1stgen18

Hey guys and gals. I am new to the forum and have seen alot of cool post. Well I have a 1981 Toyota Pick Up with 22r. I am pretty sure its a California Edition. It has 340,000 miles on it. Well I have been having this issue with it for a couple of wks now. So I can drive it normally for about 15 miles on the highway and then it slowly acts like it missfiring I guess. The truck well buck back and forth feeling like its misfiring. So I thought that it was a misfiring issue found one of the plug wires were loss. So that didnt solve the issue I went ahead and did a tune up all toyota parts replaced plugs, cap, rotor, plug wires, ignitor coil and ignitor during that. Still acting the same after that I figuire might be fuel issue (the truck sat alot before) so I drained the tank and flushed out all the fuel lines replaced the fuel pump and filter and had the carb rebuilt during that time. Now I am lost cause I figuire that what was to cause the issue and my mechanic says he dont know what issue it could be. i have a zillion vacum lines and he says that might be it. but I honestly dont think so. So I am out of idea's as what the issue might be. Can anyone please help me with this issue? Could a weber 32/36 help the situation cause I really hate seeing all the vacum lines and would like to get rid of all the smog for the california carb (I would like to use the factory carb) and would a electric fuel pump help this situation. Sorry for the long post but i have search on here for a while before I have decided to post, and thanks in advance

georgiayota

I don't know what the problem is, but mine too is doing this

rowdy235

sounds like it may be running rich, not misfiring.

Is it cold outside? Could be carb icing, shut it off and let it set for a couple minutes, if it then drives normally, carb icing is the culprit.

Could be the choke sticking

Just some thoughts

INFINITY

dist. advance might be bad (the internal diafram, on side note it is almost the same amount to get the dist as the diafram)
what are your temps when it heats up?
sure it is not the clutch?

1stgen18

So its still acting the same but now it take less time for it too act that way. The distribuitor advace vacum thing has been replaced no more than 4k miles ago and its a automatic (I know thats wierd). So it happened again and I looked at the fuel window on the carb when it happens and its shows basically no fuel going to carb, going to try and replace the mech. fuel pump and see if it improves but there are three lines that go to it one is the in another is the out what is the other one for? The problem doesnt matter when its hot or cold weather outside. I am located in northern califonia so the temp difference is that big thanks in advance everyone

Sked

The 3rd line on the mech pump is a return to the gas tank for excess fuel. Since you said you replaced the fuel filter, how bout new fuel lines? The old stock metal lines that run under the cab can get small cracks and the pump wont be able to suck up enough fuel, kinda the same feeling when your fuel filter is clogging. Just some new 3/8 rubber fuel hose works good. And yes get a new mech pump, Ruptured fuel diaphragm could be your problem, wont hold fuel and just lets it run back into the tank.

If your sure about you not having to pass emissions there is a few posts on here that can help. Pretty much get rip everything out and make sure to plug up any ports on the intake manifold and carb.

Sked

Just a thought but is this bucking and such happening when your just trying to maintain a speed, or even when accellerating hard? If you just trying to maintain a speed and it does it could be very bad bushings on the engine mounts and Tcase. The engine keeps going from loaded to unloaded and it kinda feels like what your saying.

cutboggers

coil or spark??? had bad something in that ignitor and it did this same thing. let set and it would be cherry for a lil while. weird.

1stgen18

trying to maintain a speed lets say 70 mph and the power slowly decress and loss of speed and get worst all the way down to 25 mph now to the point where its basically feels like it choking itself to death, I have already done a major tune up with new plugs, cap, rotor, coil, wires, ignator (used), i well try to switch out all rubber fuel lines and fuel pump when I have a chance hopefully later in the wk thanks for the diagram I hate seeing all the vacum hose and there is something that works off the cat for the eshaust that goes out so most of the trucks fail. Well keep you posted

1stgen18

so finally isntalled the fuel pump it dont seem to doing the issue anymore but I am not driving it as fast now going about 65 at max and still havent swap the fuel lines out (full tank of gas in it going to wait till it gets lower on the lever and replace all the rubber line fittings whats weird i guess is that the fuel lines that I got are 1/4 inch and not 3/8 anyways just keep on trying. Thanks guys

mrbrink

mine was doing this when I had (still have) gas tank gunk build up. it would suck something into the primary jet and then the engine wouldnt run between idle and when I got into the secondarys. when it happened less severely it would run fine when cold, and i could get it to speed, but it would buck like crazy. I took the top off my carb and blew out the jets and the problem was solved, till more crap got in my fuel lines. might be something to look at anyway.

