22R dies when throttle applied
#41
just humor me, if u can, try remove the idle (slow) jet and try to get it to idle by using the idle mix screw as the jet. so bring it in to about 1.5 turns from seat and go from there. If that improves things, then yes the idle jet is probabyl to small, or may even be blocked or the main jet (which is in line before the slow jet) could be blocked.
Dont suppose the carb has a fuel cut solenoied does it (little solenoid wiht wires coming out of it on the carb)
Dont suppose the carb has a fuel cut solenoied does it (little solenoid wiht wires coming out of it on the carb)
#42
Registered User
#43
Registered User
Thread Starter
ok so it sounds liek u had a stuffed carb, rebuilt it, and now it wont idle below 1000 is that right?
If so, what makes u think its a lean idle?
You may be rihgt, im jsut trying to ge ta full picture here.
If i had it there in front of me i promise u i coudl sort it, its incredibly difficutl to work with carbs over the internet haha.
I realy want to get it sorted for you.
The timing does affect rpm but with a stock motor with stock compression ratio, std carb, it realld shouldnt present enough of an issue to cause a high idle (or an idle that will onyl run if set to 1000 rpm).
id forget the dizzy, and concentrate on the carby.
It was wokring fine before right the timing certianly didnt just jump. The carb needs your attention.
What happens if you try to wind the warm idle screw down to make it idle at aout 850 rpm? does it just die?
If so, what makes u think its a lean idle?
You may be rihgt, im jsut trying to ge ta full picture here.
If i had it there in front of me i promise u i coudl sort it, its incredibly difficutl to work with carbs over the internet haha.
I realy want to get it sorted for you.
The timing does affect rpm but with a stock motor with stock compression ratio, std carb, it realld shouldnt present enough of an issue to cause a high idle (or an idle that will onyl run if set to 1000 rpm).
id forget the dizzy, and concentrate on the carby.
It was wokring fine before right the timing certianly didnt just jump. The carb needs your attention.
What happens if you try to wind the warm idle screw down to make it idle at aout 850 rpm? does it just die?
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
I pulled the valve cover off this morning to have a better look at what is going on. Gears appear to be meshed. Something is binding it up.
Noticed that I've got slack on the driver's side timing chain, 1/4" or so of play. Should that be tighter? Chain stretched? It's got the plastic chain guides, though they appear to be intact from what I can see from the topside.
Chain slack on driver's side
Last edited by cascades; 08-18-2018 at 12:00 PM.
#46
Registered User
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
Agreed, was surprised to see the arm riding that way. The wear marks show where it had been. It is still making contact and functioning. Yes, no problem turning the motor by hand. Cam and valves look fine.
I was able to get the distributor unstuck and reinstalled. There was a washer between the distributor and the block acting as a thin spacer. I neglected to put that back in during reassembly and I think caused the gears to be slightly misaligned and bind up. When I put the washer in, everything was fine. Moving it a tooth either direction put it way off, so installed per FSM directions. I set the air gap to 0.3mm (it was less than 0.2mm) Fired it up. Set the timing to 0*. Readjusted carb per weber instructions. Still sitting at around 1000 idle rpm. Took it out for a 20 mile test drive and all seems ok. No weird noises, no hesitation, no stalling.
Any thoughts on that fuel pump lever?
I was able to get the distributor unstuck and reinstalled. There was a washer between the distributor and the block acting as a thin spacer. I neglected to put that back in during reassembly and I think caused the gears to be slightly misaligned and bind up. When I put the washer in, everything was fine. Moving it a tooth either direction put it way off, so installed per FSM directions. I set the air gap to 0.3mm (it was less than 0.2mm) Fired it up. Set the timing to 0*. Readjusted carb per weber instructions. Still sitting at around 1000 idle rpm. Took it out for a 20 mile test drive and all seems ok. No weird noises, no hesitation, no stalling.
Any thoughts on that fuel pump lever?
Last edited by cascades; 08-18-2018 at 09:46 PM.
#49
Registered User
Re the pump arm, if you can't see if it is bent then you'll need to take it off to see what the problem is. If it continues to ride on the edge like that it will grind on the cam lobe.
What happens when you back off on the idle screw?
What happens when you back off on the idle screw?
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Backing out the idle screw causes it to idle rough, stumble and die.
Thinking about getting a digital tachometer for testing purposes. Double check my gauge. Give me an excuse to have one in the shop. You guys used one? Have any recommendations?
Thinking about getting a digital tachometer for testing purposes. Double check my gauge. Give me an excuse to have one in the shop. You guys used one? Have any recommendations?
#51
Registered User
You might want to search here for "22R timing" IIRC there are a number of posts re timing at 5 degrees being better.
I use an ancient Craftsman tach/dwell unit to check mine.
I use an ancient Craftsman tach/dwell unit to check mine.
#52
ok so if it wont idle less than 1000 rpm, not discounting the likelyhodd that timing is aecting it, the absolute most likely and first suspicion is that the idle jet is not supply enough fuel.
With it idling as low as you can get it to idle smothly, can you get the engine hot, and get it to that idle, and then look down the primary throat and verify that it is not running fuel from teh main jet in the middle of the little venturi holes?
If you can see fuel spraying out into that primary venturi at your lowest idle, then id suspect it simply cant idle on the lower slow idle jet.
With it idling as low as you can get it to idle smothly, can you get the engine hot, and get it to that idle, and then look down the primary throat and verify that it is not running fuel from teh main jet in the middle of the little venturi holes?
If you can see fuel spraying out into that primary venturi at your lowest idle, then id suspect it simply cant idle on the lower slow idle jet.
#53
its more common than not, that someone buys a car from previous owner, and the previouos owenr has just wound up the idle to hide the fact that the carby isnt supplying any fuel or enough fuel to the slow jet.
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, I got a digital hand held tach for testing. Turns out my dash gauge is not all that accurate. I'm sitting at about 800 rpm on a warm engine now. I was much lower than that so turning out the screw caused it to die.
I ended up replacing the fuel pump. I pulled the old one and the arm was bent and the cam was wearing a groove in it. Cheap enough to replace and is now riding on the cam where it should. Not sure what caused that, but will keep an eye on the new one.
Thanks all for the tips and suggestions.
I ended up replacing the fuel pump. I pulled the old one and the arm was bent and the cam was wearing a groove in it. Cheap enough to replace and is now riding on the cam where it should. Not sure what caused that, but will keep an eye on the new one.
Thanks all for the tips and suggestions.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sschaefer3
Motorcycles
8
07-07-2005 05:31 AM
arielb1
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
9
12-04-2004 07:43 PM
PirateFins
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
5
01-29-2003 08:54 AM