find anything obvious. Is there a way to test the ignition switch? Does it go partially bad, like it'll crank and acc works but not power the igniter?
I don't think I'm getting power at the igniter or both igniters are bad. Is there any way to check the igniter? Any other ideas on what to check?
I swapped igniters with one I thought was good, still no spark.
I thought I might have a bad connection from the ignition switch, pulled the plastic and looked. I didn't find anything obvious. Is there a way to test the ignition switch? Does it go partially bad, like it'll crank and acc works but not power the igniter?
I don't think I'm getting power at the igniter or both igniters are bad. Is there any way to check the igniter? Any other ideas on what to check?
#3
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If you have a VOM to check continuity, you can test the ignition switch between the posts on back of cylinder. According to my '81 wiring diagram, the hot wire = Black/red, Start = Black/white, Ignition = Black/yellow, and Accessory = Blue/red. Download a copy of the FSM here;https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...wnload-261385/
This from the FSM
This from the FSM
Last edited by Lons81; 09-02-2017 at 03:36 PM.
#4
Had the same problem with my '81, no spark. It was the igniter. New igniters are no longer available, so you have to find a good used one if you can. My mechanic used a new GM igniter (77-82) and it works fine.
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#8
Thanks for the response! tested to ignition switch, it checked out good. tested the coil, it was within spec as well. distributor tested good, the ignitor is a new used one pulled from a running truck. double checked all grounds and fuses tonight, they are good too!! Still no spark! Iv never been this stumped! any ideas or recommended plans of action would be much appreciated!
#9
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Somethings to look at:
Do a continuity check between the Black/Yellow wire on the Ignition Switch to Engine fuse, then from Engine fuse to the Ignitor. There may be an open.
Check grounding at the Ignitor and clean if necessary
Run a jumper from the engine fuse in the fuse box to the Ignition side of the ignition switch, crank and see if you have spark.
Check gap of the electronic module in distributor, adjust if necessary. Replace rotor if looks pitted or burnt.
Not many more troubleshooting steps that you haven't already done. Maybe someone will chime wit recommendations
Do a continuity check between the Black/Yellow wire on the Ignition Switch to Engine fuse, then from Engine fuse to the Ignitor. There may be an open.
Check grounding at the Ignitor and clean if necessary
Run a jumper from the engine fuse in the fuse box to the Ignition side of the ignition switch, crank and see if you have spark.
Check gap of the electronic module in distributor, adjust if necessary. Replace rotor if looks pitted or burnt.
Not many more troubleshooting steps that you haven't already done. Maybe someone will chime wit recommendations
#11
Just did the tests, with key in on position, continuity between engine fuse and black/yellow ignition wire was good. engine fuse to ignitor ground is 12.17v. Engine fuse to the slotted plug in for the ignitor, one side is 11.8v and other slot is 13k ohms. rotor is brand new and air gap is .009 and clean. I attacked everything with electrical contact cleaner and re-cleaned the ground for the ignitor. checked resistance on distrib and it was sitting at 159, but when I tapped it, it would drop to 60 sometimes, I took it out and shook it and could hear something rattling! possible broken pickup coil!?!?! also does anyone know if the 13k ohm off the ignitor plug in is good? I cant find anything in my manuals about it. Thanks! I think I am going to pick up a new distributor
#12
New Distributor fixed the no spark issue!! But it still no start, I have been playing with the timing and got it to where it almost goes but just keeps sputtering! also, when its turning over and I give it some gas, it seems further from starting than when I leave the throttle alone. not sure if anyone is still watching this thread but just thought I would keep my issue updated on the chance that someone else is having a similar problem! Thanks!