VOTE: HOBART vs. MILLER
 

after doing a good deal of research here and on line, i've decided to "go blue":think: ...rather than "red":pop: .. only because my local suply shop is a miller dealer and didn't want to deal with any customer service issues in the future.:cry2:

:help: i just can not decide which one to get...

• Hobart Handler 140 ($500ish)
• Millermatic DVI ($1,000ish)
• Millermatic 210 ($1,300ish)

:readit: things to consider:

• i haven't welded in over ten years (when i first learned how to weld).. so i this is a "my first welder" situation.
• i currently do not own my home, so adding 220v outlet in the garage is not an easy upgrade for now.
• i plan to weld the following: axle housings (trusses, spring perches, shock mounts, etc.), frame work (custom t-case crossmember, ifs box mount support, gusset spring perches, shock mounts, etc.), tube work (bumpers, tire carrier, rock sliders, roll cage, etc.)

any advise you can offer would be appreciated. if you own or have used one of these let me know what you think it can/can't handle.

:welder:thnx in advance,

~roland :bigok:

hobart is to miller as toyota is to lexus. make your decision based on that...

yeah, i get the link.. (HH to MM is more like scion to toyota) ..but being all from the same parent CO. and so many of the internals on Hobart are Miller brand, i feel safe with HH or MM.

...my question was more of what model :welder:

1. 115v - HH140
2. 115v/230v - MMDVI
3. 230v - MM210
4. ???? - ????

i have a Hobart 180, and love it, compact and powerful
my friend has a Miller 210, i like that one also, for the things that you have planned using it on, i wouldn't get a 110v, just my opinion

...i was just about to edit my post and add the HH180 to the mix!!:cheers:

i found the HH180 for under $600. if i build a 100 foot extension cord, i might have access to a 240v outlet that was used to run a wall unit a/c ...should work ..right?

do you use flux core wire, or do you run shielding gas all the time?:fart:

Thank You For All The Help And Advise!!
 

well it looks like i have narrowed it down some.. i can 4get the DVI and the HH140 (bang4buck ratio), and need to look to the 175+ welders and make an extension cord.

it's down to 2.. 2.5 now.. the HH180 ($570ish) & MM210 ($1300ish), unless there is a reason i should pay more for the MM175 ($680ish)?

HH180 & MM175 - Electrical Service Guide:

-Input Voltage - 230V
-Input at Rated Output - 20A
-Max Recommended Standard Fuse Or Circuit Breaker Rating - Circuit Breaker/Time-Delay- 25A (Normal Operating - 30A)
-Min Input Conductor Size - 14AWG
-Max Recommended Input Conductor Length - 67 Feet
-Min Grounding Conductor Size - 14AWG

MM210 - Electrical Service Guide:

-60 Hz Single Phase
-Input Voltage - 230V
-Input at Rated Output - 28A
-Max Recommended Standard Fuse Rating - Time-Delay 30A (Normal Operating - 40A)
-Min Input Conductor Size 10AWG
-Max Recommended Input Conductor Length - 118 Feet
-Min Grounding Conductor Size - 10AWG

...does this mean that the longest extension i can run between the HH180/MM175 is 67 feet & 118 feet for the MM210?

goat getter, I recently purchased a Miller TIG from; http://www.brwelder.com
they had the best price I could find and with free drop shipping from Miller, it was far cheaper than getting it locally. Placed my order on a sunday and it was delivered on tuesday....

