1980 4x4 20r to 22r Engine Swap
11-29-2017, 01:20 PM
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1980 4x4 20r to 22r Engine Swap Questions
Update 03/15/2019
I decided to have the engine rebuilt to keep it as original as possible. Initially I took the engine apart w/o removing the carb and head. While doing that I realized it was going to need to be machined and I reassembled it.
Towed it to a shop and asked them to have the head machined, cylinders rehoned, clutch replaced, etc. Obviously there were other parts that were worn out and replaced as well. Totally fine and expected.
Not expected though was for the head to be stolen from the machine shop. They finally found a good head and everything worked out, but it was in the shop for 5+ weeks.
Hindsight is what it is, but man does it suck sometimes.
________________________________
I've got a blown head gasket on my current 20r engine. It's the original with 176,000 miles on it so I was thinking of having a full rebuild done on it but after getting some feedback from multiple people I'm going to just buy a remanufactured engine from Napa and put that in. After coming to that decision I started looking into engine swaps and I think I'm going to buy a 22r. There's a lot of confusing info out there and lots of answers that go over my head so I want to ask some questions and try to clarify it for myself. I've read through dozens of threads on multiple forums.
For a 1980 20r, I need to buy a pre-1985 22r. Is this correct? It's a 4 speed manual if that matters.
Is a 20r to 22r swap literally just a swap you can do without any modifications? I buy the remanufactured engine and I can just attach all the parts from my current setup?
I've got exhaust headers on my 20r, will that fit on a 22r? If not, is it a matter of just drilling some holes in the exhaust?
I'm putting in a new water pump, Centerforce clutch, and torque camshaft. Are there other parts you would recommend replacing at the same time?
For replacing the valve cover gasket after putting in the camshaft can I use a gasket I bought for my 20r?
Okay, that's about it for the 20r to 22r questions, at least until I'm confused again. Here's my last question. With a 4 speed manual transmission should I consider the 22re over the 22r? I know that requires more work.
Sorry if this is old news to everyone, but I'm new to the Toyota 4x4 world and don't want to pay for anything until I'm sure. I've already got $2000 into drivetrain, brakes, standard tune-up, tires, etc.
Thanks
I decided to have the engine rebuilt to keep it as original as possible. Initially I took the engine apart w/o removing the carb and head. While doing that I realized it was going to need to be machined and I reassembled it.
Towed it to a shop and asked them to have the head machined, cylinders rehoned, clutch replaced, etc. Obviously there were other parts that were worn out and replaced as well. Totally fine and expected.
Not expected though was for the head to be stolen from the machine shop. They finally found a good head and everything worked out, but it was in the shop for 5+ weeks.
Hindsight is what it is, but man does it suck sometimes.
________________________________
I've got a blown head gasket on my current 20r engine. It's the original with 176,000 miles on it so I was thinking of having a full rebuild done on it but after getting some feedback from multiple people I'm going to just buy a remanufactured engine from Napa and put that in. After coming to that decision I started looking into engine swaps and I think I'm going to buy a 22r. There's a lot of confusing info out there and lots of answers that go over my head so I want to ask some questions and try to clarify it for myself. I've read through dozens of threads on multiple forums.
For a 1980 20r, I need to buy a pre-1985 22r. Is this correct? It's a 4 speed manual if that matters.
Is a 20r to 22r swap literally just a swap you can do without any modifications? I buy the remanufactured engine and I can just attach all the parts from my current setup?
I've got exhaust headers on my 20r, will that fit on a 22r? If not, is it a matter of just drilling some holes in the exhaust?
I'm putting in a new water pump, Centerforce clutch, and torque camshaft. Are there other parts you would recommend replacing at the same time?
For replacing the valve cover gasket after putting in the camshaft can I use a gasket I bought for my 20r?
Okay, that's about it for the 20r to 22r questions, at least until I'm confused again. Here's my last question. With a 4 speed manual transmission should I consider the 22re over the 22r? I know that requires more work.
Sorry if this is old news to everyone, but I'm new to the Toyota 4x4 world and don't want to pay for anything until I'm sure. I've already got $2000 into drivetrain, brakes, standard tune-up, tires, etc.
