Por15
 

Everyone talks about POR15 on here, and I am completely done wasting time with cheap products like rustoleum, and duplicolor so after welding in some new sheet metal on the 4runner I thought I would give it a try on the inside of the metal repair panels. And I want to do the frame and front/rear ends, so I knew I was going to need it.

My local carquest has beat internet prices by a few dollars on everything so far.

Plan was to do two coats of POR15 and then seem seal the welds. that way no moisture will be able to get to the body filler.

First impressions.

Marine clean, holly crap that stuff cleans better than anything I have ever used. Easy on the hands, lungs and everything else. lifts old wax and grunge off really well. Mixed 3 to 1 with hot water in a spray bottle. After spraying on the pannels, wiped it off real good with a clean rag, then reapplied. on the second coat, the rag came up completely clean. Then rinsed with hot water in a spray bottle. Again the rag was completely clean.

Metal ready. It does not take very much of this. Fumes are not bad, it may bother your skin if it get on you. But it is not bad, just wear rubber gloves. I did wear a respirator, but probably did not need it. I wiped it on with a foam brush, and tried to catch some of the run off, it is reusable. It etches the metal really well. And leaves a coating of zinc on the steal. It will powder up, and this needs to be wiped off with a clean rag prior to using the POR15. You can rinse it off with water. This will cause the steel to flash rust. That is ok, as the POR 15 will stick to the surface rust very well. But I ended up just leaving the zinc dust on until ready for the POR15.

POR15. The lid of my can was cealed shut. I gently pried around the top until I was able to get it up far enough to get a razor blade between the lid and the can. Stir POR15 do not shake it. I used a wooden stir stick. Use an old 1/4 cup measuring scoop to dip out the POR15 you will need. This will help to keep it out of the rim of the can. After I had out what I needed I put plastic over the can, put the lid and put it in the fridg until I was able to use what I had out, and then find another container. I did not have a mason jar to put the unused POR15 in, so I ended up taking a quart rustoleum can that only had a little left in it. dumped out the rustoleum, and cleaned the can with xylol. Cleaned it several times until the xylol stayed clean in the can. Under the rim on the inside, everywhere. Then dryed it with the heat gun and set aside to air out. I called POR15 about the sealed can, they said this happens once in awhile, and what I did should be fine. Before you put the lid back on the can put a piece of plastic between the lid and the can, then close it good and tight. Do not put unused POR15 back in the can, so only get out what are going to use in a short period of time.

POR15 goes on really smooth and is self leveling. It does go on thick, but will still need another coat. Again a little bit goes a long way. It is below 50* durring the day here. The lights I have in the garage keep it at about 55-60* as long as they are on. Not much humidity, so it is not drying real fast. I put a coat inside and out of the pannels, let it dry over night, and then ruffed it all up with 320 grit today. Ruffing it up is fast. Wiped it down with a clean rag, and applied another coat. when dry this stuff is flexable, and really hard. Thinner will take it off your skin if you get to it before it is hard.

I plan to body filler over the POR15 which will mean that I have to ruff up with 80grit. It will go down to steal in a few areas. but as a whole should do well, and keep moisture from getting under the filler. If it does at least it will not rust there. It actually seems to stick real well to paint that was ruffed up and feathered back. I will still sand this portion away while sanding the body filler. I will let you know how it turns out.

What you will need.

-Foam brushes, or cheap disposalbe brushes.
-Throw away containers to put the POR15 you are going to use in.
-An extra clean new paint can from lowes. Just in case your lid is sealed like mine was.
-clean rags
-rubber gloves
-respirator
-plastic wrap
-zip lock bags to put waste brushes and such in
-Marine clean
-Metal ready
-POR15
-A good top coat if it going to be in contact with UV light.

So far I like it. It is kind of expensive. But I am tired of redoing things.

POR-15 is some great stuff, I used it in restoring a couple of cars. In a 73 TR6, I had some minor rust in the floor board and wanted to reinforce the floor board. Using POR-15 putty and wire mesh, covered it with POR-15 paint and the floor board became much stronger, having almost no flex in it.

I have used it in many different applications and it has always work as advertised.

Por works great! Not the easiest to get off your hands though, def wear gloves! Haha