Hey, after talking to my dad (who is a welder/fabricator) he said to look into used welders, like old rentals, if you're not going to be welding alot. Also look into little details like the drive wheels for the spool, if they're metal or plastic. Go with Miller his his opinion, and its better to run a bigger machine lower in its capacity then run a small machine near its max capacity. Also yes those numbers are the length of the power cord you can run...but you'd be better off to use a shorter power cable and longer leads...We use shield gas exclusively at home and at his shop, but flux core is nice as you can use it in more situations without needing to lug a bottle around, I think the flux wire costs more but then you don't need to pay for gas...He said to go to weld shops and just talk to the guys and see what they say...Also look into the ESAB migmaster 203 and 253...here's the 253 for 1325.75 with free shipping: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Esab-MIGMast...QQcmdZViewItem
Also they have the 203 for 1095.75. Good Luck

ive never used flux, just a 25-75 mix of argon/co2

HH180 vs. MM175
 

i understand that it's best to buy as much tool as you can afford from the start, so you will not regret it when you out grow it.. but the MM210 & MMDVI are more than double the cost of the smaller two.:welder:

i think i have to decide between the HobartHandler 180 vs. MillerMatic 175...

• HH=tapped amperage range from 25 - 180 vs. MM=infinite control of 30 - 175.
• HH@$570 vs. MM@$680
• orange vs. blue

:pop: i may be over thinking this, but i need someone to talk me into or out of one of these.. please :cry:

I have the MM 175 and I'm quiet happy with it. I do use the fully variable voltage cont frequently. I have never run flux through mine only wire/gas. I contemplated a roll of flux once till I saw the price. I think its actually cheaper to run wire/gas over flux as long as your not trying to weld in a wind tunnel. When they ask you if you want to buy a cart to go with the welder tell them "NO, thats why Im buying the welder!" I bought mine at a local shop brand new for $600 even.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/100_0472.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/cartcrop.jpg

Yeah I know I need to build a rack for the cords but I just don't have the motivation these days. If there is any one in the local area that needs to do any welding and such just give me a holler I would be glad to help.

First Welding Project: Running Gear
 

Exactly!!:great:

:think: ..i think i'll try and make one from 1/2" electrical conduit (EMT). i should be able to weld on this stuff right?

i liked the tube construction look vs. the flimsey sheet metal ones they sell.

...a welding cart with bumpers, rockslider, and exo-cage here i come!!:welder:

I've had a MM-175 for about 4 years now, it works well for me. I picked it up on one of Millers sales on-line. I think it was under $600 (free shipping) and included a free cart.

As noted the main difference between Miller and Hobart is the adjustments, infinite vs. fixed steps. I sometimes need to make fine adjustments of the wire speed or voltage outside it's normal setting for some welds. I changed the plug on it to one like a window air condtioner uses and have a couple of AC extension cords that I use if needed.

thnx for the link.. i found it for a little bit cheaper on ebay from http://stores.ebay.com/Welding-Supplies-from-IOC .

MM175 for $676@IOC vs. $720@BR.. i went with the HH180 for $567 after all. :bigok:

I have the MM210 and I love it, the reason I went with it is because we had it at school and I just fell in love with it...I've used a Hobart once and I just seem to like the Miller better.

Just my $.02,

Fink:devil:

I say get the MM210 if you can at all run another outlet. We have both a MM135 and a MM210. Great machines! There are some slight differences between the HH and the MM. I think the biggest differences being the drive rolls are plastic on the HH while the MM has aluminum drive rolls. I think the plastic drive rolls on the HH are why they say it can run aluminum wire. They doen't smash the wire like the metal ones do I guess. Oh yah, the MM have a rheostat adjust voltage knob whereas the HH has click adjust.

If you can't run a 210V outlet, I'd opt for the MM135 or the HH140.

Good luck!!!

MM175 is a 220v model

The MM175 along with flux-core wire would probably be a good setup for you...I've used one before but only for one project...so my opinion will still be biased toward the MM210. :welder:

Fink:devil:

Stick with miller I had a hobart mig that was 6 months old that i could not get tips for not even from hobart they no longer supported the model. the 3 welding shops in my area all stock and sell miller and lincoln any thing you need for these they have thats what all the professional welders use. Buy a welder that parts are easy to get so if something breaks you can drive and get it not wait 3 weeks to find out that your 6 month old welder is junk.