Thanks
Last edited by UmatillaHilux; 03-15-2019 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Update
11-29-2017, 03:32 PM
#2
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I once did a 22r swap into a 20r truck, but it came out of a wrecked donor complete with intake and carb. so I'm not sure if your parts will just bolt on. The only trouble we had was butchered wiring for the alternator and no diagram, so I put in a GM 1 wire alternator. I was looking to retro-fit the 22re equipment into the truck but I sold it before I started. That is a big job, but once again I found another donor truck for everything and I pulled the entire wiring harness, cut out the piece of the exhaust with the O2 sensor, pulled the whole gas tank, everything under the hood and even the dash cluster. If you plan to do this swap I recommend something similar, find a wreck and buy the whole truck for cheap. Sell off the wheels/tires/seats part out whatever you can and send the rest to a crusher (some will even pay you for it). If you find one that threw a rod or hit a tree you at least know it was running when it puked so all of the electronics should be good unless crushed.
As an interesting side note, the donor for the 22R hit a tree with 15K on a new motor and sat for almost 10 years with the right front quarter and bumper jammed into the tire. I yanked that all out with a chain and a pos Subaru, threw a battery in it, 5 gallons of gas and a spritz of starting fluid and drove off with a badly bent frame and the former owner kicking himself for giving it away! All I had to do for it was remove a dead chevy truck, I drove that off as well after twisting two ends of a fusible link together, adding gas, and used the same battery as with the Toyota! Sold it for $400 a couple of days later. Maybe you'll run across the deal of a lifetime if you look around!
As an interesting side note, the donor for the 22R hit a tree with 15K on a new motor and sat for almost 10 years with the right front quarter and bumper jammed into the tire. I yanked that all out with a chain and a pos Subaru, threw a battery in it, 5 gallons of gas and a spritz of starting fluid and drove off with a badly bent frame and the former owner kicking himself for giving it away! All I had to do for it was remove a dead chevy truck, I drove that off as well after twisting two ends of a fusible link together, adding gas, and used the same battery as with the Toyota! Sold it for $400 a couple of days later. Maybe you'll run across the deal of a lifetime if you look around!
11-30-2017, 11:59 AM
#3
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As to the early/late 22R question, there's no reason you have to go with the early 22R unless you're trying to do a hybrid (putting the 20R head on a 22R bottom end). Also, early 22R's are getting harder to find (head especially). Only good reason to go with early is hybrid and/or dual row timing chain with metal backed guides. You can mod a late engine to run the dual row though so.... Oh, and to be able to use parts you already have purchased (check compatability)
Header should swap as long as it doesn't have the EGR tube stuff. It seems the reason for different headers only comes in if you're trying to keep the emissions stuff.
Intake manifold will not swap.
Personal recommendation would be to get a rebuild from somewhere reputable, bolt on your header, purchase an Offenhouser manifold that's intended for a Weber and a Weber carb of your choice (I'd go with the dual plane manifold and 32/36 combo if your build is pretty mild, single plane and a 38 if you want a bit more beans)
Be sure to get genuine Weber (has a W cast in the float cover? Sticker is generally sign of Chinese knockoff.)
Everything should be pretty much bolt up and go.
Header should swap as long as it doesn't have the EGR tube stuff. It seems the reason for different headers only comes in if you're trying to keep the emissions stuff.
Intake manifold will not swap.
Personal recommendation would be to get a rebuild from somewhere reputable, bolt on your header, purchase an Offenhouser manifold that's intended for a Weber and a Weber carb of your choice (I'd go with the dual plane manifold and 32/36 combo if your build is pretty mild, single plane and a 38 if you want a bit more beans)
Be sure to get genuine Weber (has a W cast in the float cover? Sticker is generally sign of Chinese knockoff.)
Everything should be pretty much bolt up and go.
11-30-2017, 12:29 PM
#5
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I guess I should clarify, get a full long block.
Also, it appears that if you want to use things like water and oil pumps off the 20R then you will want an Early engine.
It appears that most parts except the intake are compatible between 20R and early 22R's.
Also, it appears that if you want to use things like water and oil pumps off the 20R then you will want an Early engine.
It appears that most parts except the intake are compatible between 20R and early 22R's.
11-30-2017, 06:25 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I was leaning towards a rebuild initially but the only reputable shop in the area I work during the summers was a hassle to communicate with. I'm towing the pickup back home and I'm sure I can find a place there. I don't have a lot of free time to put into the pickup right now so it sounds like a rebuild is probably the easier and quicker fix.
12-02-2017, 10:48 AM
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