1stgen18

thanks mr brink and all you guys for your help sorry havent post in a while about how it went but I finally swap out all the rubber lines from tank to the engine bay. It was going ok but when the engine is now idling the float bowl is dead in the middle of it but when i rev the motor i noticed that the float bowl goes down and pretty quick. So I was wondering if there is anyways to have the carb feed more gas to the jets. I really think that its causing the issue that I am having because it seems that I run out of fuel espically on the highway (going to the float bowl) Thanks in advance guys

kj1074

sounds like your carb is #$%^&@$. buy a 32/36, new filter, regulator; set timing, check timing chain length (i had one on my 22r that was stretched almost and inch!) check ALL vacuum, mess with the idle and mix per the weber guys knowledge, check valve lash, flush clutch fluid, swap slave cylinder ($12) if old and flush with new fluid; see if shell hit 100mph.

82greenbeast

I went through the same thing, put a new egr, carb, intake manifold vaccum hoses, check the timing, and set the mixture, and no doubt it ran alot better btu still did it every now and then, I'm saying one of the main diaphrams, even with a new carb i still needed to relace it

1stgen18

so I shot fuel pump out again I think and replaced it again with a new fuel filter and took it out again. So I havent bout a carb yet and still using the mech fuel pump. So I was reading in on vapor lock. Was wondering if anyone can chim on that. The carb is getting not getting enough fuel is what I have figuired out.
So can anyone chim in on this things PLEASE

A. Vapor lock : Gas tank dont make noise when I open up the gas cap. What can cause it and what I can do to prevent it
B. If I get a electric fuel pump what is needed to get it running correct
with factory carb and weber
C. Weber carb 32/36 where would I be able to find it at a decent price
(Ebay?) Is it better to run the weber on a elec or mech fuel pump

Thanks for all the advice you guys have been giving to me I just want to get this truck running right feel free to pm me, post back or find me on aim or yim at civieboy99 once again thanks

82greenbeast

if you're still having trouble, check little things you would'nt expect, is your alt. holding a good chrage (enough to get a good spark), no kink's in the fuel lines? check the fuel pump, take the carb off, take a look at all the valves and diaphrams, it would probably be a good idea to rebuild it. Could always be a vacuum problem too- so check that out. Could be someting as simple as an engine ground, ( happened on my buddy's zuk) anyways man let me know how it goes, my truck did the same thing at high speeds, my problem was that the alternaotr was going, turning on and off periodicly, which left my battery and a super low charge, creating a horrible spark

Gov't Mule

My '82 is doing this crap too. I'm planning to drop the gas tank tonight and pull the pickup/sending unit out and check for clogging. I have no gas getting past the new electric fuel pump that I just installed (which is located about 2 feet from the gas tank). So I'm thinkin that I'm gonna find a clogged fuel line somewhere between the pickup tube in the tank and the elctric fuel pump. My yota has 278,000 miles on it and I've never dropped the tank to clean it out. I am the orig owner so I guess it's about time huh?

brooklee1000

Everyone is suggesting fuel as the problem here. I would try looking at something else because you seem to have covered all fuel options by this point. A bad ground wire flexing on and off connection from the battery or on the block will give you the bucking problem you described. Also, a loose power wire may also be the culprit, either at your coil for spark, or the positive terminal at the battery. Remember that 90% of problems are usually caused by a bad ground or battery connection and they are easy and cheap to check and rule out.
If your float bowl is visibly loosing fuel when you rev at idle, then the float may not be set correctly to fill it. I would take the top off the card and check it. Old floats can break down and fill with fluid and not allow as much fuel into the bowl as they should.
When someone removed the fuel pump, the lines may have been reversed, so the return line to the tank may be whats feeding the carb, and visa versa. Check to ensure that the lines are connected properly! You may not have reversed them, but the PO may have and that's why he got rid of it.

blueyoda

my old mazda did the same thing. turned out to be a build up of jelly like substance in the tank from sitting too long. I had to replace al the lines and I switched to an electric in-line pump. Problem solved. Oh yah it was a carb motor.

Twisted Fork

I have owned several Toyota vehicles over the years; if they sit for a few months without starting, this same crap will happen to all of them. The gas they sell these days is garbage. It is worthless after two months. Sediment slime will form in the primary chambers of the carb. The only chemical treatment that will even come close to fixing this is Gunk octane booster. One bottle to 6 gallons of gas. It may take two treatments or more to fix the blockage. The sediment will move around in the chambers as the carb works one moment and not the next. Otherwise this problem is most commonly due to a plugged filter or leaking vacuum hose or associated device. Check your filter; if it is clean, remove your gas cap and run the vehicle to see if the problem stops. Apply air pressure to the fuel line and back flush it into the tank; hear bubbles? it's OK. It's almost always something simple.